A major milestone to get the 2nd planking finished on such a large model well doneFitting of the Quarter Deck internal gun port templates again was tricky as the horizontal AND vertical positioning required an alignment through the ports to allow port linings to be fitted correctly. As it happens a tip from Paul Vickers (thanks Paul) was to use some available 6mm plywood strips which could then be passed through the Quarter Deck to allow a direct, through hull fitting position of the Gun Port templates on both the port and starboard sides (see below).
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As it happens I had to cut a few millimetres off the bottom of these templates to enable them to fit neatly and at the correct height. Once in place, it was an easy process to glue the bulwark faces and fix the templates in place.
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Once the templates were correctly positioned and glued, I could then start fitting the linings to the eight gun ports which have no recess to the hull as these ports have no swinging gun port doors. These are the only ports on the Quarter Deck that have this arrangement. The rest (two forward and four aft), which have the swinging gun doors.
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When completed, I added some additional walnut planks to extend the height of the second planking. As I went, I had to cut out the gun ports for each level, and this took considerable time to do correctly and accurately. A lot of scalpel and sharp knife work!! With the use of the drill to initially mark out the gun port margins, they came out OK, but it takes some time. The final process is to use a fine flat wood file to ensure all surfaces and outer hull planking are aligned and smooth.
Elapsed time: 520 hours
Best Regards,
PeterG
I like the third option. In pulp and paper industries, the mixture can be apply simultaneously witn light Buffer made with Epson Salt and EDTA. Sodium hydroxide increase pH around 9,5 by memory.Many thanks for your support everybody. Always good to hear from you too Paul. I have noted your Kingfisher build and see the standard is as high as ever!! Unbelievably precise and accurate structural framing of the ship. My only comment is that at 126 pages (so far !!), you are well on track to exceed the Vasa page number total!!!
I have now completed the Quarterdeck planking and while I am happy with the kit timber available (Tanganyika), I show an example of it below:
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So, the timber, as sanded, is a brown/orange colour with some variation to a lighter brown. When painted with a matt varnish or burnishing oil, it becomes darker brown/orange. The appearance is quite attractive as a finished timber, but how realistic is it as the sun and sea spray affected deck of HMS Victory? These decks too were scrupulously and religiously scrubbed using holy stone as part of the means of keeping the crew 'busy' and the boatswains of the day were very effective of ensuring this was done. If we look at some of the images of the exposed decking of the actual ship, the deck planking is nearly white or at worst light grey (see below). Any Google search for coloured images of the Victory deck, especially when photographed (obviously in colour), but with good sunlight, shows the upper decks to be almost white/grey with bleaching (see below).
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This must be a problem encountered in numerous models as most kits would supply basswood or other timbers similar in colour to the Tanganyika used here, but be quite unrealistic in the sun- and salt-bleached life of an actual ship.
How then can I make the Tanganyika timber, as used, the bleached colour of the real ship and then be coated with a varnish or finish that retains this colour? There appears to be three methods which I have tried and have experimented on some used offcut timber glued down in the same process as the model decking:
1. Use household bleach. Just wipe on, leave until it bleaches the timber and wipe/wash with water. This is cheap, easily applied, and works effectively, lightening the timber to almost white - Until you coat with a finish, and then the original colour seems to reappear. So, household bleach works, but does not actually 'change' the colour of the underlying wood.
2. Apply oxalic acid. Like household bleach, its easy to obtain, nasty to use as once applied it has to then be neutralised or it will destroy the timber. Application of a vinegar wash neutralises the acid action. Oxalic acid works really well for removing stains and whitening the wood surface to a lighter colour, but, like household bleach, it does not change the actual color of the wood.
3. Use a two-part chemical process. These products can be commercially bought and definately DO change the colour of the timber. Fundamentally the two chemicals used are Parts A and B - Usually Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda), followed about 10 minutes later by Hydrogen Peroxide. The commercial variants of these can be quite expensive and purchased in the volumes of litres/gallons etc, which was way too expensive for one model's decking. So, I opted to purchase the two chemical compounds from local hardware and chemist stores.
The application of the two part mix, definately changes the colour of the timber and while it darkens with oil or varnish, it is still a 'white/grey' finish with the timber grain very much evident. This would appear to be a reasonable application to both model realism, but also to model enhancement practically.
Application of these chemical is something to be done with safety in mind and gloves/mask/PPE/goggles etc are recommended because the chemicals can burn. Precautions ARE necessary, so do a little Google searching before application!!
I will post some images of the final result when the final finish is applied.
Best Regards,
PeterG
I truly hate to present ideas that involve spending money, but I have used holly for deck planking on a number of occasions. I have no idea if it is readily available in Oz, but maybe something to consider for the future.How then can I make the Tanganyika timber, as used, the bleached colour of the real ship and then be coated with a varnish or finish that retains this colour?
Thanks you so Much for comment. Australia is far, too far to go with my wife with electric wheelchair. But I have my imagination....Thank you both AllanKP69 and Fish & Chip.
From Fish and Chip's comments, yes, I was aware of the alternative of combining the Sodium Hydroxide and Hydrogen Peroxide and applying simultaneously. I did try this, but what I found was that, although it did bleach the timber, it required a few (4-5) applications before the timber lightened in colour to the necessary degree. By using the Parts A/B approach, this can also be done with multiple applications, but you only have to add the Hydrogen Peroxide in additional brushing/wiping once the caustic soda has been applied. This seemed to give me better control and used less material to lighten the timber to the degree required. Also, by applying the Sodium Hydroxide once only and letting it sit for 8-10 minutes, it appears to soak in to the wood to a deeper depth so sanding does not get down to the older colour level of unbleached timber.
** For your interest Fish and Chip, here in New South Wales, Australia, we have a train called the "Fish and Chips" which runs each evening as a commuter train from central Sydney to carry office workers to the Blue Mountains, about 40 km west of Sydney.
Allan, thank you too. Your deckwork is exacting and looks excellent. You have obviously found that the best solution is to use an alternative timber for lighter coloured decking planks. I would have difficulty obtaining holly (in any case it is too late for this build), but it appears to have served your purpose beautifully. The holly appearance looks to be slightly yellow more so that white/grey as is typical of salt and sea-affected oak as per the planking on Victory (not to mention the hollystoning that would have been applied - no pun intended), but it nevertheless looks lovely and clean. Castello is not a timber I am at all familiar with, but the contrast with the holly is striking.
Regards,
PeterG