LE ROCHEFORT - Harbour yacht from 1787 1:36 by Tobias (Monograph by ANCRE)

Happy May 1st to all of you,
for our friends who are not from Germany. Today is a holiday for us and in Bavaria it is traditional to put up a maypole.
So you know what I mean by maypole:

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Today the frame was set, in the next few days I will work on the inside and insert the small wedges.

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Have a nice evening everyone, see you next time.
 
I will one day to spend a week or two visiting Germany. My mom was from Frankfort area, I was born in US Army hospital in Wiesbaden and my family lived at old US Air Force base in Bittburg.

I was about 4-5 when we left back for change of assignment for my father. Only a few short stop over flights have been only chance to return.

Would love to come in spring when it starts to warm up come out of winter sleep.
 
Good evening everyone, Today I glued all the frames with small pieces of wood.

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Important note:
By gluing the individual frames on the keel, the keel warps very easily. It rises very slightly at the front and back, so I would recommend fixing it to the base plate with screws or the like.

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Fit inserts M6 or M8 in the keel for finall fitting when the model is finished. You can use these now to fixate your keel to the building board.
You're funny, I build in scale 1/75. M6 or M8 will let the ship sink. :)
But I like the idea, I'm seen it at the kingfisher of Paul. He did this for adding the stand later. The problem is, the keel must be workable for the clamps.
 
Fit inserts M6 or M8 in the keel for finall fitting when the model is finished. You can use these now to fixate your keel to the building board.
Hello Marteen,
On the Le Rochefort, the keel is 6,75 mm wide in 1:36 (10,13 mm in 1:24).
So you can use a maximum M4 threaded bushing if you reduce the outer diameter to maybe 5,5 mm in 1:36. Maximum M6 for 1:24 with maybe 8 mm outer diameter (better M5 with 7 mm outer diameter).

So it would be possible to use three of these bushings for the keel, which would mean a solid fixation of the keel in your building jig.
For the final display of your model, you can use only the two outer bushings to mount the pods for your stand, if they are not too far apart.
 
You're funny, I build in scale 1/75. M6 or M8 will let the ship sink. :)
But I like the idea, I'm seen it at the kingfisher of Paul. He did this for adding the stand later. The problem is, the keel must be workable for the clamps.
If you drill a hole in your keel your ship will sink anyhow :-)
 
Offcourse the size is depending on scale. On my 1:36 scale fluyt my keel is 10,2 mm wide.
I am indeed referring to bushings like these threaded types.
For me the outer diameter looks very big. I searched a bit in the web and I found these brass bushings.
M5 has an outer diameter of 7,5 mm
M6 has an outer diameter of 8,7 mm
I ordered some and I will check if I will use them for my Le Rochefort. The keel is 10.1 mm wide, so similar to your model.
Maybe I‘ll remove the outer thread and just epoxy them into the keel.
But I will make first some trials if I will use them in the end
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Hello everyone,
I have very good experience with the ruthex thread insert.
They come in all sizes, as well as drill bits and pull-in tools.

I use those too. But tell me guys why M6 or M8? M2 - M4 works perfect. We building a model, not a furniture or chair.
The more wood aroud the thread inserts, the more stronger the part is.
 
Good morning all. For all those who are already further in the process like me please pay attention to more little things. Here is an example of my La Palme, still need to install the keys and connecting wedges (red arrow).

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To get a clean and straight line I always kept the same distance to the keel and connected the marked areas with a bendable wooden strip (blue line). A special feature of Le Rochefort is that the connecting wedges are embedded in the frames about 0.7mm. This means that you have to mill the frames at this point (green line).

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@Splinter since you have already glued your formers you have two options for the wedges on the formers.
1. fit the wedges and glue them in without the recess in the frames (would be perfectly ok).
2. you mark the spots and file out this area and push in your wedges.
Hi. Outstanding job! what you use to simulate square section nails? Thanks in advance!
 
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