Correct Toni, the starboard side will be closed. How are you getting on with Le Rochefort?Ok I see, You'll close one side.
Correct Toni, the starboard side will be closed. How are you getting on with Le Rochefort?Ok I see, You'll close one side.
I've been building planes for a bit. I model both balsa free flight planes and ships. The flying season starts very soon so have to get ready. On Rochefort I'm confused about the frame spacers, the floor timber chocks. Do they need to be the full depth of the frames ? in that case each would be a different size as the all frames are not the same depth.Correct Toni, the starboard side will be closed. How are you getting on with Le Rochefort?
Hello all,Hallo all,
Last week I was for some days on a business trip in Bavaria and had the chance to visit our friend @Tobias at home.
Many thanks for the hospitality and the visit in your workshop - and I can confirm, that his models are looking really as good as in his building logs
His La Palme in his hands - on the first photo you can also see on the desk his Le Coureur
POF La Palme (L'Amarante) Corvette 1744 1:36 (Ancre Monograph) by Tobias
Hello, everyone. Here I would like to introduce you to my second project, I am trying to build the La Palme, a sister ship of the L' Amarante. I hope that I get a lot of input from you to identify any errors and to fix them. Le Coureur will continue to be built whenever I need a change. Now...
shipsofscale.com
and also the Le Rochefort group build model stands close to the Coureur
Hello Toni you see that correctly, the height of the bottom wedges changes, see picture, they fill the space between keel and keelson.I've been building planes for a bit. I model both balsa free flight planes and ships. The flying season starts very soon so have to get ready. On Rochefort I'm confused about the frame spacers, the floor timber chocks. Do they need to be the full depth of the frames ? in that case each would be a different size as the all frames are not the same depth.
Hello Toni here a picture of GD how the block must look.Tobias, not the height that they are in the frames. T he actual size of the blocks. Should they be equal to the size of the frames in height ? ?
Link attached Report No. 201I made up a few of these so I could cut the spacers from it. See how it’s not the same size as the frame ? If this is the case then every one will have to be made individually because each frame is different.
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View attachment 364365
Tony, I think you could make them from one piece if you made it oversize and when installing align the bottom (curved portion) with the outer deck side of the frame and then sand/file/cut the inner to align with the inside of the hull.I think were losing in translation my thoughts. Ok thanks, I'll make them full size.
Hi Toni, as far as I can remember you plan to plan everything or am I wrong. If that's the case, you can also leave them out or put no water drain into them. I will only install these blocks after grinding/scratching and then working on them with the round file.Yes I understand. The thing is they’re supposed to have a round cut out on the hull plank side to allow water to drain to the keel. I may not do that as I’ve seen other builders haven’t either. Thanks
Ok yes. I wasn’t sure when to do them either, I’ll make new ones so they’re the proper size. I see what you mean it’s just easier to file the water drain later on. Thanks !Hi Toni, as far as I can remember you plan to plan everything or am I wrong. If that's the case, you can also leave them out or put no water drain into them. I will only install these blocks after grinding/scratching and then working on them with the round file.
I was going to make them in a strip 3.2mm wide (assuming 3mm between frames and 1mm dado in the side of each frame) 10cm long with a height greater than the widest frame. Route a 3mm cove in the strip using the milling machine and then slice them to the appropriate length.
Am I over thinking again?
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