HMS Victory - CalderCraft 1:72

Spars said:
I, too, have this kit. I am waiting to relocate to another state before I start. The advantage is that I can start a shop organized to building rather than my existing conglomeration in a crowded bedroom.
Click to expand...
I am currently building in a small tool shed but will be soon building a room specifically for building my ships. Should make things much easier.
 
greg said:
I am currently building in a small tool shed but will be soon building a room specifically for building my ships. Should make things much easier.
Click to expand...
We, my handicapped son and I, will likely have to build a house on property one of my sons owns. That's an opportunity to do things my way...
 
paulv1958 said:
And so it begins:

I purchased this kit back in 2014 ( 8 YEARS AGO) for $1,400 Australian. After finishing 4 previous models ( CC Endeavour, Occre Albatros, Amaiti Stage Coach & Occre Stephensons Rocket) I was hooked on wood kits. I had a windfall and invested in the kit.

I was keeping it till I had enough skill to to do it justice. Well 8 years and 4 more ships later and being 64 this year its time to begin.

I will not go through an unboxing, as this is in an old video here:


I purchased the obligatory ref books along the way as well as the CC Victory Admiralty Paint set. I have used Admiralty paint before and they are great to use.

So without rambing on here bigginith the adventure.

I will be doing both a pictural & Video log of this adventure. ( I'd supply the drinks & popcorn, but given the time that this log is likely to go on for, I will be in serious debt. Gifts of popcorn & beer gladly accepted.

Take care see you soon.
View attachment 287820
Click to expand...
Hallo @paulv1958
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
Enjoy your special day
 
Paul- All the research I could do on the best Victory kit money could buy told me Caldercraft was the ONE! Great choice, & so far your work looks excellent! I'm looking forward to seeing the progress on this beauty! Good Luck!! rick1011
 
paulv1958 said:
Part 2

The bulkheads were cut from their sheets ( Wrist killer due to thickness). and cleaned up ( CNC Tags removed.) There are 18 in total.
View attachment 288441
They were then test fitted to the keel and only minimal sanding of the joint cuts where needed to allow a tight fit. The lower deck (Also 5mm Ply) was then tested fitted and required NO adjustment or sanding. It fitted perfectly. After making sure eveything was square, the parts were removed glued and re added and allowed to set. Bulkhead 1 is left off till the gunport strips are added.
View attachment 288442
View attachment 288443
View attachment 288444
The gun port strips were then inserted through the builkheads above and below the lower deck. These were lightly sanded and the edges tapered slightly. The strips went in easily and only required minimal force and bending to fit. No soaking or pre bending was required.
View attachment 288445
View attachment 288446
The stern supports were then added to bulkhead 18.
View attachment 288447

Bulkhead 1 was then added and the bow planking supports were added
View attachment 288448

At this point the masts( uncut ) & bowsprit was test fitted to ensure alignment.

View attachment 288449
View attachment 288450
The bow upper formers were added and the bowsprit hole was adjusted to allow fit. ( This was warned of in another log.) In this fashion no modification needs to be done later or possible damage adjusting bowsprit entry later.
View attachment 288451
View attachment 288452
View attachment 288453
Finally the upper deck ( minus the middle) was pinned in place to allow the false gun port templates to be aligned correctly. ( A cannon and truck will need to be set up ( as well as adding the thickness of the deck planking) to ensure proper port alignment.
View attachment 288454

This will be in the next entry ( yet to be done or thought about.)

Its going to be a hot weekend, so any work may be delayed due to beer and BBQ's

Video build 2

Take care.
Click to expand...
Did you adjust for the bowsprit problem by widening the hole in bulkhead #1? If so, how did you do it? It doesnt look like any other parts need to be modified but I may not know until I make the adjustment to the bulkhead. Kind thanks for your reply.
 
