A inventive way of repairing, Jan.
Regards, Peter
Kolderstok. Fluyt in oak
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Regards, Peter
That was an excellent repair Jan. It's looking great again.
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Jan's fluyt is coming along very nicely. I am learning and making notes as I read.
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Gefeliciteerd met je verjaardag, Jan
Hallo @janzwartA Flute Ship in Oak.
For a long time I had planned to build a flute. A flute was the most common type of ship for freighters in the 17th century. They mainly sailed on the Baltic Sea with the "moedernegotie". Many were also equipped as wood grinders because shipbuilding was booming in the Zaan region at that time. A lot of sawmills were built there at that time which allowed logs to be cut into planks much faster.
The flute I wanted to build was to be a wood-carrier.
Photo: Wood-carriers
Since I didn't know a kit of it, it had to be scratch built. But given the shapes, that was going to be a challenge. And then Kolderstok came up with a kit. See:https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/17th-century-fluytschip-kolderstok.9394/
At the meeting in Duizel I told Hans van Nieuwkoop that I was planning to build a flute as wood-carrier. A little later I got an email from him asking if I was willing to build a Kolderstok flute in oak. Because Hans also wanted to optionally release the flute in oak. But first he had to build one on test. I was willing to do that for him. So Hans went to work hard to have all parts made in oak. And the result of that I have now received and can get to work.
Some pictures of the package.
Photo: Package contents.
Photo: Some of the different woods present.
Photo: trusses in thick oak
Photo: Printed figures
Photo: Oak planks for the skin. In the normal package, these are basswood.
Hans had no problem with me making it a model to my liking. That's convenient because I'm a bit "allergic" to enclosed spaces. Or rather if something is built completely closed I want to know what is inside. And as I saw in the report of that other Hans, that flute has an internal hold without bulkheads, but there is nothing left of that. So that's not possible. So my flute will be opened up somewhat.
The flute has been developed as a wood-carrier version and I want to explicitly reflect that. That is, there will be some hatches in the side, as shown in photo 1, through which wood (planks/beams) will be loaded. And large logs will be loaded from the transom. So there will also be two additional hatches there. (I think) And further logs are in the hold. So the hold must remain visible. To that end, I think I will leave out a piece of ship's wall on the other side than the loading hatches. And to be able to see some inside, I'm thinking of some yellow LEDs as oil lamps. I am still considering if I will also make the cabin visible and thus provide it with some furniture and lighting. Then I will have to make a hatch somewhere in the stern. So I have plenty of ideas but let's get started first.
To be continued.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Happy birthday Jan! I hope you have the best one ever!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
BIRTHDAY
Happy Birthday Jan!
Happy Birthday. Jan!
A bit belated, but also from me a Happy Birthday, Jan.
Regards, Peter
Regards, Peter
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Update 29
After the repair in the previous update, I applied the rest of the wales bolts as roughly shown in the overview of the current situation
The upper hull, colored yellow here, turned out to be slightly too short. In the normal package, this is made from a full batten. In my special oak version, it is laser cut in four parts from an oak plank. So that way there are also three welds in it. By the way, they are hardly visible anymore because of the yellow painting. I think exactly the same pattern was used for the wales and the underlying hull planking. That's easy, of course. But for the second wale the circumference is of course a bit larger. That is probably part of the reason they are too short.
But with a bit of fidgeting in between, it is no longer noticeable.
Also, I'm thinking about a color for the entire fuselage. I'm thinking strongly of vDijksBrown. I've done a piece of the inside and then it looks like this.
It doesn't even look that much different this way but it's really a lot darker than in this picture.
Of course, it's a workboat so it doesn't have to look sleek.
To be continued.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version) So sorry for the strange translation.
After the repair in the previous update, I applied the rest of the wales bolts as roughly shown in the overview of the current situation
The upper hull, colored yellow here, turned out to be slightly too short. In the normal package, this is made from a full batten. In my special oak version, it is laser cut in four parts from an oak plank. So that way there are also three welds in it. By the way, they are hardly visible anymore because of the yellow painting. I think exactly the same pattern was used for the wales and the underlying hull planking. That's easy, of course. But for the second wale the circumference is of course a bit larger. That is probably part of the reason they are too short.
But with a bit of fidgeting in between, it is no longer noticeable.
Also, I'm thinking about a color for the entire fuselage. I'm thinking strongly of vDijksBrown. I've done a piece of the inside and then it looks like this.
It doesn't even look that much different this way but it's really a lot darker than in this picture.
Of course, it's a workboat so it doesn't have to look sleek.
To be continued.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version) So sorry for the strange translation.
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Update 30
Once again it is time for an update.
Now is the time for adding details to the hull.
Like the bulwark all around.
Seen here from above and below from the side:
The transom was also done, but I see now that it needs some updating.
Also, the hull got a more decent color. Dark oak from Ceta Beaver.
You can clearly see the difference here at the stern, where the rudder has yet to be hung.
The bottom will be white / harpouse, but that later. Also some fenders still need to be installed and some deck furniture.
To be continued.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Once again it is time for an update.
Now is the time for adding details to the hull.
Like the bulwark all around.
Seen here from above and below from the side:
The transom was also done, but I see now that it needs some updating.
Also, the hull got a more decent color. Dark oak from Ceta Beaver.
You can clearly see the difference here at the stern, where the rudder has yet to be hung.
The bottom will be white / harpouse, but that later. Also some fenders still need to be installed and some deck furniture.
To be continued.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
The color combination looks very nice, Jan.Update 30
Once again it is time for an update.
Now is the time for adding details to the hull.
