La Couronne Corel/scratch 1:100 First build [COMPLETED BUILD]

The fore course sheets and tacks were rigged. The ends of the sheets were run through the sail clews and stopper knots were tied at the end of the tack lines such that they cannot be pulled through the eyes of the clew cringles. After that, blocks for the sheets were attached to the clews, with the strop line tied around the cringle of the clew, behind the tack line and its endknot. Eyebolts were installed on the hull to tied off the ends of the sheets.

After that, a couple extra metal decorative castings from Corel were used as chesstrees for the main sail tack lines to be rigged later. Holes were drilled in the castings, then they were glued to the hull. The holes through the bulwarks were then drilled behind the chesstrees.

Back to the sheet lines. Holes for sheaves in the bulwarks for the sheet lines were drilled through the bulwarks just aft of the aftermost kevels. A blackened brass ring was used as a simple decorative border for the holes and were glued to the hull. The ends of the sheet lines were inserted through the sheave holes and tied to their respective kevels, then they were run through the blocks on the sail clews, then the ends were tied to the eyebolts installed previously.

At list point, all rigging for the bowsprit and foremast is complete except for the flags on the flag staves.

1227 Eyebolt for Stbd Fore Course Sheet.jpg

1228 Eyebolt for Port Fore Course Sheet.jpg

1229 Chesstree for Stbd Main Tack Line.jpg

1230 Chesstree for Port Main Tack Line.jpg

1231 Ring Around Fore Course Sheet Sheave Hole.jpg

1232 Stbd Fore Sheet and Tack Rigged.jpg

1233 Port Fore Sheet and Tack Rigged.jpg

1234 Progress So Far 47.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello Kurt, your fabrication and attention to detail is inspiring! And at 1:100! Marvelous work. If I could ask - what did you use to create the strapping on the anchor stocks? (Yes, I know you have long ago left that project but these latest images prompted my question.)
 
Last edited:
The leechlines and bowlines were connected up today. R.C. Anderson commented in his book that the way most ship plans show the martnets will not work, because when you draw the leechlines in, the blocks joining the front and rear bridals run up against the block located under the top, resulting in the leech of the sail only being drawn halfway up, not far enough forth sailors to furl the sail properly. He suggested an alternate method of rigging the martnets and leechlines, which I have used, and which will function properly, although there is no historical source to support this method. On each side of the sail, I used 3mm triangular deadeyes for the martnet bridals. These where linked together with a section of rope that passes through a 2mm single block at the end of the fall of the leech line. This line passed through a show block resting on the top of the yardarm to the 2mm block for the martnets on the opposite side of the sail. To draw the shoeblock up and toward midships, a leech line is used and runs as follows. Starting at the side rail of the forecastles, four belaying points back from the front corner of the forecastle, the line end is belayed to the rail. From there it runs up behind the yard to a single block attached to the trestle tree under the top, inboard of the clew line pendant. The line then passes outboard and through the shoeblock, then back, ending at an eyebolt on the bottom of the top. There is no historical source that mentions where the leechline is tied, but it seemed logical to attached it back under the top.

Since the showblock is located halfway out toward the tip of the yard, drawing the leech line will draw the shoe block in and up to the underside of the top, and the leech of the sail will be drawn in far enough for the topmen (sailors) to gather the fabric in the process of furling.

Six sets of bowlines bridals, with three bridals in each set, were connected to the bowlines previously run from their belaying points. There are upper, middle, and lower bowlines, corresponding to the three sections of the sail, the sail proper, the bonnet, and the drabbler at the very bottom. I am really glad these are done making the bowlines and the leechline martnets took many hours. All that is left for rigging the fore course is attaching the tacks and rigging the sheets to the clews of the sail. Then rigging work begins all over again on the main mast.

View attachment 184855

View attachment 184856

View attachment 184857

View attachment 184858
Truly amazing and very educational! I just threw a couple of lines on and called it good. Well, maybe not that simplistic.
 
Hello Kurt, Your fabrication and attention to detail is inspiring! And at 1:100! Marvelous work. If I could ask - what did you use to create the strapping on the anchor stocks? (Yes, I know you have long ago left that project but these latest images prompted my question.)
Hi Dockattner! There is no problem with questions about earlier stages. If you click on the link below my at the bottom of this post, you can access all the pictures of this build from Day 1.

