Silent Mary by Mellpapa

[GIG1810]

The double-headed Eagle was a symbol of the Byzantine Empire and the Holy Roman Empire. Later, it was adopted by the Hapsburg Empire. So perhaps not a surprising coincidence, but no less a good reason to work together on your own wonderful projects.

Yes Sir..Thats right....

 

[mellpapa]

The double-headed Eagle was a symbol of the Byzantine Empire and the Holy Roman Empire. Later, it was adopted by the Hapsburg Empire. So perhaps not a surprising coincidence, but no less a good reason to work together on your own wonderful projects.

Hello, Namabiiru.
Thank you for explaining the double-headed eagle.

 

[GrantTyler]

View attachment 540581
The sails for the foremast, split-sloop topmast, and mizzenmast were constructed, sprayed with clear coat, and weathered.
They are drying on the case holding the blueprints.

View attachment 540582
Attach a cleat to each sail.

View attachment 540583
The top one is an earring, the four below are crinkles, and the very bottom is a clump... or so I intended.

View attachment 540584
I printed the double-headed eagle decals.
The top is the front side decal, the bottom is the back side decal.
The difference is...
The patch on the belly is reversed left and right between the front and back.

View attachment 540585
To transfer the decal onto the front side of the sail, place the illustration on the light table, lay the transparent film over it, and secure it with tape.

View attachment 540586
Place the main lower sail with its weathered paint finish on top.

View attachment 540587
When held up to the light, an illustration of a double-headed eagle appears.
This shows where to apply the decal.

View attachment 540588
Soak the decal in water and wait for it to separate from the backing paper.

View attachment 540589
If the decal starts to peel off the backing sheet, quickly transfer it to the sail.

View attachment 540590
While cutting and peeling off the transparent varnish part of the decal with a design knife... the decal in the blue circle area shattered.

View attachment 540591
I corrected it using Tamiya lacquer paint (matte black).

View attachment 540592
The decals and retouched areas are completely dry, so I sprayed them with matte clear lacquer to eliminate the decals' gloss.
The front side of the main lower sail is now complete.
I haven't attached the reef points yet.
I'll apply decals to the back side too, but that's a job for tomorrow.

View attachment 540593
This is a concept illustration of the sail published online.
I believe this is the back side of the sail.
Please look at the illustration below.
The patch section on the belly is the same.
If you flip the patch section left to right, it becomes the illustration of the sail's front side.

View attachment 540594
This concept art has a shallow waterline.

I'll post again after I finish the next step.

Bravo!

 

[mellpapa]

Bravo!

Hello, GrantTyler.
Thank you.
The HMS Enterprise 1774 POF 1:48 model you built is truly magnificent craftsmanship.
I was deeply impressed.

 

[mellpapa]

Foot ropes and pulleys were attached to the mainmast's lower yard, top yard, and top gallant yard.
We had made about 74 pulleys, but using about 34 on the mainmast's yards leaves us completely short.


I will make a single pulley.
I will carve grooves into all four sides of a 2×2×900mm cypress board, drill holes, and shape each piece individually to create it.


Shape it like this, then sand it down...


Cut out the shaped pulleys.
I'll make a whole bunch of these by repeating this process.


The pale pulley on the left is the newly made pulley.
I made about 88 of them.
The brown-stained pulleys on the left are stock pulleys, and there are about 40 of them.


The newly made single pulleys were stained with dark walnut wood oil.
Combined with the old ones, I now have 128 single pulleys.
This should be enough... if not, I'll just make more.

The mainmast's lower yard, top yard, and top gallant yard are done, so next I'll start working on the foremast and mizzenmast yards.

 

[mellpapa]

I've finally managed to install pulleys on each mast.
My eyesight is failing, so this kind of detailed work is extremely difficult.
This image shows the pulleys installed on each yard of the foremast and the pulley set on the split-top yard.


These are the yard components of the main mast.


Image showing the pulleys installed on each yard of the mizzen mast.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Making Parral■


I once found and bought the smallest beads at Daiso's craft section.
I'll use them for the Parral truck.
I've also used them on 1/72 scale Black Pearls and Flying Dutchmen.
Since they're brown, I can use them as-is without painting.
Measured with calipers, they were about 1.8mm. I don't know if this size will fit the Silent Mary's Parral, but I'll build the Parral anyway.



