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Hey Tony. Thanks for the comment. I am keeping my fingers crossed that I can safely bring her over. I have been hoarding Styrofoam, bubble wrap and other packaging material in preparation for it.
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Thanks for the heads up Vic. You probably saved me a lot of misery later on, if the deadeyes just started popping off as I was rigging the shrouds. I decided on the simplest solution, which is to tie a knot just underneath the mast-top and fixed it with a few dabs of glue gel. This served as a stopper for the futtock shrouds. Thanks again.
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The next part of my build involved rigging the various shrouds to the mast -- a set for the lower mast, a set for the top mast, and then the topgallant mast.
But before that, I just want to mention that I have not yet stepped my masts, so all this work will be done "off ship". In my case, I am using a piece of Styrofoam, with holes to hold the masts. This worked great for me as it gives me a lot of flexibility in moving the pieces around.
I wanted to mention also that I decided to use my own rope purchased from John at Davaoshipmodeller. I am using black rope for the shrouds, the seizings and serving lines.
I experimented by trial and error on how to best serve the shrouds manually, as I don't have access to a serving tool. In the end, the following is what worked best for me, though it may not be the 100% correct way. There was a lot of serving work to do, as I also decided that the first shrouds are served the full length, as suggested by most references.
I ran the rope 2 to 3 times through the beeswax (I tried to do it more times, but too much wax will give ugly wax residues, especially on black rope). After running the rope a few times between my fingers to penetrate the threads, I run it another few times through a rag between my fingers. This, I discovered, wiped off the excess and avoided the wax gunk as I wind the rope.
After measuring the desired length of the serving, I marked off the end points with a piece of masking tape. Then I mounted the rope on my third-hand tool, making sure that it is firm and taut.
To start off the serving, I apply a small amount of CA glue gel to hold the rope in place. This worked really well for me, and luckily held up very well. At first, I was tying a knot to secure the start of the winding, but it resulted in an ugly bulge, so I tried it without the knot.
Then I just start winding the rope, making sure to stop every 5th or 6th winding to squeeze the rope tight and position it so the winding is uniform. I secure the last couple of windings with a dab of glue.
Here are a few finished servings.
The topgallant shrouds are attached to the mast using the loop technique. I used Donnie's very helpful youtube tutorial on this. This technique allowed me to tie the rope tight against the mast. I also applied a little white glue as added support.
A "cheat" that I employed on odd numbered shrouds. In this case shroud #3. Theoretically, there is a proper way to rig odd numbered shrouds. I tried, but failed to have a good result by applying these techniques. I discovered that by applying the loop seizing technique, and if I kept the seizing rope long enough, and if I made the seizing rope the same size as the shroud...the long end of the seizing rope can serve as my third shroud leg. Wrong way, I know, but I thought it looked so much neater.
The top mast shrouds were served where they wrapped around the mast. I measured about 30mm below the crosstrees for the served length. For these shrouds, I used 1mm black rope. Again, I used the loop technique to seize the shrouds tight against the mast head.
One quick note...regarding the topgallant shrouds...these shrouds were supposed to be run through holes in the cross trees. However, the trees are so small that there's not enough width to drill a hole..lest I risk damaging the trees. So I opted to just glue the topgallant shrouds against the edge of the trees. Not quite technically correct, but will have to do for now
The lower mast shrouds were attached using the same techniques described above. The first shrouds are served the full length of the shroud. They are seized using the loop technique.
That's a lot of rope hanging down from the masts...from the top...the topgallant shrouds, the topmast shrouds, the lower mast futtock shrouds, the lower mast shrouds. I promise there's a method to this madness.
Thanks and happy modeling.
But before that, I just want to mention that I have not yet stepped my masts, so all this work will be done "off ship". In my case, I am using a piece of Styrofoam, with holes to hold the masts. This worked great for me as it gives me a lot of flexibility in moving the pieces around.
