Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

I have decided to add (not built yet) a sail room for the lower deck - and I still need to add the previously fabricated pillars for the upper deck beams - so everything is still loose fit. In fact, I have the deck in five sections as you can see below:
Well... I must admit your persistence and skills while building The Kings and the Fisher. ;) I don't have enough words. You know, English is not my native language, but... I am thrilled with the results, mon ami.

On another hand, you kinda revealed a secret! Cutting the hull in 5 pieces (five separate decks), WOW you will be the first for sure! ;););)
 
Incredible! Impeccable!!

I hope and pray it doesn't become Impossible, once you build the lower deck walls, to "squeeze" "finagle" or otherwise tease that superb deck into place!!

Your tolerances and beautiful joinery (the split-level intersecting knees being a prime example) never cease to AMAZE me!

Thanks for your continued sharing of this awesome build!!
 
It's time that my summer project is finished and can go back to my model. Your pictures are as allway frustrating (I wish I am in the same stage on my model) and motivating (it's time to make progress on my model).
I would add a frame around the model as seen mostly by french model shipyards and work now in place on the deck.
 
Hello friends!

After nearly a month of work (felt longer), the upper deck framing is just about complete:

View attachment 457344

Forward:

View attachment 457345

Midship:

View attachment 457346

Aft:

View attachment 457347

As you can see, I have only added ledges (the thin athwartships pieces) to the most starboard portion of the deck (a few odds and ends still need to be added here). I suspect I'll add more ledges near the center of the ship, but I am holding off for now.

I find myself in a constant battle between wanting to build a representative ship model while still allowing for sightlines into the lower levels (holster that Japanese saw, Johan ROTF).

A few detailed images:

View attachment 457350

The lodging knees change direction near the center of the ship, so the upper deck (like the lower deck) features a 'bi-level' knee:

View attachment 457348

And I do have hanging knees, but they are difficult to photograph (actually pretty easy to see on the model):

View attachment 457349

I have decided to add (not built yet) a sail room for the lower deck - and I still need to add the previously fabricated pillars for the upper deck beams - so everything is still loose fit. In fact, I have the deck in five sections as you can see below:

View attachment 457351

This has been a learning curve item. It is now nearly impossible to get these sections into place. The tolerances are razor thin, and the tumblehome of the hull is not my friend. I have puzzled out a way to get these sections in and out of the ship, but I know that once I get the walls/rooms placed on the lower deck it will no longer be possible to keep these sections intact as you see them here :(. It would seem this deck needed to be built in place (and glued in place) during fabrication which runs counter to my adopted 'best practices.' Or maybe not???

A parting shot of the hanging knees:

View attachment 457352

You are kind to stop by!
Good morning Paul. Impeccable work. To me you have achieved the impossible…..hopefully this achievement remains when you fit the rooms and walls on the lower deck. How you get the precision to build these deck structures off the ship is incomprehensible. As we have come to expect the skill and craftsmanship of the ledges, lodging knees, hanging knees, bi- level knees, beams etc etc is legendary. Cheers Grant
 
Hello friends!

After nearly a month of work (felt longer), the upper deck framing is just about complete:

View attachment 457344

Forward:

View attachment 457345

Midship:

View attachment 457346

Aft:

View attachment 457347

As you can see, I have only added ledges (the thin athwartships pieces) to the most starboard portion of the deck (a few odds and ends still need to be added here). I suspect I'll add more ledges near the center of the ship, but I am holding off for now.

I find myself in a constant battle between wanting to build a representative ship model while still allowing for sightlines into the lower levels (holster that Japanese saw, Johan ROTF).

A few detailed images:

View attachment 457350

The lodging knees change direction near the center of the ship, so the upper deck (like the lower deck) features a 'bi-level' knee:

View attachment 457348

And I do have hanging knees, but they are difficult to photograph (actually pretty easy to see on the model):

View attachment 457349

I have decided to add (not built yet) a sail room for the lower deck - and I still need to add the previously fabricated pillars for the upper deck beams - so everything is still loose fit. In fact, I have the deck in five sections as you can see below:

View attachment 457351

This has been a learning curve item. It is now nearly impossible to get these sections into place. The tolerances are razor thin, and the tumblehome of the hull is not my friend. I have puzzled out a way to get these sections in and out of the ship, but I know that once I get the walls/rooms placed on the lower deck it will no longer be possible to keep these sections intact as you see them here :(. It would seem this deck needed to be built in place (and glued in place) during fabrication which runs counter to my adopted 'best practices.' Or maybe not???