I bought four Amati 50mm anchor kits to replace the two Corel supplied anchors. There were not enough Corel anchors, and the Amati ones looked a tad better. The Amati anchors use thin square brass tube sections which are blackened and slipped onto the stocks. I could have rope for the stock bands as an alternative, but the bands were well made so I just used them. Admittedly, rope bands are more primitive looking and look great on older ships. If you cut some thin brass sheet into strips and folded them into square tubes with needle nosed plier and soldered the ends, they could easily be scratch built.

If anyone needs 50mm long Corel anchor kits, I have two available. Also available is an entire pre-sewn set of sails for 1:100 La Couronne that I didn't use since scratch built sails were custom made instead.
 
Last edited:
Truly amazing and very educational! I just threw a couple of lines on and called it good. Well, maybe not that simplistic.
Simple leechlines work and were often without martnet bridals. Martnets went out of style later on. They look really nice if you have an older ship like this, however and the added detail seems worth it.
 
The main topgallant sail was completed today. Sound simple, but rigging one sail often sidetracks you onto other details to work on, usually something you forgot to install earlier, and now it's really hard to access.

Starting off, the sail was bent to the yardarm with individual double looped gaskets tied at the top with a square knot, just like the other sails. The stiffness of the sail, combined with the tightness of the gasket loops, tends to flip the foot of the sail forward, because the head of the sail wants to lay flat against the bottom surface of the yardarm. You can take advantage of this because the sail wants to move forward, thus creating the illusion of wind blowing the sail forward. Since the sail is stiff with starch, bowlines also draw the sail forward, and thus the sail sheets stay taut, completing the effect of a sail billowing in the wind.

The lift lines needed to be rigged next. A measured length of line for each lift line was tied, starting at the bottom, to the belaying pin on the fiferail behind the mainmast, second pin in from outboard on each side of the rail. The lines were then run up through both tops, through blocks tied to the topgallant mast below the masthead and above the crosstrees, outboard and through blocks on the ends of the topgallant yardarm, then back inboard and tied off to the flagstaff above the masthead.

The clewlines are rigged next. Starting at the bottom again, measured lengths of line are attached to the fourth pin from the front end of each pin rail on the bulwark, under the main shrouds. A coil of rope is made at this end of each line to simulate excess coiled rope hanging from the rail, as described earlier in this build log. The lines are run up through both tops, through blocks tied to the topgallant yard, and tied off at the clews. In many vessels, the line would pass through a clew block and tie off back up at the yardarm, but I opted for the single clew design, also used during this time period.

Next are the sheet lines. Starting from second pins in from outboard, on the rail directly in front of the main mast, a measured length of line is belayed to the pins. The lines were then run up through the lower top to blocks topgallant masthead above the crosstrees, outboard through blocks on the topsail yard, and attached to the clews of the topgallant sail. The lift lines double as sheet lines for the topgallant sail, supporting the outer ends of the topgallant yard while simultaneously drawing the sail clew down toward the ends of the topsail yardarm.

The main topgallant brace lines were rigged. Starting at the bottom, where the belaying point is, I had the option of belaying the line to the side rail on the poop deck per the Corel instructions or tying the lines to cleats on the mizzen mast according to Lusci. Of course I opted for the difficult method and had to install 5mm cleats bear the base of the mizzen mast and pin them for strength. The Archimedes drill actually reach the mizzen mast and two holes were drilled to accept the brass pins. The cleats were made by Falkonet, and are the smallest ones I could find. They are very high quality. After gluing the cleats in place, I tied a pre-measured length of line to each cleat. I will install rope hanks on the cleats later for extra detail. The lines were run up through the mizzen top, through blocks tied to the flagstaff above the masthead, up to each brace pendant block, then back down where they are tied off on a point just a little higher on the flagstaff.

Lastly, the bowlines were rigged. Measure lengths of line, with coils fashioned near the end as before, are tied to the after forecastle railing, second location in from the sides of the ship. The lines were run up through three sets of two blocks each, located on the main stay, main topsail stay, and main topgallant stay, all positioned roughly halfway between the main and fore masts. The lines ends were left loose for the time being. Starting at the other end of where the bowlines will be attached, bridals made with thin thread were fashioned using 2mm blocks (made by Falkonet) and were rigged to leeches of the sail. The bitter ends of the bowlines previously rigged was then tied to the outermost blocks of each bridal. While tying the lines to the blocks, The tension of each line properly set such that there is enough tension to draw the sail forward to keep the sheets taut while not pulling the topgallant stay out of position.
This completes the main topgallant sail rigging, except for the flag on the flagstaff, which will come later.

