Montanes 1:70 by OcCre

So after a couple of days on contemplations and looking and trying to figure out what I wanted to do. I have come to the decision to strip the weathering the best I can and just do a stain because I would just do a clear coat but there will be too many in perfections to actually be able to have a clean look to it. Maybe once I'm done sanding I'll change my mind but I did the rough work of Dremel and getting the large chunk of the stain and weathering off. IMG_20220516_213703710.jpg
 
Don't give up on weathering!!!
xD

Jokes aside, and just for reference, here's my weathered take on the same ship, well it's not the same ship, but it's as if it was
no treenails, all that deck gets covered and nothing can be seen anyway, i'll do treenails only on the top decks

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shelk said:
Don't give up on weathering!!!
xD

Jokes aside, and just for reference, here's my weathered take on the same ship, well it's not the same ship, but it's as if it was
no treenails, all that deck gets covered and nothing can be seen anyway, i'll do treenails only on the top decks

View attachment 309273
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That looks so great but I am not experienced enough yet to do it for this ship atleast
 
Bilal ZEYBEKOĞLU said:
Hi Rob

At this point I have a suggestion for you.

It's better put the guns on the lower deck before placing the parts #34,35,37,38. I made this mistake and believe me I spend hours to glue them to their places.

View attachment 308480

Best Regards

Bilal
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Hello Rob- good work. I absolutely agree with Bilal. Fitting those cannons under there is a mission- I remember calling my Victory many unsuitable names during this process. Cheers Grant
 
Robp1025 said:
So after a couple of days on contemplations and looking and trying to figure out what I wanted to do. I have come to the decision to strip the weathering the best I can and just do a stain because I would just do a clear coat but there will be too many in perfections to actually be able to have a clean look to it. Maybe once I'm done sanding I'll change my mind but I did the rough work of Dremel and getting the large chunk of the stain and weathering off. View attachment 308744
Click to expand...
Hello Rob- definitely a personal choice , however I was rather enjoying your weathering process. Those dremel can be dangerous- speaking from experience ;). Cheers Grant
 
Advice I gave many plastic modelers when asked. Master fit and finish before moving onto more advanced things. One step at a time. You learn from mistakes but delving in before mastering the basics is a rough lesson.
 
tonphil1960 said:
Advice I gave many plastic modelers when asked. Master fit and finish before moving onto more advanced things. One step at a time. You learn from mistakes but delving in before mastering the basics is a rough lesson.
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Very wise words for sure.
 
Alright so I needed some time because while I agree the balsa blocks will help with the planking I can't help but loath the shaping part because I have no power sanding tools besides a Dremel sooo I have done all my sanding by hand and it has been getting tiring to say the least. Then on top of this I had the set back on the decks. My solution stained the wood really well but that made getting it off that much harder. I think at the end of the day for no power tools and many scratches and stabs from the second deck beam holders I have gotten to a good point.

IMG_20220530_120747023.jpgIMG_20220530_120743832.jpg

This is with first coat of varnish and wow does this wood soak up varnish shall be interesting and a good learning opportunity for furniture and other parts that I will be varnishing going forward. IMG_20220530_120735828.jpgIMG_20220530_120732464.jpg

Also got the gun ports on and trying to decide my best way to get the third tier of start of the Hull planking(idk the name for it but this stuff)
IMG_20220530_121913883.jpg
The part above the gun ports I need to plank along with the hull without putting the second deck on so I can work on the cannons and all once I'm done planking and sanding and twisting and turning everything.
 
Robp1025 said:
Alright so I needed some time because while I agree the balsa blocks will help with the planking I can't help but loath the shaping part because I have no power sanding tools besides a Dremel sooo I have done all my sanding by hand and it has been getting tiring to say the least. Then on top of this I had the set back on the decks. My solution stained the wood really well but that made getting it off that much harder. I think at the end of the day for no power tools and many scratches and stabs from the second deck beam holders I have gotten to a good point.

View attachment 311507View attachment 311508

This is with first coat of varnish and wow does this wood soak up varnish shall be interesting and a good learning opportunity for furniture and other parts that I will be varnishing going forward. View attachment 311509View attachment 311510

Also got the gun ports on and trying to decide my best way to get the third tier of start of the Hull planking(idk the name for it but this stuff)
View attachment 311511
The part above the gun ports I need to plank along with the hull without putting the second deck on so I can work on the cannons and all once I'm done planking and sanding and twisting and turning everything.
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Well I'm glad you used the varnish because it takes away the gray look. This is tricky but I believe you have achieved the worn weathered look. The additions of deck furnishings, canons etc. will be the real test of appearance. I'm glad to see you moving forward Rob.
 
