Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

Hello Friends!

Well, the rudder is on hold while I wait for ordered materials to arrive...

Nevertheless, I am ecstatic to work on something other than planking and treenails! Indeed, there are many options open to me: exterior trim details, knee of the head and headworks, standalone projects like guns or capstans, etc. But the ship's interior was calling out to me the loudest - and that begins at the bottom of the boat...

Here is an overall view of the recent additions:

View attachment 421914

Looking astern I have added the mizenmast step, the aft crutch, a pair of sleepers, and the wing transom knees (detailed images to follow):

View attachment 421915

A wing transom knee (the horizontal piece in the corner) and portside sleeper:

View attachment 421916

Mizenmast step:

View attachment 421917

Aft crutch (sorry for the depth of field problem):

View attachment 421918

The nails/bolts are 0.5 mm copper wire (about 1 inch at scale). I will leave them unburnished for now and see what happens.

Next up, the mainmast step. This is an interesting affair as it allowed for adjustment to the rake of the mast by working the fore and aft wedges which ride up against a (roughly) 2-inch iron bar.

This whole thing is a detail only you will know about in time as this entire assembly will be effectively hidden from view (sigh...):

View attachment 421919

View attachment 421920

View attachment 421921

And at the bow we find the foremast step (not adjustable on swan class ships) and upper and lower breast hooks:

View attachment 421922

View attachment 421923

Some of these recent additions are kit parts (the ones that are made up in layers), but others were scratch built. In truth the scratch-built parts were easier to install because I was able to use cardstock to customize their fabrication. Of course, you know there was a lot of fitting/adjusting/fitting/adjusting to get these complex shapes to fit into something with a complex shape...


Bonus: a random picture of a cool window header that will form the light (window) associated with the quarter badge - I include it here because it, too, will eventually be hidden from view...

View attachment 421924

I had tons of fun fabricating these fiddly bits! And I thank you very much for stopping by!
Stunning!
 
Thanks for all the likes you guys!

And thank you for the favorable postings: Christian, Geoff, Peter, Jeff, Daniel, Jeff, Paul, Mark, and Jim! I very much enjoyed fabricating these pieces, so I'm delighted that you like them as well.

The kit has greatly simplified the deck structures of this ship so I'm presently trying my hand at some custom work - maybe you will get to see it (or maybe not ROTF).
 
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Hello Friends!

Well, the rudder is on hold while I wait for ordered materials to arrive...

Nevertheless, I am ecstatic to work on something other than planking and treenails! Indeed, there are many options open to me: exterior trim details, knee of the head and headworks, standalone projects like guns or capstans, etc. But the ship's interior was calling out to me the loudest - and that begins at the bottom of the boat...

Here is an overall view of the recent additions:

View attachment 421914

Looking astern I have added the mizenmast step, the aft crutch, a pair of sleepers, and the wing transom knees (detailed images to follow):

View attachment 421915

A wing transom knee (the horizontal piece in the corner) and portside sleeper:

View attachment 421916

Mizenmast step:

View attachment 421917

Aft crutch (sorry for the depth of field problem):

View attachment 421918

The nails/bolts are 0.5 mm copper wire (about 1 inch at scale). I will leave them unburnished for now and see what happens.

Next up, the mainmast step. This is an interesting affair as it allowed for adjustment to the rake of the mast by working the fore and aft wedges which ride up against a (roughly) 2-inch iron bar.

This whole thing is a detail only you will know about in time as this entire assembly will be effectively hidden from view (sigh...):

View attachment 421919

View attachment 421920

View attachment 421921

And at the bow we find the foremast step (not adjustable on swan class ships) and upper and lower breast hooks:

View attachment 421922

View attachment 421923

Some of these recent additions are kit parts (the ones that are made up in layers), but others were scratch built. In truth the scratch-built parts were easier to install because I was able to use cardstock to customize their fabrication. Of course, you know there was a lot of fitting/adjusting/fitting/adjusting to get these complex shapes to fit into something with a complex shape...


Bonus: a random picture of a cool window header that will form the light (window) associated with the quarter badge - I include it here because it, too, will eventually be hidden from view...

View attachment 421924

I had tons of fun fabricating these fiddly bits! And I thank you very much for stopping by!
Hi Paul,

You know it is never too late to saw your hull in two to see all these labor intensive parts ROTF
 
Hi Paul,

You know it is never too late to saw your hull in two to see all these labor intensive parts ROTF
yes - with a short longitudinal cut you can show all these details much easier ......
Very good work my friend - I like your model very much
btw: your treenailing is amazing accurate - BRAVO
 
Hello Friends!

Well, the rudder is on hold while I wait for ordered materials to arrive...

Nevertheless, I am ecstatic to work on something other than planking and treenails! Indeed, there are many options open to me: exterior trim details, knee of the head and headworks, standalone projects like guns or capstans, etc. But the ship's interior was calling out to me the loudest - and that begins at the bottom of the boat...

