Le Rochefort 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac

... Continue work on timber #5... the notches were done with a help of a mini chisel that was used to clean up area in notches, after initial cuts were made on the mill, about half of a mm from the line.

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Fitting test was also performed few times...

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The angled area was done by hand, not having an angle wise to assist with milling.. First the mill was used to cut as deep as I can go, then hand saw was used to cut angled cuts and finally the scalpel was used to carve out extra wood..

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....
 
... most of the work was done using mini chisel and scalpel..

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Timber was yet another time refreshed with another template...

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.. so the rabbet line can be cut, using scalpel...

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First, marking...

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Then slowly cutting following marked line..

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And few fit tests...

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and the final result, I think it is for now... hopefully no more modifications will be required on it. Still will not be glued permanently in case I need to adjust a bit...

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All my templates are glued with this glue:

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Templates are easy removable after being watered lightly...

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Happy modelling.
 
I've often heard that it's the most difficult part. Opinions differ here, because I find the bow more difficult. That's just how I feel, so it doesn't mean anything. I'm convinced that some people find the bow easier and others find the mirror easier, whatever suits them better.
 
I've often heard that it's the most difficult part. Opinions differ here, because I find the bow more difficult. That's just how I feel, so it doesn't mean anything. I'm convinced that some people find the bow easier and others find the mirror easier, whatever suits them better.
Once I get thru build, all parts will be easy :)... also, keeping a good pile of notes for future projects..

Thanks again for all your support...
 
... most of the work was done using mini chisel and scalpel..

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Timber was yet another time refreshed with another template...

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.. so the rabbet line can be cut, using scalpel...

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First, marking...

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Then slowly cutting following marked line..

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And few fit tests...

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and the final result, I think it is for now... hopefully no more modifications will be required on it. Still will not be glued permanently in case I need to adjust a bit...

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All my templates are glued with this glue:

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Templates are easy removable after being watered lightly...

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Happy modelling.
Good morning. Congratulations. Whew I won’t be giving this model a go….above my pay grade. Cheers Grant
 
Good morning. Congratulations. Whew I won’t be giving this model a go….above my pay grade. Cheers Grant
Thank you Grant,.. if you have some wood available and modelling and basic woodworking tools already acquired, the only cost is ship plan (and bunch of copies) and your time...but, yes, it can get a bit higher if more planks are needed, or you have to get a tool, etc... but overall very nice and enjoyable experience..

Happy modelling..
 
Today I worked on building board and decided to try a perfect 90 degrees parts... yes, Lego blocks... those darn neighbour' kids are running fast, who would say that for small kids :)... just kidding of course...

I like using Lego in ship building as much as can just because of its perfect square you can count on and ability to fit it in any weird angle possible.. Anyhow, this is my test and we will see how it goes; the only drawback at this moment is that I cannot find a perfect lego size distance for a keel so need to improvise a bit by adding few wraps of painter's tape to hold the keel nicely and tight.

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In case, old fashioned pars are here to assist...

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Then I started to work on frames, just to break a routine.. a glass cutting board are placed on the plan and frame parts are laid down and glued.


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The ends are sanded a bit using hand sander

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And first one waiting for final fitting test and send is here..

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Happy modelling..
 
No pictures today, just comments.... i was continue working on frames and some results were not ending up quite satisfactory, so will play with other way of making frames, basically using a "traditional" or Underhill' method.... will see how that goes... For now I am using a spare wood for testing, saving good wood for later. I have to run planks thru planner anyway since my pear wood came in 6mm thickness which is more that needed for frames..

Happy modelling..
 
Continue work on timbers... by thinning them with mini table saw to needed thickness..

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Few missing/damaged parts are also prepared to be cut..

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So far this is what I have and ready to be glued together, following steps from practicum...

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I don't use template as suggested in the book and fitting them on the keel directly, hopefully it will ending up fine..

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Once on keel and with a drop of white glue, while still fresh, checking correct angle...

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So far...

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So, I also wanted to test a "classical" method using some old poplar board, already planned to correct thickness..

These templates will be glued to the plank.. Orange and blue lines are representing sanding line..

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After cutting on a band saw..

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Sanded... to the "meeting" point

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Glueing and drying...

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Will see what the end result will be, just curious...

Happy modelling..
 
Now it is time to start making some frames, finally... I might jump on another part of a ship while waiting for glue to dry...

I gave up on glass as a foundation to work on, since the distance between plan and actually frame (sitting on glass) is several millimetres which can cause me mis-positioning of frames, etc so I ended up "stealing" cooking paper (very handy, non sticking paper) and place it on top of copy of a plan, which was cut in strips, having only one row of frames visible. The plan was fixed on piece of bright white wood, from kitchen door I bough in Ikea, as-is. Very handy, perfectly flat with that blue protective paper still on the door finish.
Door was glued to two scrap pieces of wood, so I can squeeze under it my long jaw clamps. On top of a plan, I fixed parchment paper. Plan is very visible and parchment paper allows you to squeeze frames, with glue without stickiness. I believe it is betted than glass in that area. CA can easily stick to the glass but it will not stick to paper, at least in my experience. For glueing I am using mostly white glue but on some parts CA as well.

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Frame 10 with all parts is ready...
I also measured distance between frame sides so will try keeping it as close as possible to measured distances. I measured on two areas:

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So.... here we are..

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And final glueing and drying...

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Another one done, using the same method..

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Three done so far; might need to speed up process but missing proper clamps... Yet another time for me, the truth become more truth again: don't buy cheap tools, including clamps...I had 10 on those black clamps (above photo), very affordable price, but when I start using them, only 5 were usable; I was unable to open clamps to use them so they ended up on "I might use this sometime for something else" pile of scrap things.

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Happy modelling..
 
With current frame assembly method, I cannot see the template on one side of frames so I extended a line on plan and also marked the same line on the frame pieces that are finish up at the top. The line is actually inside sanding marking line so I can measure distance as accurate as possible and getting desired results. Trying to achieve the least amount of rebuild as possible...

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Also, the line is traced on the timber and half timber to make sure we are on the spot..

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I also have another approach of frame assembly and will see how this goes but will stick with practice suggested: floor timber and half floor timber glued togheter on the keel and rest of frame parts added lately.

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Frames are keep piling up..

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Happy modelling...
 
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