Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

My experience with tissue paper lining has been good. On the plus side it does create a very fine and precise line between the timbers. Unlike tinted glue it remains sharp even if the timber joinery is less than perfect. I have limited it's use to the larger centerline timbers (I think you are using it between planks as well?) - but I am happy when I get to use it.

On the negative side it does significantly weaken the joint. I would not recommend it for places that will be under tension - though I suppose those should be few and far between on a well-constructed (fitted) model.

Several best practices for anyone interested: you must glue both wood surfaces with a thin smear of glue and then place the tissue paper in place under some pretty intense clamping pressure. This means you must allow for the thickness of the glue as well as the thickness of the tissue paper in your joinery. It all adds up when you are building complex constructions and if you don't account for the thickness of these materials there will be a noticeable amount of 'size creep'...
Thanks for explaining, Paul. I was already looking for something like that for the dek of my model. (And I like working with tissue[paper] ;) )
Regards, Peter
 
Thank you, friends, for the likes!

Exceptionally sharp work Paul. I did a tutorial on caulking with black tissue about 10 or 11 years ago on the other forum, probably deleted the same time as my membershipROTF
Thanks Nigel! I would love to sit with you for a month (or three) and learn...

Looking forward to it. Looks like a beautiful project.
Welcome! Your recent faux hinge work has inspired me to think along those same lines!

It‘s looking perfect, Paul. If you want to paint the model or install a decal, it is perhaps not necessary, to install treenails.
Hallo Christian! Yes, I'm not sure if I will paint the lower counter or not. Ricci did some carvings, but I lack his skill (and his scale).

Witaj
Wygląda pięknie , poezja. Pozdrawiam Mirek
Much appreciated my friend!

Very nice result, Paul.
How did you get on with the tissue paper? I think it's the most beautiful to work with and the result can't be compared with anything else.
Thanks Tobias!

Great hint with the tissue paper,
I'm not the originator of this idea - I saw it somewhere and thought it produced a very clean result.

Well explained, thank you, mon ami!
You bet Jimsky! You know I'm a teacher at heart, but I rarely think I have anything to share on this forum...

You might want to consider purchasing them already made? I know model expo has some.
Good tip. I have looked around and everything I find is 'standardized' and if I can make some custom hinges it will look better. Of course, that means I need to do something I've never done before...

Thanks for explaining, Paul. I was already looking for something like that for the dek of my model. (And I like working with tissue[paper] ;) )
Regards, Peter
Thanks for your many words of encouragement during this build Peter!

Hi Paul,

Although late to the party a happy 2024 for ypu and your family and all other readers ofcourse.

The progress on your build is extreme to keep in mind you are only 1 year working on her. The quality is top notch as always. Keep those beautiful pictures comming.
All the best to you and the Mrs., Maarten! I'm now about 3 1/2 years into this new hobby and your friendship and guidance has been a true blessing!
 
Hi Paul, I'm always playing catch up with your build. Happy New Year my friend, 11,000 trenails... is mind blowing! The tissue paper application is a new one to me but wow, great idea when used in the appropriate locations. I'm looking forward to another year of following your build or builds.
 
Hello Friends,

This weekend I was able to install the helm port (rudder passes through it), planked the lower counter, and rough fabricated the rudder itself. But pictures tell the story...

Helm port and lower counter planking (still need to add trenails):

View attachment 419530

View attachment 419531

The rudder components have tissue paper to represent a tar/felt lining...

View attachment 419532

Here you can see the rudder before any tapering:

View attachment 419533

The rudder is then shaped on three of the four surfaces. It is tapered along its length to match the taper on the sternpost:

View attachment 419536

And the part of the rudder that faces the sternpost is beveled to allow for its free movement:

View attachment 419537

View attachment 419535

View attachment 419534

Next up: I need to figure out how to make realistic looking gudgeons and pintles (rudder hinges).
Beautiful work, I wish I had your patience!
 
Hello Friends!

