Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

Acra Mill Plus Modification/Addition: Acra Mill Plus is quite versatile and stable, but wanted to further increase its capabilities.

First, a larger working table in steel, thin but very rigid. The work area increases to 6x6 inches. I have added a small vertical/horizontal guide and more importantly, a nice lightweight (aluminium) self-centered vise from Arrowmax. Since it is only fix using double-side tape, it can be positioned anywhere. Once set up, it is not moving anywhere until you apply significant side pressure.

Second, an Acra Mill plus adaptor for the Foredom handpiece, an 90 degree angle handpiece from China (could not find another anywhere) which, with a raised table pieces I made, turn the table into a router/drill press.

Nothing will replace quality and dedicated equipment. Until I slowly grow the workshop (space/cost is a big concern) ... this provides a nice multi-functional stand for Foredom Flex shaft.

NOTE (after a week): DON'T consider THE CHINESE 90 DEGREE HANDPIECE. POOR FIT and the Propriety adapter already broke. Same your money. I found one from Foredom, choose that one despite the cost. I will be manufacture well.

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Working on my HMS Granado treenails I recently found the (for me) best quality toothpicks

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Yesterday I got some more, so my stock is full for the next two ship models - per box I have 1.000 picks - means 2.000 treenails - so with these 6 boxes enough for around 12.000 treenails ...... btw: it is not bamboo, but "real" wood - birch wood

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Working on my HMS Granado treenails I recently found the (for me) best quality toothpicks

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Yesterday I got some more, so my stock is full for the next two ship models - per box I have 1.000 picks - means 2.000 treenails - so with these 6 boxes enough for around 12.000 treenails ...... btw: it is not bamboo, but "real" wood - birch wood

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That’s a very nice option for treenails, Uwe. Thanks for posting!
Regards, Peter
 
Working on my HMS Granado treenails I recently found the (for me) best quality toothpicks

View attachment 423357 View attachment 423355 View attachment 423356

Yesterday I got some more, so my stock is full for the next two ship models - per box I have 1.000 picks - means 2.000 treenails - so with these 6 boxes enough for around 12.000 treenails ...... btw: it is not bamboo, but "real" wood - birch wood

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or almost enough for one Kingfisher...... ROTF
 
My new electric Treenail maker!!! OK so it's a pencil sharpener, lol I have to say this works really good, I cut a piece of cherry or walnut or whatever you want at 1/4 x1/4 about the size of a pencil and round the corners and that's it, I also got a manual one it also works well, I have a plan for the manual one, I will pull the handle off and connect it to a small electric motor , I've seen it done with a drill,I'll see how long the electric one lasts.

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My new electric Treenail maker!!! OK so it's a pencil sharpener, lol I have to say this works really good, I cut a piece of cherry or walnut or whatever you want at 1/4 x1/4 about the size of a pencil and round the corners and that's it, I also got a manual one it also works well, I have a plan for the manual one, I will pull the handle off and connect it to a small electric motor , I've seen it done with a drill,I'll see how long the electric one lasts.

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very clever idea
 
Cabinet Scrapers
I have been using a basic, rectangular cabinet scraper for years but it only works on flat or convex surface. It will not work on the concave sections of a hull near the stern so I have bought a new set that includes a shaped scraper.
I find scraping the hull planking much more effective than sanding. When flat planks are laid on the curved edge of a bulkhead they naturally stand a bit proud of its surface at their edges. A scraper will concentrate initially on these raised prtions and rapidly eliminate them. Scraping is also less messy than sanding: the scrapings are larger than the dust generated by sanding . They just fall on the bench rather than becoming airborne. This is desirable when working indoors rather than a workshop. If the scrapings are collected and mixed with a bit of PVA glue they make a good caulking material.
scrapers.jpg
 
Cabinet Scrapers
I have been using a basic, rectangular cabinet scraper for years but it only works on flat or convex surface. It will not work on the concave sections of a hull near the stern so I have bought a new set that includes a shaped scraper.
I find scraping the hull planking much more effective than sanding. When flat planks are laid on the curved edge of a bulkhead they naturally stand a bit proud of its surface at their edges. A scraper will concentrate initially on these raised prtions and rapidly eliminate them. Scraping is also less messy than sanding: the scrapings are larger than the dust generated by sanding . They just fall on the bench rather than becoming airborne. This is desirable when working indoors rather than a workshop. If the scrapings are collected and mixed with a bit of PVA glue they make a good caulking material.
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You are absolutely right comparing scraping to sanding specially large areas .It is a disaster sanding indoor and can’t go to the balcony in a bad weather.
 
I splashed out on a new Dremel 4000 kit and moto-saw today. My old Black & Decker Wizard is getting on and accessories for it are no longer available as it has been out of production for some time. The saw will be handy for cutting out all those fiddly little bits.

It's nice to treat yourself every once in a while.20240203_130109.jpg20240203_130117.jpg
 
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