Like the bulwark all around.
Seen here from above and below from the side:
The transom was also done, but I see now that it needs some updating.
Also, the hull got a more decent color. Dark oak from Ceta Beaver.
You can clearly see the difference here at the stern, where the rudder has yet to be hung.
The bottom will be white / harpouse, but that later. Also some fenders still need to be installed and some deck furniture.
To be continued.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Regards, Peter
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Update 31
Ugh, it's been over a month since the last update. High time for an update.
I gave the wales a slightly darker color. Rambo, warm wenge 776. It's going to speak more then.
But then I wanted to put some furniture on the foredeck but it didn't go quite right symmetrically.
In particular, the pinrail is not centered. That's because the cover batten on the rafters, the fortuining, doesn't sit nicely on it. On the drawing on the right, the red vertical line is the center of the deck. I put the light green dots on it to measure the distances from the center to the fortuining. There is some (too much) difference between them. It just looks crooked.
I put a piece of paper tight against the right side and folded it in half through the middle and then cut off the left side so they are really symmetrical.
Then removed the fortuining and the truss heads underneath. (Sounds more sympathetic than scrapped)
With no sides in the way, the paper allows you to better mark the location and course of the fortuining. The center is slightly offset from the ship's center but then the foredeck looks symmetrical.
The new situation is now as below. The red line is the center.
It's not quite right yet, but enough for me.
Here you can also see that the sheaves in the catheads are simulated. There were only two slots lasered in. I put a piece on there and drilled a 3 mm hole horizontally and inserted a piece of spar into it.
The next job was to hang the rudder. I did that a little differently than the bb indicates. From previous building projects I had left over strips of brass. They contained etched parts. I bent a piece around the rudder and soldered a piece of brass wire ( 0.8 mm ) in it. On the stem side I bent a similar piece. Drilled a couple of 0.6 mm holes in it and secured it with thin nails. (Just a few words but many more hours)
And after a while of fiddling all the nails in, it looks like this left and right:
After some blackening and sticking the tiller through a hole in the head of the rudder, it looks like this:
On the head of the rudder is a nice yellow curl. That was included in the package (printed) and I carefully kept it. Painted it and put it to dry and then forgot about it. After cleaning up my workplace I remembered it was still drying somewhere. So unfortunately it did not survive the cleaning rage. By the way, a very good reason not to clean up too often. But with a little sculpting I made something acceptable. The window also has a hatch.
Some further "deck furniture" has been placed on the deck.
The red glow of the galley can be seen through the open door.
The aft deck also has an open door.
You can't see more than a bare floor behind there. But you can see that no tiller runs there, it runs under that floor.
And there are fenders at the front.
And is this the overall picture:
Here you can see an empty loop hanging in the back open area. Unfortunately, the log that was hanging there fell out of its sling. So I still have to try to frumple that one back in.
A few more little things, I have to put in a few more steps and a knight at the mizzen mast.
To be continued.
Ugh, it's been over a month since the last update. High time for an update.
I gave the wales a slightly darker color. Rambo, warm wenge 776. It's going to speak more then.
But then I wanted to put some furniture on the foredeck but it didn't go quite right symmetrically.
In particular, the pinrail is not centered. That's because the cover batten on the rafters, the fortuining, doesn't sit nicely on it. On the drawing on the right, the red vertical line is the center of the deck. I put the light green dots on it to measure the distances from the center to the fortuining. There is some (too much) difference between them. It just looks crooked.
I put a piece of paper tight against the right side and folded it in half through the middle and then cut off the left side so they are really symmetrical.
Then removed the fortuining and the truss heads underneath. (Sounds more sympathetic than scrapped)
With no sides in the way, the paper allows you to better mark the location and course of the fortuining. The center is slightly offset from the ship's center but then the foredeck looks symmetrical.
The new situation is now as below. The red line is the center.
It's not quite right yet, but enough for me.
Here you can also see that the sheaves in the catheads are simulated. There were only two slots lasered in. I put a piece on there and drilled a 3 mm hole horizontally and inserted a piece of spar into it.
The next job was to hang the rudder. I did that a little differently than the bb indicates. From previous building projects I had left over strips of brass. They contained etched parts. I bent a piece around the rudder and soldered a piece of brass wire ( 0.8 mm ) in it. On the stem side I bent a similar piece. Drilled a couple of 0.6 mm holes in it and secured it with thin nails. (Just a few words but many more hours)
And after a while of fiddling all the nails in, it looks like this left and right:
After some blackening and sticking the tiller through a hole in the head of the rudder, it looks like this:
On the head of the rudder is a nice yellow curl. That was included in the package (printed) and I carefully kept it. Painted it and put it to dry and then forgot about it. After cleaning up my workplace I remembered it was still drying somewhere. So unfortunately it did not survive the cleaning rage. By the way, a very good reason not to clean up too often. But with a little sculpting I made something acceptable. The window also has a hatch.
Some further "deck furniture" has been placed on the deck.
The red glow of the galley can be seen through the open door.
The aft deck also has an open door.
You can't see more than a bare floor behind there. But you can see that no tiller runs there, it runs under that floor.
And there are fenders at the front.
And is this the overall picture:
Here you can see an empty loop hanging in the back open area. Unfortunately, the log that was hanging there fell out of its sling. So I still have to try to frumple that one back in.
A few more little things, I have to put in a few more steps and a knight at the mizzen mast.
To be continued.
Hi Jan,
She is becoming a stunning little fluyt. Guess we can have a look at her in September ?
She is becoming a stunning little fluyt. Guess we can have a look at her in September ?