Well, the rudder is on hold while I wait for ordered materials to arrive...

Nevertheless, I am ecstatic to work on something other than planking and treenails! Indeed, there are many options open to me: exterior trim details, knee of the head and headworks, standalone projects like guns or capstans, etc. But the ship's interior was calling out to me the loudest - and that begins at the bottom of the boat...

Here is an overall view of the recent additions:

IMG_0233.JPG

Looking astern I have added the mizenmast step, the aft crutch, a pair of sleepers, and the wing transom knees (detailed images to follow):

IMG_0236.JPG

A wing transom knee (the horizontal piece in the corner) and portside sleeper:

IMG_0239.JPG

Mizenmast step:

IMG_0240.JPG

Aft crutch (sorry for the depth of field problem):

IMG_0242.JPG

The nails/bolts are 0.5 mm copper wire (about 1 inch at scale). I will leave them unburnished for now and see what happens.

Next up, the mainmast step. This is an interesting affair as it allowed for adjustment to the rake of the mast by working the fore and aft wedges which ride up against a (roughly) 2-inch iron bar.

This whole thing is a detail only you will know about in time as this entire assembly will be effectively hidden from view (sigh...):

IMG_0243.JPG

IMG_0245.JPG

IMG_0247.JPG

And at the bow we find the foremast step (not adjustable on swan class ships) and upper and lower breast hooks:

IMG_0250.JPG

IMG_0252.JPG

Some of these recent additions are kit parts (the ones that are made up in layers), but others were scratch built. In truth the scratch-built parts were easier to install because I was able to use cardstock to customize their fabrication. Of course, you know there was a lot of fitting/adjusting/fitting/adjusting to get these complex shapes to fit into something with a complex shape...


Bonus: a random picture of a cool window header that will form the light (window) associated with the quarter badge - I include it here because it, too, will eventually be hidden from view...

IMG_0254.JPG

I had tons of fun fabricating these fiddly bits! And I thank you very much for stopping by!
 
Hello Friends!

Well, the rudder is on hold while I wait for ordered materials to arrive...

Nevertheless, I am ecstatic to work on something other than planking and treenails! Indeed, there are many options open to me: exterior trim details, knee of the head and headworks, standalone projects like guns or capstans, etc. But the ship's interior was calling out to me the loudest - and that begins at the bottom of the boat...

Here is an overall view of the recent additions:

View attachment 421914

Looking astern I have added the mizenmast step, the aft crutch, a pair of sleepers, and the wing transom knees (detailed images to follow):

View attachment 421915

A wing transom knee (the horizontal piece in the corner) and portside sleeper:

View attachment 421916

Mizenmast step:

View attachment 421917

Aft crutch (sorry for the depth of field problem):

View attachment 421918

The nails/bolts are 0.5 mm copper wire (about 1 inch at scale). I will leave them unburnished for now and see what happens.

Next up, the mainmast step. This is an interesting affair as it allowed for adjustment to the rake of the mast by working the fore and aft wedges which ride up against a (roughly) 2-inch iron bar.

This whole thing is a detail only you will know about in time as this entire assembly will be effectively hidden from view (sigh...):

View attachment 421919

View attachment 421920

View attachment 421921

And at the bow we find the foremast step (not adjustable on swan class ships) and upper and lower breast hooks:

View attachment 421922

View attachment 421923

Some of these recent additions are kit parts (the ones that are made up in layers), but others were scratch built. In truth the scratch-built parts were easier to install because I was able to use cardstock to customize their fabrication. Of course, you know there was a lot of fitting/adjusting/fitting/adjusting to get these complex shapes to fit into something with a complex shape...


Bonus: a random picture of a cool window header that will form the light (window) associated with the quarter badge - I include it here because it, too, will eventually be hidden from view...

View attachment 421924

I had tons of fun fabricating these fiddly bits! And I thank you very much for stopping by!
Very nice parts, nicely executed, Paul. You can see that a lot of care has been put into it.
Regards, Peter
 
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