Lift line belaying pin on starboard side
1236 Belaying Point of Stbd Main Topgallant Lift.jpg

Lift lines tied to flagstaff
1235 Rig Main Topgallant Lifts.jpg



1237 Bend Main Topgallant to Yard.jpg

Tight gaskets draw the sail forward.
1238 Main Topgallant Bent to Yard with Gaskets.jpg

Brace lines belayed to cleats on mizzenmast
1239 Cleat for Stbd Main Topgallant Brace.jpg

1240 Cleat for Port Main Topgallant Brace.jpg

Brace lines
1241 Run Topgallant Brace Lines Via Mizzen Top and Blocks.jpg

Brace lines run through pendant blocks
1242 Run Brace Lines Thru Pendant Blocks.jpg

Brace lines tied off on flagstaff
1243 Tie Main Topgallant Brace Lines to Mizzen Flagstaff.jpg

Bowlines belayed to railing and run up to meet topgallant leech bridals
1244 Belay Main Topgallant Bowlines to Rail.jpg

Bowlines run up through blocks on stay lines.
1245 Run Bowlines up Thru Sets of Blocks.jpg

Prepare bridals
1246 Make Main Topgallant Bowline Bridals.jpg

Tying bridals to sail leech
1247 Rig Main Topgallant Port Bowline Bridals.jpg

1247 Rig Main Topgallant Stbd Bowline Bridals.jpg

Final tying of bowlines to bridals
1248 Tie Main Topgallant Bowlines to Blocks of Bridals.jpg
 
Last edited:
I assume you are using the kit supplied ropes and tackle blocks ? Great job.

.
No. I used a combination of kit supplied line, line purchased from Syren and Domonov, and thin polyester thread. The blocks are kit supplied, Falkonet, Model Shipways beautiful blocks, and some other third party blocks. On the next ship, all the kit blocks will be replaced with Model Shipways and Falkonet blocks.
 
Tanks Kurt but I am far from be ready to start mine
Working on the Syren at the moment do not know why but not inspire at all for the moment so it go very sloly, got my lady ship to build (Säo Miguel) follow by (the Real de France) for my younger son to do. So my Couronne is in the future unfortunately.

So I enjoy greatly yours;)
 
Many hours of rigging were done today. The reef points were installed on the main topsail. The main course lifts were completed, and the main course clews, topsail sheets, and topsail braces were started at their belaying points at the deck and run up through the blocks but not tied off yet. The topsail clewlines and a main course temporary main course tack line need to be rigged. There is a temporary line from the port end of the topsail yardarm to the foremast top. This line is important because it holds the yards at an angle while the rigging for the sail is being does. It is removed when the brace lines for that yardarm are installed. Having the yards angled with sails billowed, rigged for a port side broad reach, lets the viewer see more of the deck features, different ones form each side of the ship, than you would if the yards were set square to the keel. Who says you can't see the rigging?

1249 Tape Holds Reef Points While Glue Dries on Main Topsail.jpg

Things are getting REALLY TIGHT in there and work is very slow. Main course lifts and clewlines, and topsail sheets are tied to belaying pins in the proper fashion using tools.
1250 Tying Main Clewlines, Topsail Sheets and Lifts to Fiferail.jpg

Installed main topsail bowline bridals. Starboard side shown here.
1251 Rig Main Topsail Bowline Bridaled.jpg

Main course lifts were installed. The loose topsail sheet can be seen at the end of the yardarm.
1252 Begin Rigging Topsail Lifts.jpg

Blocks for the main course clewlines were tied to the yard outboard of the lift line blocks The clewlines were run up to this point and left hanging until the main course sail is fitted.
1253 Install Block and Begin Rigging Mainsail Clewlines.jpg

Belaying points for the starboard main course clew line and lift line, and the topsail sheet line. I had to decide whether to use this centerline rail per the Corel instructions or the bulkhead pin rails according to Lusci. The rigging of this ship is a mix of both.
1254 Main Clewlines, Topsail Sheets and Lifts Belayed to Fiferail.jpg

Main topsail brace line rigging was begun. Starting at the railing, The lines were run to blocks on the aft main shroud (per R.C. Anderson), then up to blocks on the forward mizzen shroud.
1255 Belay Topsail Bracelines to Railing, Run Thru Block.jpg

Here are the blocks on the lower mizzen shrouds for the main topsail braces.
1256 Run Topsail Bracelines Thru Block on Mizzenmast.jpg