I wanted to mention also that I decided to use my own rope purchased from John at Davaoshipmodeller. I am using black rope for the shrouds, the seizings and serving lines.
I experimented by trial and error on how to best serve the shrouds manually, as I don't have access to a serving tool. In the end, the following is what worked best for me, though it may not be the 100% correct way. There was a lot of serving work to do, as I also decided that the first shrouds are served the full length, as suggested by most references.
I ran the rope 2 to 3 times through the beeswax (I tried to do it more times, but too much wax will give ugly wax residues, especially on black rope). After running the rope a few times between my fingers to penetrate the threads, I run it another few times through a rag between my fingers. This, I discovered, wiped off the excess and avoided the wax gunk as I wind the rope.
After measuring the desired length of the serving, I marked off the end points with a piece of masking tape. Then I mounted the rope on my third-hand tool, making sure that it is firm and taut.
To start off the serving, I apply a small amount of CA glue gel to hold the rope in place. This worked really well for me, and luckily held up very well. At first, I was tying a knot to secure the start of the winding, but it resulted in an ugly bulge, so I tried it without the knot.
Then I just start winding the rope, making sure to stop every 5th or 6th winding to squeeze the rope tight and position it so the winding is uniform. I secure the last couple of windings with a dab of glue.
Here are a few finished servings.
The topgallant shrouds are attached to the mast using the loop technique. I used Donnie's very helpful youtube tutorial on this. This technique allowed me to tie the rope tight against the mast. I also applied a little white glue as added support.
A "cheat" that I employed on odd numbered shrouds. In this case shroud #3. Theoretically, there is a proper way to rig odd numbered shrouds. I tried, but failed to have a good result by applying these techniques. I discovered that by applying the loop seizing technique, and if I kept the seizing rope long enough, and if I made the seizing rope the same size as the shroud...the long end of the seizing rope can serve as my third shroud leg. Wrong way, I know, but I thought it looked so much neater.
The top mast shrouds were served where they wrapped around the mast. I measured about 30mm below the crosstrees for the served length. For these shrouds, I used 1mm black rope. Again, I used the loop technique to seize the shrouds tight against the mast head.
One quick note...regarding the topgallant shrouds...these shrouds were supposed to be run through holes in the cross trees. However, the trees are so small that there's not enough width to drill a hole..lest I risk damaging the trees. So I opted to just glue the topgallant shrouds against the edge of the trees. Not quite technically correct, but will have to do for now
The lower mast shrouds were attached using the same techniques described above. The first shrouds are served the full length of the shroud. They are seized using the loop technique.
That's a lot of rope hanging down from the masts...from the top...the topgallant shrouds, the topmast shrouds, the lower mast futtock shrouds, the lower mast shrouds. I promise there's a method to this madness.
Thanks and happy modeling.
Attachments
I love your work and your fastidious and thoughtful attention to detail, Reggie!
Great work on the serving I can't imagine how hard it would be to do manually, I used a machine to do mine and it took a few tries to get right.
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Sorry it's been quite a while since my last update. I haven't been spending as much time on the Royal Caroline as I ought to.
I have been working for the last few weeks on reeving my deadeyes and tying ratlines for the upper mast shrouds.
There are many many different approaches to aid in reeving deadeyes. The one I decided to use is a very simple jig to help me get consistent spacing for the deadeyes by using a large metal paper clip.
After measuring the desired distance between the upper and lower deadeye and bending the paper clip accordingly, I glue deadeyes as follows, making sure the holes are oriented the right way.
I then glue 3 nails thru the 3 upper holes, and one nail in the bottom deadeye.
I am now ready to mount my first deadeye. I position it on the upper part of the jig.
I then insert the single nail through the hole in the bottom deadeye.
Once the jig is properly positioned, I can now start running the black shroud around the upper deadeye and seizing it tightly. A bit of white glue will secure the knot in place. Don't worry, the glue gunk will dry clear later on.
I then run the seizing rope a few times around, but leaving a gap in the middle (will explain reason for this later). After the gap, I run the seizing rope a few more times around, and securing the end with a bit of CA glue.
