Pavel Nikitin Oseberg #3 kit #61

@RussF

I managed to use Pavel's "clamps", but not the way he intended :rolleyes:

View attachment 512121

Those four spots were one of those "PIA" things. The binder clips were fine holdingt the strake in place, but there was just enough "spring" to lift the back edge away from the frame. So there was an AL-FI moment.


Jan

Yup, I know what you mean. That's what I used the spring clamps for.

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I followed Pavel’s build, and was intrigued by his clamps. A very similar device is used for 1:1 scale practice. Several along the strake, with the opening like a fork with a wedge to hold the clinker joint in place. Modern glue could be enough, or rivets and roves of course.

Also, for glues, there is a long open time Titebonc you can use, or even hide glue if you want something infinitely reversible in case you decide to disassemble and start over.

J
 
@RussF

I managed to use Pavel's "clamps", but not the way he intended :rolleyes:

View attachment 512121

Those four spots were one of those "PIA" things. The binder clips were fine holdingt the strake in place, but there was just enough "spring" to lift the back edge away from the frame. So there was an AL-FI moment.


Jan
Good evening Jan. What we come up with to make these models…… without our AL-FI moments we would all be more insane than we already are. ROTF Cheers Grant
 
I'm up to plank #4, on one side and wondering how far you planked both sides before starting to work on the deck pieces. I can't tell where Pavel stopped planking before working on the decks.
Looks great Jan!

I alternated sides with each strake. That way I could let one side dry while I worked on the other. On good days, I could get 2 or 3 rows on each side. Pavel and I (following his video lead) stopped after installing strake 9, before adding the meginhufr (strake 10). Working on the deck boards now (just got all the treenail holes drilled). The deck boards (with the little sliver extensions attached to the ends) are just slightly wider than the beam, which is good, because you can then accurately trim/sand them to get a good fit to the strakes.
 
AL-FI is a @Peter Voogt term/expression from when he was working on his Bluenose build. I'm sure he will chime in and explain the concept. In short it's going way beyond thinking outside the box while trying to solve a pesky problem. His Bluenose and Robert E Lee build logs are fascinating to follow.

Jan
Her it is, but it’s also Dean’s @Dean62
AL = Artistic License
FI = Free Interpretation
To be used when there is no original documentation. Then AL-LF is looking over your shoulder and says it alright.
Regards, Peter
 
Looks great Jan!

I alternated sides with each strake. That way I could let one side dry while I worked on the other. On good days, I could get 2 or 3 rows on each side. Pavel and I (following his video lead) stopped after installing strake 9, before adding the meginhufr (strake 10). Working on the deck boards now (just got all the treenail holes drilled). The deck boards (with the little sliver extensions attached to the ends) are just slightly wider than the beam, which is good, because you can then accurately trim/sand them to get a good fit to the strakes.
Excellent, I've got one side to strake #4, now working on the opposite side to get to strake #4, then I'll copy your method and alternate sides to get to strake #9.

BTW, how many holes did you drill in the deck boards???

Jan
 
BTW, how many holes did you drill in the deck boards???
I drilled 4 ea 0.8mm holes in each board for treenails (except some boards near the outer ends of each room only had 2 or 3). I used the engraved rings as a guide, but I stayed toward the center (widthwise) of the board, but still within the ring (hope that's clear). I plan on putting the double bead profile along each long edge, and I wanted to make sure my treenails were far enough away from that edge so as not to run into the profile. I'm going to have to fabricate a holder for my scratch stock 'cause that's a lot of boards! (Why do we do these things to our selves?) My fingers would easily start cramping while profiling the strakes. My boards will be installed with the engraving down. I have never liked the look of simulated treenails by laser engraving them.

Not all boards have been drilled. I showed on my log the rooms in which the boards were not fastened down on the real Oseberg. I'm following that pattern.
 
Hi Jan,
I started at the keel and worked my way up, beveling both up and in. It's a good starting place, but you will find as you start adding strakes that these notches will need to be trimmed. I don't think they will every fit perfectly. The fit to the strakes amidships is much better than toward the stems. I pretty much gave up on trying to make them fit perfectly, as long as you have some surface to glue to. They will be covered anyway.

Looking good Jan!

Yes, I have 2 flats each of ribs/bases, staves and bands and 1 flat of tops. The instructions, however, leave a little something to be desired. Sort of, "Here are the parts, here is what you make from them - you figure it out!" ROTF I think he was getting tired of drawing by the time he got to this point.

View attachment 507216

BTW Jan, I ordered and received my kit before you, yet my serial # is 68 and yours is 61. Not fair! ROTF I guess they're not sent out in order.
That's weird, both of you got your kits at least a week or two before me. My serial # is 57, maybe he's counting backwards. ;)
 
That's weird, both of you got your kits at least a week or two before me. My serial # is 57, maybe he's counting backwards. ;)
He probably stacked them up in the order that he packaged them, then drew from the top of the stack as he shipped them out. Some lucky person is going to get #1 pretty soon! ROTF
 
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