Philski said:
Consider getting a microplane to take the work out of shaping balsa. They work well for that.
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Yep I got large files and a rasp and a hand plane that I use. Balsa just doesn't want to cooperate and I made the mistake of not paying attention to wood grain and just did it all where ever I felt like
 
So I have not got too much done but I got the third and final deck planked and then was able to replicate my weathering. I got it situated and learned a lot for later parts with dry brushing and adding subtly effects with small adjustments to coloring and all so this model will be much slower now but will be very rewarding in the knowledge it brings. @shelk I'm gonna need your advice through this as your build with weathering was amazing. I am also finding myself stalling from planking idk why but yea lol.

IMG_20220604_153819856.jpg

Also for my model I am looking to stay as close to scale as possible so I was hoping maybe someone would have a scale conversion chart in metric if at all possible. I also need to figure out rope scaling which I'm not sure how to do as we don't know the size of the ropes on the ship itself. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks for visiting and I hope you all have an amazing day!!
 
So got a chance to do some more and really start getting things figured out. Now that I am here it's time to start with planking soon. I need to do the final shaping and making sure all the planks will sit well and then it's on to some planking on planking on planking. Also will start working on some decorations while planking because it's gonna be hard to just do planking on planking without some break lol. IMG_20220605_004848390.jpg
In order to hold up the third tier I used some temporary pieces inside that will be removed once I put the next deck on and after all the fun work that I need to do on the second tier.
IMG_20220605_004907916.jpgIMG_20220605_004842785.jpg
Also the bow is setup and some small weathering is done using my same mixture then sanding and varnish. I'll see you all tomorrow

As always thank you for any comments or suggestions you have and yes my shots are blurry cause I use my phone and it's not the best.
 
Robp1025 said:
So here is my first question with this ship. What is the normal width and length of a plank for ships.... So the other ships I have seen the have done 0.5x5 mm planks for the deck. Fine cool I can live with this. But this kit. Which is at 1:70 decided it wants 1x3mm planks for the deck. So which is technically the right width to use in regards to this model?

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Bad start of planking. Never starts as you have done, because you cannot hide the middle line. I always did it outside the Hull, adding some double tape on the table. on the middle plank,
I divided it into two:2 mm each so a full plank would cover the middle line.
It is much easier to sand, add paint etc.
I allways covered the base with carpenter glue- sometimes with black colour. when dry, then with a very sharp knife or Razor blade it was removed -I
used the one from cleaning the Vitro Ceramic plate- then scratch from one end to another- always the same direction until you have a surten smooch deck planks, then a middle gran sanding, and ending up with a very grain fine- Now, all tiny holes in the plank are covered, and it is now prepared for further treatment like lack etc.
 
So I am slightly confused when it comes to planking wood that was provided with my ship. As there is such a plethora of Montanes builds on the internet I'm curious. Are planks almost not long enough to span the whole ship normal for these bigger ships? Do I need to span a portion of the ship and do a staggered approach like I did with the deck or should they have been longer?
 
Robp1025 said:
So I am slightly confused when it comes to planking wood that was provided with my ship. As there is such a plethora of Montanes builds on the internet I'm curious. Are planks almost not long enough to span the whole ship normal for these bigger ships? Do I need to span a portion of the ship and do a staggered approach like I did with the deck or should they have been longer?
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The deck planks I got from my supplier: are 120 mm long. full length of a 1:72 scale
 
Hi Rob, hull planking would have been similar to deck planking in the real world (a tree only grows so long and so straight). But the hull (because of its curvature) is often easier to plank in long strips - especially in a single planked hull. If you are looking for authenticity you might want to cut the strips - but keep in mind you will then need to end each board on a bulkhead (butt or scarf joints at the bulkheads). Even that's not very authentic because real ships weren't built plank on bulkhead - they had many, many frames.

At the end of the day it will be easier for you to use long strips (since you will need two for each strake be sure to use the cutoffs wisely or you will run out of material).
 
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