Here's the finished upper deadeye, prior to reeving.
Reeving the deadeyes is next. But first, let me show you my little reeving helper. This is a tooth floss thingamajig that I found extremely useful as I pull the rope through the deadeye holes.
I used 0.5mm beige rope for the lanyards. This is run through beeswax a few times. To start the reeving, I tie a knot at the end of the rope(with a dab of glue) to serve as a stopper and run the lanyard thru the holes in the prescribed sequence.
Coming out of the last deadeye hole, the rope is pushed thru the tiny space between the top of the deadeye and the seized shroud.
The rope is then looped thus.
Then the beige rope is wound around the seized shroud, until just before the hole gap that I mentioned previously.
Then the beige rope is squeezed thru the gap in the black rope, then looped as shown.
Pull the beige rope upwards and then seize it to the black rope with a simple knot. Secure with a dab of white glue.
Here's the finished work, front view and rear view.
To be continued....
I have been working for the last few weeks on reeving my deadeyes and tying ratlines for the upper mast shrouds.
There are many many different approaches to aid in reeving deadeyes. The one I decided to use is a very simple jig to help me get consistent spacing for the deadeyes by using a large metal paper clip.
After measuring the desired distance between the upper and lower deadeye and bending the paper clip accordingly, I glue deadeyes as follows, making sure the holes are oriented the right way.
I then glue 3 nails thru the 3 upper holes, and one nail in the bottom deadeye.
I am now ready to mount my first deadeye. I position it on the upper part of the jig.
I then insert the single nail through the hole in the bottom deadeye.
Once the jig is properly positioned, I can now start running the black shroud around the upper deadeye and seizing it tightly. A bit of white glue will secure the knot in place. Don't worry, the glue gunk will dry clear later on.
I then run the seizing rope a few times around, but leaving a gap in the middle (will explain reason for this later). After the gap, I run the seizing rope a few more times around, and securing the end with a bit of CA glue.
Here's the finished upper deadeye, prior to reeving.
Reeving the deadeyes is next. But first, let me show you my little reeving helper. This is a tooth floss thingamajig that I found extremely useful as I pull the rope through the deadeye holes.
I used 0.5mm beige rope for the lanyards. This is run through beeswax a few times. To start the reeving, I tie a knot at the end of the rope(with a dab of glue) to serve as a stopper and run the lanyard thru the holes in the prescribed sequence.
Coming out of the last deadeye hole, the rope is pushed thru the tiny space between the top of the deadeye and the seized shroud.
The rope is then looped thus.
Then the beige rope is wound around the seized shroud, until just before the hole gap that I mentioned previously.
Then the beige rope is squeezed thru the gap in the black rope, then looped as shown.
Pull the beige rope upwards and then seize it to the black rope with a simple knot. Secure with a dab of white glue.
Here's the finished work, front view and rear view.
To be continued....
Attachments
Nicely done and nicely shown, Reggie! How was your trip to the States? Are you still at your daughter’s?
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Hi Vic...no, I haven't made it out to Los Angeles yet...we postponed our trip yet again. Just when the virus appears to taper off, new variants just keep popping up. Just trying to be very careful. Hope all is well with you.
Thanks. Everything is fine here.
Are you doing okay, Reggie?
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Hey Vic...sorry for the late reply buddy....all good here...been a bit busy with other stuff at home so I haven't been able to work on my Royal Caroline for the last two months. Hope all is well with you.
for a while, but getting better.
I’m waiting with baited breath to see your new work. I’m stuck in rigging cannons now. And I’ve started a new boat.
Hallo Reggie alias @WarrLight
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
are you still working on the Royal Caroline? Maybe you show us an update of the progress
Awesome! Happy birthday Reggie! Hope you have a great day!
Happy birthday, Reggie. Hope everything is well with you and yours.
Vic
Vic
Happy Birthday, Reggie. Have a fantastic day!