Le Rochefort Proposed Group Build Le Rochefort group build, builders wanted.

Zoly, theyre slightly over, very slight. The builder will have to surface plane or sand them that tiny bit to make specs. I'm thinking they'll mill to my mm specs.
 
I will be milling my own wood... from my supplies... Mostly cherry for the hull and apple for bits and Bob's... I usually go downtown to a commercial supplier and get 8ft. boards in 1/4 an 1/2 inch and then mill down to needed sizes. I might tap into this old cherry log that's been seasoning under my table saw for the past 10 years now.

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Jwallkc said:
I will be milling my own wood... from my supplies... Mostly cherry for hull and apple for bits and Bob's... I usually go downtown to commercial supplier and get 8ft. boards in 1/4 an 1/2 inch and then mill down to needed sizes. I might tap into this old cherry log that's been seasoning under my table saw for the past 10 years now.

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Yes, that’s the way. I’ll buy 6” wide planks of the thicknesses I want but mill it down to what I need. Having slats or strips milled would get expensive. You cut down thicknesses on that saw ? I find when it gets below 1/4” it just doesn’t stay true. Maybe a double fence or feather board would help this ?
 
Depending on the piece of wood I use a Band saw, Byrnes saw, Byrnes Thickness sander, or a Planer... in no particular order... The thickness sander the most though. I rarely use the full size table saw, it's really just too big and wasteful for the sizes we need. A band saw and thickness sander are much more precise I think.
 
Jwallkc said:
Depending on the piece of wood I use a Band saw, Byrnes saw, Byrnes Thickness sander, or a Planer... in no particular order... The thickness sander the most though. I rarely use the full size table saw, it's really just too big and wasteful for the sizes we need. A band saw and thickness sander are much more precise I think.
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Ok yes. I’ve milled quite a bit but the pieces didn’t have to be spot on. I had a 10” it broke so I bought an 8”. Just can’t get small stock accurate enough with it. Yes I agree we need the smaller saws for the smaller stock for models. I’ll be picking up 4” from Micro Mark, Proxxon clone. I have the small Proxxon 2” and for very small parts in thin material with the carbide blade it’s ok but it really barely worked for my milling of wood for my Blandford section. Wasted alot of time using it as it’s so weak.
 
I don’t think I’m ready for scratch building. I’ve built several kits and have The Essex plans and Takakjian’s book but I am completely intimidated with it. That said, is it bad form to lurk on this upcoming build log in order to get some knowledge on scratch building?
 
Ofontana said:
I don’t think I’m ready for scratch building. I’ve built several kits and have The Essex plans and Takakjian’s book but I am completely intimidated with it. That said, is it bad form to lurk on this upcoming build log in order to get some knowledge on scratch building?
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Lurkers are learners... If you don't lurk you don't learn... You might learn more by doing but you still learn from lurking.
 
Uwek said:
For everybody interested these are the approximate sizes (in cm) in the different scales, taken from the ancre page

"Model" means the hull only without masts, spritsail and yards
"Rigged model" off course the complete masted model

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So how about Inches and feet? Also are we talking POB or POF? Big difference in build time. As for this conversation I would think that you start the Group with a ship in mind and list the names of the participants and then go for it. If It's scratch built fine or if it's a kit fine but lets have everybody doing the same process of building. If somebody gets behind then so be it. His name stays on the list of participants until everyone is finished. If you make a rule that doesn't suit everyone then you end up making more rules to clarify the first rule. No rules is best I think. I like the learning part of a group build. I just learned how to spell "participants."
One other thing. "monograph" is a term I'm not familiar with. Could somebody fill me in on what it is?
 
Tobias said:
Hello Donnie
I will order my wood from my regular supplier (modellbau-holz.jimdo), but I would also like to try Hobbymill.eu because they have holly that appeals to me very much. As already mentioned, I will use pear again for the frame. Boxwood for the appliqués, ebony for the hull and other small things. For the planking on the outside I will use Swiss pear. The floorboards will be American maple or tulipwood.
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Does it matter what kind of wood I would use to build my ship? I usually stain or paint my models with Home Depot stuff and build with bass or balsa wood along with poplar and whatever else I have on hand. I do need to buy some rigging line though. I have never made my own sails so that would all be new to me.
 
Norgale said:
So how about Inches and feet? Also are we talking POB or POF? Big difference in build time. As for this conversation I would think that you start the Group with a ship in mind and list the names of the participants and then go for it. If It's scratch built fine or if it's a kit fine but lets have everybody doing the same process of building. If somebody gets behind then so be it. His name stays on the list of participants until everyone is finished. If you make a rule that doesn't suit everyone then you end up making more rules to clarify the first rule. No rules is best I think. I like the learning part of a group build. I just learned how to spell "participants."
One other thing. "monograph" is a term I'm not familiar with. Could somebody fill me in on what it is?
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Norgale said:
Does it matter what kind of wood I would use to build my ship? I usually stain or paint my models with Home Depot stuff and build with bass or balsa wood along with poplar and whatever else I have on hand. I do need to buy some rigging line though. I have never made my own sails so that would all be new to me.
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Hello Norgale,
a monograph is usually a set of plans at some scale with an accompanying book. The book mentions a little history of the ship being built, further explains the attached plans, construction to rigging and diameter of the rigging.
As far as the wood is concerned, it does not matter which wood you use, but since it is a POF, you will not be happy with balsa wood and the like. It is advisable to go for harder woods in order to have a certain stability in the frame. I hope I could help you a little.

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as the group developes and i get a material list i can create a timbering package for anyone who does not have the machines to do their oun lumber cutting or provide rought material to those who can cut and mill the wood.
 
Hello Dave,

That would be very helpful to people like me that do not have the tools, at this time, to mill their own material. For me, this is the biggest hurdle when building from plans.

Thanks,
Bill
 
there are two ways to approach the building of frames on way is to use sheet stock the thickness of 1/2 the full frame and cut out each frame piece then assemble the frame. A second method is the Hahn building where 1 inch wide framing material is used and a frame blank built, then the frame shape is glued to the face of the blank and the entire frame is cut out.
 
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Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
there are two ways to approach the building of frames on way is the use sheet stock the thickness of 1/2 the full frame and cut out each frame piece then assemble the frame. A second method is the Hahn building where 1 inch wide framing material is used and a frame blank built, then the frame shape is glued to the face of the blank and the entire frame is cut out.
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I would not change the construction method of the frames, especially in a group build
 
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