La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette

@Kurt Konrath
@Steef66
Sorry, I could have explained it in more detail.
But it is correct as Stephan wrote.
The French term is "bouée de sauvetage".
Your level of detail of these little things most kits never offer as part of kit is outstanding.

I am learning a lot of rigging and ropework from your build log.

Just wish I could travel over and see the ship one day when complete.
 
Hi, Johann. Many thanks for the link to the soldering plate holder. I will be trying to source these on Amazon Canada. They will be invaluable for doing soldering work.
One more question about the cutters you made for deadeyes. By the picture it seems the ends of cutters underwent some heat treatment. I would imagine the cutters were the high speed steel bars. Did you anneal them before shaping the cutters? Did you hardened them back? Could you please describe the process of how you heat treated them?


View attachment 466415

@Y.T.
Hello,
it is normal high speed steel for lathe turning tools. I have not done any heat treatment, annealing or hardening. The discoloration comes from grinding, probably a bit overheated.
For these purposes it is sufficient.
 
Hello colleagues,

Thank you in advance for your kind feedback.
When I started the final rigging, I was a bit too optimistic...


Making more blocks for tackles for truss pendants, redirecting the braces, bowlines, etc.

Before I take the model out of the dust cover as announced and start the final rigging, I thought that it would be more clever to make the missing blocks so that I can then make the craft room dust-free.

This required a lot of research to get some clarity about various design details.
In particular, it was about making the tackles for the truss pendants of the lower yards. The truss pendants themselves are already attached to the lower yards. Later, when attaching the lower yards, the ends of the truss pendants have to be guided through the sheaves on the trestle trees. Then thimbles have to be tied into the ends, to which the rope tackles can then be hooked. This drawing from the Atlas de Génie Maritime illustrates the principle.


Atlas_du_Genie_maritime_PL23_wett.jpg
Source: Extract from the Atlas du Génie Maritime Pl. 23

These tackles and other blocks with corresponding strops and thimbles, depending on the use, can be seen in the following picture.
DSC02110.JPG

Some time ago I also made a series of guide blocks, as shown below, which are hooked into the area of the belaying pin rails.
DSC02118.jpg

Accordingly, there shouldn't be too many blocks missing now. So I will now look through the rigging again using the monograph in conjunction with the pictures of the original model that I have available in order to capture as many blocks as possible. The tackles topsail halyards spring to mind and there are certainly still some deflection and guide blocks missing from the upper rigging.

With regard to the final rigging, I am wondering how the standing parts of the braces are correctly attached to the stays. There is certainly a specific way of attaching them (knots, banding, etc.). Unfortunately, I have not been able to find anything about this so far, neither in the specialist literature nor on the Internet.

I would therefore be very grateful if you could give me some advice.

To be continued...
 
Witaj
Jakość twoich bloczków, chaczykow jest niesamowita Johanie wiem ile czasu trzeba poświęcić na te drobiazgi które są ozdobą każdego modelu. Pozdrawiam Mirek

Hello
The quality of your blocks, chaczykow is amazing Johan I know how much time you have to spend on these little things that are the decoration of each model. Best regards Mirek
 
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@Mirek
Thank you very much for the motivating words,
and thanks to the others for the LIKES.

Continuation: Making more blocks - topsail halyards
As already mentioned, there are still a few blocks to be made, including for the topsail halyards.
Vormarsfall_LaCreole.jpg
Source: Monograph on La Créole by Jean Boudriot

I made these single and double blocks again using the method shown so far. This method is not the most effective and has little to do with series production, but I am quite happy with the result.
DSC02131.jpg

DSC02132.jpg
In the next step I will complete the tackles of the topsail halyards (strops, ropes, hooks, eyebolts, spacers, etc.).

See you soon...
 
@Mirek
@Uwek
Thank you for your loyalty and the motivating comments.
Thank you also for the LIKES.

Continuation: Further accessories for the topsail halyards, including leader (guide bar) - Gouvernail de drisse
The leaders are another accessory required for the topsail halyards. This is a detail that is not always visible on all models, but is an important part of the rigging.
Under the considerable force required to set a topsail, the halyard tends to twist and become unclear. To prevent this, the upper halyard block was guided to the topmast backstay with a guide bar and a swivel hook was used at the channel.
In the following, I have compiled a list of different types of guide bars that were used towards the end of the 18th century and in the 19th century. However, they all served the same purpose.
Fallleiter_Zusammenstellung_Beispiele.jpg


For my model of La Créole, I naturally used the original Parisian model and the Manuel du Gabier. Compared to the original model, however, I added the swivel hook and made a longer strop, which made it possible to keep the lower block free of the bulwark and the tackles of the backstays.
I then executed this rigging arrangement according to the following drawing.
Marsfallen_LaCreole.jpg


I made all the elements in advance to see how it would look overall. If the “prototype” fits, all the other necessary parts for all the topsail halyards will be made.
Provisionally arranged, it then looks like this:
DSC02139.jpg



I had already made the swivel hooks in connection with the stay tackles, so that went quickly. Making the guide bar was also not a big job. For the sake of strength, I hard-soldered all the connections of these components.
It was a little more difficult to attach the guide bar to the topsail halyard. It would be unsightly if over-dimensional knots were to impair the filigree structure.
I have already considered how I can then attach the halyard to the model. In this respect, I have to finish one side completely as shown and then serve the appropriate places in advance, such as the passage through the tye blocks and the other end of the halyard. Then the rope of the topsail halyard is pulled through the tye blocks, then the eye with thimble is completed, taking the upper block into account. Finally, I have to dress a short remaining section freehand and attach the guide bar.