A parting shot of the hanging knees:

View attachment 457352

You are kind to stop by!
That upper deck framing looks very nice, Paul. And you are my man with building that framing partly outside the model. Then you are sure that the shape is correct and without tension.
And the more open port side is a good approach to have a view to the inside construction. A HCS is not always necessary. ;)
The picture with a view of the jig building plate with all the rooms and walls yet to be installed looks familiar to me. Installation will be done in no time.
Regards, Peter
 
I have puzzled out a way to get these sections in and out of the ship, but I know that once I get the walls/rooms placed on the lower deck it will no longer be possible to keep these sections intact as you see them here :(.
Beautiful work as always, Paul.
With respect to you build sequence issue; the way I perceive it, you would have to start with the assembly of the second and fourth deck section, in order to allow the longitudinal deck members of the other deck section to fall in their respective notches in the transverse deckbeams. That means that all longitudinal members to match with these notcheds have to be attached to the deck sections 1, 3 and 5. Another issue might be that you're having a rigid hull, not much to do about that, but you now also have "rigid" or "fixed" deck sections, leaving no room to accommodate the inevitable tolerance build-up. This can be overcome to alternately have fixed- and soft deck sections, which means you have some trim allowance, which still allows you to build the dck in sections and simultaneously giving you some room to play with.
In all this is a nice little brain teaser... And that's without taking into account the below deck's interior parts.
My preference would be to start with sections 1 and 5, because those sections have the added bow- and stern complexity to deal with plus, I'm guessing here, you have the best accessibility. From there on either install section 3, followed by installing the (soft) sections 2 and 4, or have install sections 2 and 4 first and use section 3 as closing piece. Still, this would require "some" planning and rework effort, plus the additional swear jars.
 
Well let's see, outside of the almost perfect millwork, joinery, and surface finish on your work Paul, I just love the offset 'bi-level' knees. You do have quite a bit of pieces stacked next to her hull; I can't imagine you would ever build yourself out of room to install those bits. I also love your new word at least to me 'tumblehome',
a great one-word description for bottleneck. Ha, I love it. Happy 4th my friend.
Well, bottleneck is a great description of the challenge Daniel! In fact, I feel like this has become a ship-in-a-bottle dilemma. Not entirely sure how I got to this place.

Remarkable Paul. Careful you don't glue yourself into a corner :eek:
Might be too late Ron :rolleyes:...
 
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Well... I must admit your persistence and skills while building The Kings and the Fisher. ;) I don't have enough words. You know, English is not my native language, but... I am thrilled with the results, mon ami.

On another hand, you kinda revealed a secret! Cutting the hull in 5 pieces (five separate decks), WOW you will be the first for sure! ;););)
That's a great idea! The first five-section 'section model'! And I'd be the founding member of the QCSA (quad cut saw association)!

Incredible! Impeccable!!

I hope and pray it doesn't become Impossible, once you build the lower deck walls, to "squeeze" "finagle" or otherwise tease that superb deck into place!!

Your tolerances and beautiful joinery (the split-level intersecting knees being a prime example) never cease to AMAZE me!

Thanks for your continued sharing of this awesome build!!
You are very kind Brad. There will almost certainly need to be some de-construction prior to finagling...

It's time that my summer project is finished and can go back to my model. Your pictures are as allway frustrating (I wish I am in the same stage on my model) and motivating (it's time to make progress on my model).
I would add a frame around the model as seen mostly by french model shipyards and work now in place on the deck.
My pictures frustrate me too - but probably for a different reason... Nothing worse than a macro image to show a man his flaws ROTF.

I'll be happy to see your shipyard progress again soon!

Good morning Paul. Impeccable work. To me you have achieved the impossible…..hopefully this achievement remains when you fit the rooms and walls on the lower deck. How you get the precision to build these deck structures off the ship is incomprehensible. As we have come to expect the skill and craftsmanship of the ledges, lodging knees, hanging knees, bi- level knees, beams etc etc is legendary. Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant. Impossible might have been achieved here - but it is in my future as well :(. Stay tuned...
 
Witaj
Drogi Pawle praca świetna kolana rewelacja, wszystko pięknie spasowane podziwiam. Pozdrawiam Mirek
Thanks Mirek! You are always very kind.

