Model Shipways Massachusetts Privateer Rattlesnake

Warning: Before any more shrouds, anchor the bottom ends of those chainplates to the hull. After tensioning and finishing a few more of the shrouds and deadeye lashings, the tension will be great enough to break the channel right off the hull! Then you'll have a small mess on your hands trying to get it back on the hull in the correct position. The tension force of each shroud is supported by the chainplate anchored to the hull. There should be no vertical force applied to the channel (chainwale). Before lashing the deadeyes, each chainplate must be firmly nailed to the hull below the channel, with the nail positions on a wale, if there is one. Rattlesnake does not have wales, but the it does have a hull strake that transitions from the lower hull, which is thicker, to the upper hull, which is thinner and lighter in order to save weight.
 
Kurt, thank you for catching that... that would have been bad.

I was wrongly thinking to anchor after the shrouds to line them up.
 
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dockattner said:
I have seen builders use a thread to mock up/simulate the shroud to determine the alignment of the chainplates.
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That's what I did too. It helps you plan where to place the anchor points of the chainplates to the hull and where to notch the outer edge of the channel to accept the chainplates.

Using some temporary line as a false shroud to locate where the actual shrouds should be.
633 Mark Shroud Line Positions on Chainwale Using Line.jpg

Place shrouds between gun ports leaving as much room for gun barrels as possible. This is more difficult with ships that have two or more gun decks. Mark spots on the channel and wale.
634 Mark Chainplate Locatons Using Line.jpg

Notch the channel at the marked spots to accept the chainplates.
635 Cut Notches for Chainplates.jpg

Fitting lower deadeyes and chainplates to channel and nailing chainplates to wales on the hull. In the case for this ship, two nails are used to hold the copper tab at the end of the chainplate to the hull. Tapping the tip of a flat screwdriver forms the folds of the copper to conform it to shape of the wale just before the lower nail is installed.
638 Tack Hammer in First Nail.jpg

Wooden strip trim is glued over the outboard edge of the channel, trapping the chainplates in the notches. Later, the slack in the chainplates will be eliminated when the shrouds are installed and draw them taut.
645 Trim Piece Glued Ove Chainplates.jpg
 
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What is your over all opinion of this kit? Thinking of buying same in the future. Did it come with sails? thank you
 
inge said:
What is your over all opinion of this kit? Thinking of buying same in the future. Did it come with sails? thank you
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No sails. I think the Mamoli kit is better but that isn't based on first hand knowledge. I had an over 20 year break from building these types of kits. I got it to relearn the art. From that perspective it is a good kit.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
That's what I did too. It helps you plan where to place the anchor points of the chainplates to the hull and where to notch the outer edge of the channel to accept the chainplates.

Using some temporary line as a false shroud to locate where the actual shrouds should be.
View attachment 254772

Place shrouds between gun ports leaving as much room for gun barrels as possible. This is more difficult with ships that have two or more gun decks. Mark spots on the channel and wale.
View attachment 254773

Notch the channel at the marked spots to accept the chainplates.
View attachment 254774

Fitting lower deadeyes and chainplates to channel and nailing chainplates to wales on the hull. In the case for this ship, two nails are used to hold the copper tab at the end of the chainplate to the hull. Tapping the tip of a flat screwdriver forms the folds of the copper to conform it to shape of the wale just before the lower nail is installed.
View attachment 254777

Wooden strip trim is glued over the outboard edge of the channel, trapping the chainplates in the notches. Later, the slack in the chainplates will be eliminated when the shrouds are installed and draw them taut.
View attachment 254778
Click to expand...
This is a well illustrated sequence for the memory bank and, nicely done. Rich (PT-2)
 
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PGN said:
The #14 mouse.... didn't look right. I attempted #15 last night... it looked okay. I tried to clean it up with a little flame... and the line separated. Today, #16 I used very thin tan and black thread to weave the mouse. Much better results. I use this one for the mizzen. View attachment 254914View attachment 254915View attachment 254916View attachment 254917View attachment 254918
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It looks like your patience and new ones have brought a mouse out of hiding. Don't worry about multiple attempts as I am also undergoing prior bad evenings rigging work leading lines to the wrong terminations and having to remove and redo a number while doing my best not to damage other things. Maybe there is a dance step in this hobby that keeps us stepping back every so often in the rhythm of progress. You are working at a very small size so your pursuit of what will satisfy your needs is a challenge which you are willing to dance with. Good for you!!! Rich (PT-2)
 
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I made the thimble mizzen stay last night.

I plan on securing it to the deck using 2 hearts, there really isn't detail on what to use.

Also, I'm going to have to secure the main mast before I secure the stay. Very tight place, I removed the pumps for now. Any suggestions on how to secure the stay with the main mast secured?20210909_205255.jpg20210909_212450.jpg20210909_214915.jpg20210909_231124.jpg
 
Alexander74 said:
Paul, you can learn more about the problem. I'll try to suggest something
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Sasha.... what I'm planning on this:

1. Make the lower heart, connect to ring off model.

2. Make the upper heart off model.

3. Connect hearts using tan line with a lot of slack.

Secure the main mast and ring, then pull the slack on the tan line.

My concerned that the lower ring will come out when I pull the tan line.

Is there a better way?

20210910_145530.jpgFB_IMG_1631302028327.jpg
 
Oho ho, a bit crowded in this place.
Paul, try to make an eye like in this picture, twisted. The hole in the deck should be exactly the diameter of the eyelet leg. Glue the eye on the cyanoacrylate. I must endure. And what kind of tackle is suitable for him?

1631303194249.png
 
I managed to get the mizzen mast stay secured. The top heart changed angles while I was securing the lines. Too late to fix it.... I need smaller tools, the nail clippers aren't the right tool for this.

I also made the main mast stay, tried out a new method; I started the weave from the thick end of the mouse. I think I'll stick with this method.

Next step is putting on the main mast shrouds and then the stay.

Kurt, I did nail the chain plates that I will be connecting 20210912_225310.jpg20210912_225335.jpg20210912_125738.jpg20210912_225658.jpg20210912_230516.jpg
 
PGN said:
I managed to get the mizzen mast stay secured. The top heart changed angles while I was securing the lines. Too late to fix it.... I need smaller tools, the nail clippers aren't the right tool for this.

I also made the main mast stay, tried out a new method; I started the weave from the thick end of the mouse. I think I'll stick with this method.

Next step is putting on the main mast shrouds and then the stay.

Kurt, I did nail the chain plates that I will be connecting View attachment 255897View attachment 255898View attachment 255899View attachment 255900View attachment 255901
Click to expand...
Regarding small clippers I think you may go to a local first aid and medical devices store and ask to see their small surgeons scissors possibly called Iris Scissors which have a very small and very sharp cutting. I have had two and always used the older more worn out to cut heavier things. My current working set is now also needing replacement. The prices may vary but I went for a middle priced pair and have stuck with that type/manufacturer. Depending upon cost I may get two or one of the better ones $$?. when iI need to remove rigging items previously set with CV I keep a small can of acetate to apply with small paint brushes to soften the adhesive allowing me to pull things off for corrections. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
 
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