Certainly not an easy task on the model, but people also need certain challenges ...

To be continued ...

PS: I don't know if the term "guide bar" is correct?
I would be grateful if someone could tell me the correct term.
 
@Mirek
@Uwek
Thank you for your loyalty and the motivating comments.
Thank you also for the LIKES.

Continuation: Further accessories for the topsail halyards, including leader (guide bar) - Gouvernail de drisse
The leaders are another accessory required for the topsail halyards. This is a detail that is not always visible on all models, but is an important part of the rigging.
Under the considerable force required to set a topsail, the halyard tends to twist and become unclear. To prevent this, the upper halyard block was guided to the topmast backstay with a guide bar and a swivel hook was used at the channel.
In the following, I have compiled a list of different types of guide bars that were used towards the end of the 18th century and in the 19th century. However, they all served the same purpose.
View attachment 476309


For my model of La Créole, I naturally used the original Parisian model and the Manuel du Gabier. Compared to the original model, however, I added the swivel hook and made a longer strop, which made it possible to keep the lower block free of the bulwark and the tackles of the backstays.
I then executed this rigging arrangement according to the following drawing.
View attachment 476311


I made all the elements in advance to see how it would look overall. If the “prototype” fits, all the other necessary parts for all the topsail halyards will be made.
Provisionally arranged, it then looks like this:
View attachment 476310



I had already made the swivel hooks in connection with the stay tackles, so that went quickly. Making the guide bar was also not a big job. For the sake of strength, I hard-soldered all the connections of these components.
It was a little more difficult to attach the guide bar to the topsail halyard. It would be unsightly if over-dimensional knots were to impair the filigree structure.
I have already considered how I can then attach the halyard to the model. In this respect, I have to finish one side completely as shown and then serve the appropriate places in advance, such as the passage through the tye blocks and the other end of the halyard. Then the rope of the topsail halyard is pulled through the tye blocks, then the eye with thimble is completed, taking the upper block into account. Finally, I have to dress a short remaining section freehand and attach the guide bar.

Certainly not an easy task on the model, but people also need certain challenges ...

To be continued ...

PS: I don't know if the term "guide bar" is correct?
I would be grateful if someone could tell me the correct term.
It always amazes me how you can translate the details from the drawings into the detailed parts you make. A feast for the eyes, Johann.
And I agree with you, there must be challenges during ones build!
Regards, Peter
 
@Peter Voogt
@Oktay Yaylacıkoral
@dockattner
Your praise and your kind words encourage me in my work.
Thank you for that and thank you to the others for the LIKES.

Continuation: Additional accessories for the topsail halyards - swivel hooks
In the meantime, I have made all 6 swivel hooks for the topsail halyards. The length for the main topsail yards and fore topsail yards is 8.2 mm. The swivel hooks for the mizzen topsail yards were proportionally made a little smaller (L = 6.9 mm).
I tried to make these hooks based on a drawing in the Atlas du Génie Maritime.


Wirbelhaken_Atlas_du_Genie_maritime.jpg
Source: Excerpt from Atlas du Génie Maritime annexe N.1, Pl. 2


Here, with this photo montage, I would like to illustrate the individual production steps.
DSC02174.jpg


To conclude this short update, the finished, blackened hooks.
DSC02176.jpg


See you soon...
 
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Making a dust cover
Since the last post, very little has happened in my model building yard.
If you are not working on the model, you don't have it in view all the time, so to speak, and therefore the first dust build-up cannot be counteracted, then it is advisable to place it under a protective cover.
Since I will certainly be busy equipping the yards for some time, I have been thinking about protecting the model against dust for some time.
A display case would be too impractical because you have to work on the model from time to time. In this respect, I thought about building a cheap dust cover that makes it possible to open the front in order to be able to remove the model or work on it.
The frame was made with 20/20 mm spruce strips and metal angles and was covered with Molton fabric on the back. This ensures a neutral background and, if necessary, possible detailed shots. The remaining areas were covered with a crystal-clear PVC film. The front can be braced downwards using a longitudinal strip or rolled up at the top.
View attachment 402480

View attachment 402481

View attachment 402478

View attachment 402479
Hopefully soon I will be able to pick up where I left off almost 2 months ago.
So until then…
Я только что опубликовал сегодня о том, как я справился с пылью и сделал почти идентичный пылевой покров. Однако позже я заменил его второй версией, полностью сделанной из стекла и покрытой ультрафиолетовой фильтрующей пленкой.

20230808_104345.jpg
Exclamation-MarkExclamation-MarkExclamation-Mark
Incredible work on the rigging! I'm subscribed to you on YouTube and I see each photo here as a piece of art. Your work is truly on another level!
 
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@serikoff
Привіт,
Дуже мило!
Ваш пилозахисний чохол, звичайно, набагато професійніше виготовлений і також підійде як готова вітрина.

Дякую за інтерес до моєї роботи, і я дуже радий похвалі.

Greetings,

Very cute!
Your dust cover is of course much more professionally made and will also work as a finished display case.

Thank you for your interest in my work and I am very happy with the praise.
 
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