It looks so good, I don't need birthday presents, these pictures are enough.
I do truly hope you received better birthday presents than this ROTF.

That upper deck framing looks very nice, Paul. And you are my man with building that framing partly outside the model. Then you are sure that the shape is correct and without tension.
And the more open port side is a good approach to have a view to the inside construction. A HCS is not always necessary. ;)
The picture with a view of the jig building plate with all the rooms and walls yet to be installed looks familiar to me. Installation will be done in no time.
Regards, Peter
Thank you for these encouraging words, Peter. I need to attend your school of 'proper workflow' however...

The words "absolutely stunning" and "beautiful model" are the words I'm going to use, but somehow, they don't seem sufficient to describe your work. I believe that any museum would love to have models of the construction level you are displaying !
No museums are calling ROTF... But I will be happy to display this model in my home one day!

Very good work - precise accurate and I can recognize, that once we will see also from you a "big cut"
I am a big fan of your work :cool:
Thank you kindly, Uwe. Honestly, I'm just a little kid playing on your playground. It is a privilege to see your work (along with the inspiring work of so many others).
 
Beautiful work as always, Paul.
With respect to you build sequence issue; the way I perceive it, you would have to start with the assembly of the second and fourth deck section, in order to allow the longitudinal deck members of the other deck section to fall in their respective notches in the transverse deckbeams. That means that all longitudinal members to match with these notcheds have to be attached to the deck sections 1, 3 and 5. Another issue might be that you're having a rigid hull, not much to do about that, but you now also have "rigid" or "fixed" deck sections, leaving no room to accommodate the inevitable tolerance build-up. This can be overcome to alternately have fixed- and soft deck sections, which means you have some trim allowance, which still allows you to build the dck in sections and simultaneously giving you some room to play with.
In all this is a nice little brain teaser... And that's without taking into account the below deck's interior parts.
My preference would be to start with sections 1 and 5, because those sections have the added bow- and stern complexity to deal with plus, I'm guessing here, you have the best accessibility. From there on either install section 3, followed by installing the (soft) sections 2 and 4, or have install sections 2 and 4 first and use section 3 as closing piece. Still, this would require "some" planning and rework effort, plus the additional swear jars.
Thanks for helping me think this through, Johan. I HAVE to start with sections 1 and 5 as the only way they can get into the hull is near the center of the ship and then slid into place. And yes, I can move the carlings around...

But your suggestion to create soft sections has me thinking...
 
All I can say is WOW
Hi Geoff, I thank you very much for the compliment!

I think I know what I'll be doing the next weeks. I will read through Your build log as well. From what I saw until now You have enough Material to start a book ;)
ROTF ROTF ROTF Yup. My build logs tend to run on and on. I get paid by the page... ROTF

I hope you enjoy the report - you will run across any number of similarities with your current project.
 
Hello friends!

After nearly a month of work (felt longer), the upper deck framing is just about complete:

View attachment 457344

Forward:

View attachment 457345

Midship:

View attachment 457346

Aft:

View attachment 457347

As you can see, I have only added ledges (the thin athwartships pieces) to the most starboard portion of the deck (a few odds and ends still need to be added here). I suspect I'll add more ledges near the center of the ship, but I am holding off for now.

I find myself in a constant battle between wanting to build a representative ship model while still allowing for sightlines into the lower levels (holster that Japanese saw, Johan ROTF).

A few detailed images:

View attachment 457350

The lodging knees change direction near the center of the ship, so the upper deck (like the lower deck) features a 'bi-level' knee:

View attachment 457348

And I do have hanging knees, but they are difficult to photograph (actually pretty easy to see on the model):

View attachment 457349

I have decided to add (not built yet) a sail room for the lower deck - and I still need to add the previously fabricated pillars for the upper deck beams - so everything is still loose fit. In fact, I have the deck in five sections as you can see below:

View attachment 457351

This has been a learning curve item. It is now nearly impossible to get these sections into place. The tolerances are razor thin, and the tumblehome of the hull is not my friend. I have puzzled out a way to get these sections in and out of the ship, but I know that once I get the walls/rooms placed on the lower deck it will no longer be possible to keep these sections intact as you see them here :(. It would seem this deck needed to be built in place (and glued in place) during fabrication which runs counter to my adopted 'best practices.' Or maybe not???

A parting shot of the hanging knees:

View attachment 457352

You are kind to stop by!
the upper deck framing looks beautiful, well done my friend
 
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