Here is an overall view of the recent additions:

View attachment 421914

Looking astern I have added the mizenmast step, the aft crutch, a pair of sleepers, and the wing transom knees (detailed images to follow):

View attachment 421915

A wing transom knee (the horizontal piece in the corner) and portside sleeper:

View attachment 421916

Mizenmast step:

View attachment 421917

Aft crutch (sorry for the depth of field problem):

View attachment 421918

The nails/bolts are 0.5 mm copper wire (about 1 inch at scale). I will leave them unburnished for now and see what happens.

Next up, the mainmast step. This is an interesting affair as it allowed for adjustment to the rake of the mast by working the fore and aft wedges which ride up against a (roughly) 2-inch iron bar.

This whole thing is a detail only you will know about in time as this entire assembly will be effectively hidden from view (sigh...):

View attachment 421919

View attachment 421920

View attachment 421921

And at the bow we find the foremast step (not adjustable on swan class ships) and upper and lower breast hooks:

View attachment 421922

View attachment 421923

Some of these recent additions are kit parts (the ones that are made up in layers), but others were scratch built. In truth the scratch-built parts were easier to install because I was able to use cardstock to customize their fabrication. Of course, you know there was a lot of fitting/adjusting/fitting/adjusting to get these complex shapes to fit into something with a complex shape...


Bonus: a random picture of a cool window header that will form the light (window) associated with the quarter badge - I include it here because it, too, will eventually be hidden from view...

View attachment 421924

I had tons of fun fabricating these fiddly bits! And I thank you very much for stopping by!
Splendid
Looks as beautiful as the teeth of your clients :p
 
I'm looking at the mast steps and the very precise and square mortice caught my eye. How do you do that? Do you start off with a smaller (round or square?) hole and then carefully enlarge it or do you mark the dimensions and just chisel it out?
When I try to do that it ends up trapezoidal with a rounded, and usually too big, entry.
 
I'm looking at the mast steps and the very precise and square mortice caught my eye. How do you do that? Do you start off with a smaller (round or square?) hole and then carefully enlarge it or do you mark the dimensions and just chisel it out?
When I try to do that it ends up trapezoidal with a rounded, and usually too big, entry.
I cheated Don. The mast steps are made up in layers. The pocket for the mast tenon is cut into the middle layer with a table saw (or with chisels, or with files) and then the fore and aft outer layers sandwich the middle layer leaving a perfect mortise. Requires some calculating but it is easy to do (though it does leave the mast step in layers which some might find off-putting...).
 
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Just the smallest of updates so you know I'm still alive. Been at my office more than I like recently and then got sick (not THAT sick - but this year's flu is a doozy).

Added a few more pieces to the forward centerline. There are more bow pieces to be installed but that's it for the present time.

View attachment 352600

Here you can see a bevel added to the lower apron:

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And the stem has been tapered from top to bottom:

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And these are the latest in my experiments for bolts. I was able to draw down copper wire in a jeweler's drawplate to about 0.41 mm which gives a bolt just under 2 cm (0.8 inches).

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Next, I'll turn my attention to the stern deadwood.
Dear dockattner

I am a very late attendee of your Kingfisher build log, and in truth am still working my way through it. I am also aware of your legendary Vasa build log, and your respected presence on this forum and the ship modelers community.

I am, like many others here have repeatedly stated, very impressed by the work you do with the ships and in particular this POF build.

Noting your references in other posts to being a teacher, presumably of your orthodontic skills, and the fact that your are a recent modeling expert inferencing that your skills in modeling are recently acquired, I hope you are well placed to empathize with other want to be experts such as myself, in explaining the exact steps you take to achieve your superlative results.

Specifically I observe many beautiful photos of outstanding building techniques such as the use of the black cellulose paper to obtain the joint lines, and the incredibly precise scarph joints and as in this post the amazing fit of the drawn copper wire to simulate ? Nails maybe. But what is missing everywhere I read is how you actually created such precise work, particularly in this scale of woodwork.

Do you use a milling machine?
Do you use special sanding and or cutting tools?
How do you stabilize the piece on which you are working?
Do you use fine chisels?
What draw plates do you use, and how?
How did you do it? All of it.

I understand that the LSS Kingfisher is a special kit, unfortunately no longer in production, however I like you may be drawn to a POF build one day soon, but I feel ill equipped to know how to get to a higher level of craftsmanship that you clearly have, and is required for POF or scratch building.

I would kindly ask if you are able to expand more on your techniques used in this wonderful build log, as I for one would greatly appreciate your insights and teaching ability.

I sincerely hope you are not annoyed by my request to know more and would be happy to be directed to any reference or resource where I might find supplementary answers.

Thank you for reading doc.
 
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