Paper is just really thin wood...Hi Paul, please don't do the paper thingy!! Even your painting are not as complex and exact as the contemporary ones they tell the story .. and much more beautiful as paper on the ship .. imo
cheers
Dirk
Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF
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Paul, as always, truly amazing work !
Thank you for sharing !!!
Thank you for sharing !!!
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WONDEROUS!!!! Thank you, Paul!
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Keep the blue - my favorite colorAttention now turned in earnest to the exterior hull. A reminder that half of the ship model will remain in frames and half will show the details seen on a finished hull.
I've mentioned on another build report that I have taken several swings at fabricating channels (the horizontal boards on the hull that help the shrouds clear the side of the ship and rails above them). I'm getting closer but my report on that progress will be in a future post.
For now, I am preparing the elements that will be applied to the hull like moldings, fenders, a chesstree, entry steps, port covers, etc. I want to get as much of this work completed ahead of time as possible so I won't damage the painted frieze still to be attempted. This report will address the entry steps.
There are several approaches that could be used here. I believe it would be possible to make a scraper with the proper profile and the steps could be made from a single piece of wood; this is the approach recommended in TFFM. I also think the steps could be profiled using a mill fitted with a variety of cutting heads in succession (Ricci's solution working at 1:36 @Giampy65). Of course, both of these approaches only profile the outward face of the steps and the sides of the steps would need to be cut in with chisels and files - doable at 1:48, but...
I chose to use a layered approach as depicted in this photo essay...
The two layers that will form the upper tread:
View attachment 487089
View attachment 487090
A thickness sander customizes the height of the center section of the step:
View attachment 487091
And then a mill was used to profile that center section (mill head is rounded):
View attachment 487092
Using an escapement file to continue the rounded portion to the sides of the step:
View attachment 487093
Finally, a base layer is fabricated, and all the parts are glued together:
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Some of these steps were then installed on the hull (the top step is only sitting there loosely). A final upper step is pending:
View attachment 487097
View attachment 487098
Yes, I am having some second thoughts about the blue
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Totally wrong about the colored bands, Paul. I definitely would have added them! Great work on the ornamental painting! Here's where you should think about whether to make perfect the enemy of wonderful.Onward we go. Before anyone could talk me out of adding more color to my model - I went ahead and added more color to my model.
The first step was to sand down the part to be painted, and then tape off the region between the (future) drift rail and planksheer (the very top section). This will be tinted red (I am using water-based inks rather than paint):
View attachment 487434
Here is that red band, fore and aft:
View attachment 487435
View attachment 487436
There will be a rail (molding) at the bottom edge of the red (the drift rail).
And now the blue band that runs between the waist rail and the drift rail:
View attachment 487437
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View attachment 487438
TFFM provides a generic pattern for the frieze that is to be painted between the waist rail and the drift rail:
View attachment 487440
I will not be including the painted panels above the swirly part. Something is amiss and the sheer rail (and the channels) runs right in the middle of the place where the panels go rather than slightly below center. I am off by about 1.5 mm but in a 6 mm band this is a deal breaker.
Swirls...
View attachment 487441
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These swirly things look OK the further away you are from the ship
View attachment 487445
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View attachment 487447
I may try to tune these up later, but right now I am exhausted. The level of concentration necessary just to get this far has left me spent. I'll see what the frieze looks like in the morning and decide if it needs to be worked on some more.
I'm not much of a drinker, but a glass of white burgundy has randomly appeared next to my left hand. Maybe just a sip...
Yes, I know YOU wouldn't have added these colored bands
Wonderful explanations! Once again I learned some new tricks! Thank You!
Paul,
Do you or any of your build followers know when the yards started cutting slots in the channels and capping the edge rather than boring holes? The only thing I could find was the change started in 1771 in Goodwins work, but he does not cite his source.
Thanks
Allan
Do you or any of your build followers know when the yards started cutting slots in the channels and capping the edge rather than boring holes? The only thing I could find was the change started in 1771 in Goodwins work, but he does not cite his source.
Thanks
Allan
Thank you kindly, Herman!
Much appreciated!
Well, I'm using this set so I must like them more than the previous versions
.Thank you, Jeff!
Thanks, Chuck!
You are most welcome Oliver. Every day we learn something is a good day!
Thank you very much! The swirly things are growing on me.
Hi Allan,
Of course, I haven't the foggiest - I'm more of a 'doer' than a 'knower'. I checked Lees and Harland and both are silent. Antscherl provides the form without defense (though in the next paragraph he discusses the channel standards at some length).
Hopefully one of our colleagues will have some information. In most cases I would just ask you
.
WHAT??? You forgot you had a log with 3,254 posts?