Yes I did, It did not need much. just a bit of beveling to lower bow area I also checked the rest of the masts hold / supports before & after putting on the lower deck. They also needed slightly adjusting.( Still a firm fit).
 
paulv1958 said:
Yes I did, It did not need much. just a bit of beveling to lower bow area I also checked the rest of the masts hold / supports before & after putting on the lower deck. They also needed slightly adjusting.( Still a firm fit).
Click to expand...
thank you so much, it appears to work now thanks to your heads up and input. I just started my Victory a week ago and am well ahead thanks to your build thread. I am following your build with great interest. thanks for providing it for us.
 
Paul, am about half way done with second planking and am looking ahead to the wales. I know that Victory actual has "anchor stock" type pieces that make up the wales. Am surprised that the Caldercraft kit seems to make no effort in that direction. Did you attempt that with your wales? I want my model to be as accurate as possible but not sure that cutting all those pieces by hand is worth the effort. Appreciate any thoughts. Cheers
 
Adiefenbach said:
Paul, am about half way done with second planking and am looking ahead to the wales. I know that Victory actual has "anchor stock" type pieces that make up the wales. Am surprised that the Caldercraft kit seems to make no effort in that direction. Did you attempt that with your wales? I want my model to be as accurate as possible but not sure that cutting all those pieces by hand is worth the effort. Appreciate any thoughts. Cheers
Click to expand...
For most of the modelers an anchorstock planking is much to complicated or too much work, so therefore the kit producers are usually not preparing it. Also the production would be much more expensive, if they can not use normal stripes.
I think it would be worth the (much more) additional work, but only when you can see the joints somehow.
Will you paint the wales?
 
greg said:
I am currently building in a small tool shed but will be soon building a room specifically for building my ships. Should make things much easier.
Click to expand...
It takes some time moidel building to know what type workshop fits the individual, everything from seating to lighting, to room color and so on. I call this 'scope of project'.
 
Uwek said:
For most of the modelers an anchorstock planking is much to complicated or too much work, so therefore the kit producers are usually not preparing it. Also the production would be much more expensive, if they can not use normal stripes.
I think it would be worth the (much more) additional work, but only when you can see the joints somehow.
Will you paint the wales?
Click to expand...
Uwe, thanks for the feedback. I have found some good patterns to use (one wale set has symmetrical anchor stocks and the other is slightly asymmetrical). I will try to cut a few of each and see how much trouble it is. So far, I have been very happy with how the second planking is going so I am considering painting one side with the Nelson touch and leaving the other side natural/stained. I did that on my Confederacy model and really liked having the two finishes to highlight details. Thanks again for your input.
 
No I did not do the Anchor stock, The whales no a lot of traversing of the Gun ports and even at this scale quite small. To do it in Anchor stock would be to much effort for verly little visual appeal once painted. If I intended to use natural wood, I might have considered it. Also the lower whale is made up of mutliple size plank width. Too do it in Anchor stock would require replacing this with different wood. Funilly there are no images of this method in Longridge or the other books other than the dust cover internal picture of the Anatomy book.

STILL COPPERING.....
 
paulv1958 said:
No I did not do the Anchor stock, The whales no a lot of traversing of the Gun ports and even at this scale quite small. To do it in Anchor stock would be to much effort for verly little visual appeal once painted. If I intended to use natural wood, I might have considered it. Also the lower whale is made up of mutliple size plank width. Too do it in Anchor stock would require replacing this with different wood. Funilly there are no images of this method in Longridge or the other books other than the dust cover internal picture of the Anatomy book.

STILL COPPERING.....
Click to expand...
Paul, thanks for getting back to me. Agree with your assessment. I tried cutting several pieces by hand and think it will get to be too difficult to shape and install. Not gonna bite off more than I can chew. Should be finishing up second planking this weekend then off to gunport lining!! Thanks again for your input. Cheers
 
I am following your build while I build my own Caldercraft Victory, I am finishing the upper gun deck planking and will need to start the gunport linings. I noticed your video and have the Same problem that the inner bulwarks seem to high for the out skin gun ports by as much as 5-6 mm. I saw you “lower” the bulworks gunport to match the out skin gunport and wondering how that worked out for you. I am concerned that lowering the inner bulworks will make the gunport too low for the guns once they go on???? Thoughts?????
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top