- Aug 16, 2019
Verry hard to find word to tell you how much I love your work
Way over my skill
Way over my skill
Thank you Charles, words cannot express how gratifying it is to have one's work admired and appreciated. The build is getting tougher now, with rigging becoming more difficult because of lack of space to work among the lines and masts. If you have any suggestions on what to add to the model or questions regarding it, please let me know. It's how I learn too.Verry hard to find word to tell you how much I love your work
Way over my skill
I haven't thought this all the way through yet, Kurt, but I wonder if it would be easier to do the running lines for the yards before doing the shrouds and ratlines. They do get in the way when trying to tie off the lines on the belaying pins. Maybe on my net ship I'll give that a try.Thank you Charles, words cannot express how gratifying it is to have one's work admired and appreciated. The build is getting tougher now, with rigging becoming more difficult because of lack of space to work among the lines and masts. If you have any suggestions on what to add to the model or questions regarding it, please let me know. It's how I learn too.
We are definitely learning through experience.I've seen others tie lines to belaying pins and leaving them hang off the side prior to rigging shrouds. That approach has huge advantages later in rigging. You don't have to reach in through shrouds and ratlines to attach lines to belaying pin racks like I am. This is my first run at rigging. Lines for manipulating sails are being added beyond the instructions of the original kit, so the instructions did not provide guidance for when certain lines should be installed. The kit provided a limited amount of line to use, so extra line had to be purchased. Corel was so precise in providing only enough wood that when applying the final mahogany layer to the hull, only two sticks of wood were left over after planking was completed.
That is precisely why I opted not to fully rig my Connie at 1:100. I really don’t know how you have the time for that much research. You are quite busy. But the model is coming along very nicely. I’m so impressed with what you’ve done so far.The fore topgallant sail bowlines were rigged. Things are really getting crowded. It take literally hour to tie lines to rails and belaying pins using dental pics, needle nose pliers, and dabbing a tiny bit of glue every pass around a belaying pin so delicate that is you sneeze, you'll demolish the entire pin rack. These pins are slivers, 9mm Falkonet pins, the smallest made. So far I've broken about two dozen since the build started. Anyhow, the bowlines were made using 2mm blocks, also the smallest ones available from Falkonet, and the same ones I used to rig the cannon gun truck tackles. I noticed that the "one size fits all" approach of most kits is to use only a few sizes of HUGE blocks, making the model look out of scale if it's smaller like this one. So, I've been buying lots of smaller blocks and figuring out which sizes go where. I've also started to use thinner thread for the running rigging than the instructions call for. Not everything has to be a hawser. These changes are slowly occurring to me over the build since this is my first ship and everything has a steep learning curve, mostly the days of research and information gathering.
Back to the rigging. The bowlines are really thin thread. After attaching them to the sails, the lines are run through blocks on the fore topgallant approximately half way down the stay line, then through 2mm block attached to the aftermost shroud of the sprit topmast, about halfway up the shroud, and then rearward to blocks on pinrail called the "range", located on the beakhead under the bowsprit.
The hardest part of these lines is figuring out where to belay them. I'm reconciling the belaying plans of both Core and Vincenzo Lusci's Costrulamo insieme il modello de La Couronne; Vascello francese del 1636, and both are in Italian. Google translate is so literal that when translated, a cleat in Italian come out as "ankle", bowline as "upwind" and so on. This is no longer a ship build, it's a word puzzle. There were not enough belaying pins on the range rack. Lines terminate in different locations, and Firenze has belaying pins along all the rails of the forecastle. Where Lusci has pins, I'll just be tying the lines to the rails. This presence of belaying pins on a ship this old is controversial. On my model, there will be an arbitrary mix of use of pins and tying to rails. So, two lines on the range and two on the forecastle rails will have to share the same belaying pins just to fit everything in. I can't WAIT to work on a larger size more. 1:100 scale is proving difficult when you fully rig the ship with all the sails and running rigging.
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Is there a Spanish ship which comes to mind as a similar design the San Felipe kit? Converting this huge battlewagon to a known vessel would be a worthy bashing challenge...Steal of a deal, but you can make it into any ship you want, and nobody will know!
Thanks Uwek! I will adjust the flag to look more like these pictures.Very good work on the rigging and sails - looking very good.
I just saw also your attempts on the first flag - this is very difficult to produce a flag blowing in the wind - to make it realistic
The waves in the flag are no moving usually not parallel, due to the own weight of the canvas.
You are from USA, so I was choosing your flag
the effect is much bigger, as longer the flag is / was (sorry, did not find a US-flag )
usually you have a wave in the canvas following the green line
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I am writing this, because you mentioned, that you want to try better results with practice...