Rest assured we (your followers) haven't forgotten. Your work is truly inspirational and you UNFORGETTABLE log is my first port of call every time I log in.
DittoIn most cases I would just ask you
Good morning Paul. Every time I react to your posts with a “love” or “wow” emoji. It is time for just a “like”…… come on you can do this
. I think the other guys said it all. Cheers Grant
Your painting is very good. absolutely beautiful work, as always.
Well that got a BFS from me this morning. THANK YOU for the compliment. Most of this kind of thing matters not one whit to 99% of us but the research and such is one of the things that keeps my old mind working.
Allan
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I really like the expressive colors you used. It's not exactly the same, but I've seen some clips where they restore old paintings. It's amazing to see how vibrant the colors were, as used by the old masters.
Some time ago my PIC and I encountered a replica of the statenjacht Utrecht. The reds and blues are much more of toned down variants, but it's a replica and not the real thing.
Some time ago my PIC and I encountered a replica of the statenjacht Utrecht. The reds and blues are much more of toned down variants, but it's a replica and not the real thing.
This is a very nice post, Ian. My thanks!
Thanks, Grant!Ditto
Good morning Paul. Every time I react to your posts with a “love” or “wow” emoji. It is time for just a “like”…… come on you can do this
Much appreciated, Adi!
Well, it is certainly true that color appreciation (or the opposite) is in the eyes of the beholder. At this point it really is what it is. The important part is I don't look at it and want to cry...
PaulOnward we go. Before anyone could talk me out of adding more color to my model - I went ahead and added more color to my model
The first step was to sand down the part to be painted, and then tape off the region between the (future) drift rail and planksheer (the very top section). This will be tinted red (I am using water-based inks rather than paint):
View attachment 487434
Here is that red band, fore and aft:
View attachment 487435
View attachment 487436
There will be a rail (molding) at the bottom edge of the red (the drift rail).
And now the blue band that runs between the waist rail and the drift rail:
View attachment 487437
View attachment 487439
View attachment 487438
TFFM provides a generic pattern for the frieze that is to be painted between the waist rail and the drift rail:
View attachment 487440
I will not be including the painted panels above the swirly part. Something is amiss and the sheer rail (and the channels) runs right in the middle of the place where the panels go rather than slightly below center. I am off by about 1.5 mm but in a 6 mm band this is a deal breaker.
Swirls...
View attachment 487441
View attachment 487444
View attachment 487443
View attachment 487442
These swirly things look OK the further away you are from the ship
View attachment 487445
View attachment 487446
View attachment 487447
I may try to tune these up later, but right now I am exhausted. The level of concentration necessary just to get this far has left me spent. I'll see what the frieze looks like in the morning and decide if it needs to be worked on some more.
I'm not much of a drinker, but a glass of white burgundy has randomly appeared next to my left hand. Maybe just a sip...
Yes, I know YOU wouldn't have added these colored bands
Awesome workmanship-you are an inspiration ! Could you tell me the brand name and color name/numbers for the blue and red inks you use on Kingfisher ? After sanding, do you primer prep the wood before applying the stain ? Hand brush or spray ? one layer or built-up layers ?
Thanks.
Alex Rosas
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Paul, life has finally reached equilibrium after being away for a bit. I had no idea how long it's been until I opened your Kingfisher thread again and found that I had 70 pages of posts to catch up on!!! Of course, all of it is great reading. I love your progress; frankly, it's no surprise. You've been flattening the learning curve on scratch building with no obvious quality hit to the finished product.A small but significant update...
The lower deck has been placed:
View attachment 442312
View attachment 442321
You will notice that I have made several (potentially controversial) design choices. I did not include any ledges on this deck level (and I also did not cut out the tabled joints on the carlings that would ordinarily house/receive those ledges). I may regret these decisions but now those of you building POF models can at least see what this looks like.
Another design decision you may not agree with...I included a waterway on both sides of the ship (the finished side with knees, but also on the unfinished side without knees). Why did I do it this way? Hiding bad fitting beams on the unfinished side.
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Some hard to see hanging knees:
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And an iron knee in association with the beam arm:
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Looking fore and aft:
View attachment 442323
View attachment 442322
I didn't notice the gap between the waterway and the ceiling planks on the model - but I surely see it in these photos! Yikes! In retrospect I think it would have been better to add the lowest strake AFTER the waterway was installed. Always learning...
Will the do-overs never end
The kit does include upper deck beams as a three-layered laminated affair. I'm going to build up a few of these and see if I want to use them or whether I need to create scratch beams. And I also need to figure out the bitts...
Thanks for the visit!
Super work! It will take me a little time to become current, but time well spent. I'm sure I will learn quite a bit on the journey.
Much appreciated, Ken. I hope you enjoy catching up!