The brace lines then run up to the pendants, and will be secured to the mizzen stay collar later. I will need to loosen these lines for access to the upper and bridge decks for more rigging.
1257 Run Bracelines Thru Topsail Pendants, Tie Ends to Mizzen Stay Collar Above Top.jpg

Front view, with loose lines awaiting completion.
1258 Main Clewlines, Topsail Sheets Not Yet Finished, Main Lifts Done.jpg

Progress so far...
1259 Progress so Far 48.jpg
 
All the rigging for the main topsail was completed today, including tying the sail to the yard with gaskets, sheet lines, clue lines, bunt lines, leech lines with bridals, and bow lines with bridals. The main course clewlines were began at the belaying pin racks, run through blocks on the yardarm, and left the lines hanging until later. Rigging the bridals on the sail and tying the lines to the belaying pin racks took hours of careful work. I only broke three belaying pins in the process, because they are very spindly and delicate. I have many spares.

Belay bunt lines to belaying pins (port side shown)
1260 Belay Buntlines (Port Shown).jpg

Bunt line belaying pin (starboard side)
1261 Stbd Buntline Belaying Pin.jpg

Run bunt lines through blocks tied to main topgallant stay after the sail was bent to the yard with gaskets.
1263 Bend Main Topsail to Yard and Tie Buntline Blocks on Main Shroud Collar.jpg

Leech lines run through thimble on foot of sail and outboard where they are tied to the sail.
1262 Main Topgallant Bunt Lines.jpg

Tied clew line blocks to clews on topsail. Sheets are attached to clews using stopper knots on the ends.
1264 Tie Clewline Blocks to Main Topgallant Sail Clews.jpg

The topsail braces were adjusted and tied to the mizzen stay collar. Clew lines and sheet lines were rigged.
1265 Main Topsail Clewlines, Buntlines, Sheets & Braces Rigged.jpg

The temporary line which maintained the angle of the topsail yard was removed, and a similar line was tied to the main course yard. It was connected to the fore top. Holding the yards at the proper angle allows you to set the proper tension for all running rigging, not just the braces.
1266 Temporary Line to Hold Main Yard Angle.jpg

The main topsail bow lines were started by belaying to the aft rail on the forecastle.
1267 Belay Main Topsail Bowlines to Forecastle Aft Railing.jpg

The bow lines were run up through blocks tied to the topmast stay, they out to the bridles.
1268 Run Bowlines Thru Blocks on Main Stay.jpg

The bridles were attached to the sail, then the ends of the bow lines were tied to the last blocks of the bridle sets.
1269 Attach Main Topsail Bowlines to Bowline Bridals.jpg

Started rigging leech lines by tying them to the belaying pins (port side shown)
1270 Belay Main Topsail Leech Line to Pin (Port Shown).jpg

Run leech lines up through blocks, which are tied to the topmast stay collar, then down through sheaves on the yardarm. The sheaves were made from scratch and glued to the yard.
1271 Run Main Topsail Leechlines Through Blocks on Main Stay Collar.jpg

The bridles for the leech lines were attached to the sail using a 2mm double block on each line. The ends of the leech lines were stropped to the blocks.
1272 Attach Leechlines to Bridals.jpg

Rigging of the main topsail is complete.
1273 Main Topsail Rigging Complete.jpg

Main course clew lines are belayed to their pins (port side shown)
1273 Belay Main Course Clew Lines To Pin (Port Shown).jpg

Main course clew lines are run up through blocks on the yard and left hanging until later.
1275 Run Maini Course Clewlines Thru Blocks and Let Hang Until Later .jpg

Progress so far.
1276 Progress so Far 49.jpg
 
Last edited:
On another place we have a discussion about the lower sail on the main mast to make them haft mast to have a better view of the detail of the deck. One of the opinion was that if the gun are out it is a combat situation and the sail are partially or completely furled (fire hazard)

Both option for me are valid what is your intention full sail haft furled or completely furled.Question-Mark
 
On another place we have a discussion about the lower sail on the main mast to make them haft mast to have a better view of the detail of the deck. One of the opinion was that if the gun are out it is a combat situation and the sail are partially or completely furled (fire hazard)

Both option for me are valid what is your intention full sail haft furled or completely furled.Question-Mark
For my model, I chose full sail, as if the ship was maneuvering in moderately light wind. Exclamation-Mark
 
Last edited:
Kurt,
Glad that I found your log here. I had gone through the 100s of images from your link that you posted on my log. Really detailed and very well researched work. Gongrats indeed.

Regards,
 
Back
Top