Cut the parral rib material. The material is 1mm thick, 3mm wide cypress wood.
Cut it into 1cm lengths using a chopper.


Apply Titebond adhesive to the arrow-marked sections of each cypress piece used for each mast, especially the red areas, and attach them.


Draw a rib pattern on the topmost layer of laminated cypress used for each mast.


Drill two holes in the rib drawing.


Shave it down as shown in the rib diagram.


Cut the adhesive portion and finish it with sandpaper.


Once separated, the ribs will be ready.
If they cannot be peeled off with adhesive, soaking them in water will cause them to loosen naturally.


The ribs are stained with rich walnut oil, and beads resembling trucks are used to create the parral.


The parral is complete.
This parral will be used for the mizzen Top Gallant Yard.


I installed it on the mizzen top Gallant Yard.
The wiring method for the parral rope attached to the mast seems to vary.
On Silent Mary's scale, it's impossible to install it like an actual ship, so I plan to install it appropriately to show off the parts.


The next parrel to be made will be used on the mizzen top yard.
One parrel will be made for each yard.
Since the parrel manufacturing process is identical for each yard, the parrel manufacturing steps will be omitted for subsequent yards.

 

[mellpapa]

The post I uploaded was messed up, so I tried fixing it—is this okay now?

 

[Namabiiru]

View attachment 544547
I've finally managed to install pulleys on each mast.
My eyesight is failing, so this kind of detailed work is extremely difficult.
This image shows the pulleys installed on each yard of the foremast and the pulley set on the split-top yard.

View attachment 544549
These are the yard components of the main mast.

View attachment 544550
Image showing the pulleys installed on each yard of the mizzenmast.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Making Parral■

View attachment 544518
I once found and bought the smallest beads at Daiso's craft section.
I'll use them for the Parral truck.
I've also used them on 1/72 scale Black Pearls and Flying Dutchmen.
Since they're brown, I can use them as-is without painting.
Measured with calipers, they were about 1.8mm. I don't know if this size will fit the Silent Mary's Parral, but I'll build the Parral anyway.


View attachment 544519
Cut the parral rib material. The material is 1mm thick, 3mm wide cypress wood.
Cut it into 1cm lengths using a chopper.

View attachment 544520
Apply Titebond adhesive to the arrow-marked sections of each cypress piece used for each mast, especially the red areas, and attach them.

View attachment 544521
Draw a rib pattern on the topmost layer of laminated cypress used for each mast.

View attachment 544522
Drill two holes in the rib drawing.

View attachment 544523
Shave it down as shown in the rib diagram.

View attachment 544524
Cut the adhesive portion and finish it with sandpaper.

View attachment 544526
Once separated, the ribs will be ready.
If they cannot be peeled off with adhesive, soaking them in water will cause them to loosen naturally.

View attachment 544527
The ribs are stained with rich walnut oil, and beads resembling trucks are used to create the parral.

View attachment 544528
The parral is complete.
This parral will be used for the Mizunto Top Gallant Yard.

View attachment 544529
I installed it on the Mizunotop Gallant Yard.
The wiring method for the parral rope attached to the mast seems to vary.
On Silent Mary's scale, it's impossible to install it like an actual ship, so I plan to install it appropriately to show off the parts.

View attachment 544546
The next parral to be made will be used in the Mizunto Top Yard.
One will be made for each yard, but since the process for making a parral is the same, the parral-making steps will not be included for each yard going forward.

Mellpapa,
That’s wonderful work you have done!

I have the exact same beads I got from Joyful Honda (so they probably cost me twice what you paid at Daiso ). When I have used them, I thought were still a little bit too big, but I haven’t found anything smaller, and once everything is put together they look fine.

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Mellpapa,

That looks really great. I think it's insane how you finish these things. When I see the Silent Mary, I always think of how evil she was in Pirates of the Caribbean ... She looks so beautiful, bad girl ...

Great realisation, simply beautiful.

How long did you work on the blocks and also on the ribs that look like a B?

Best regards

 

[mellpapa]

Mellpapa,
That’s wonderful work you have done!

I have the exact same beads I got from Joyful Honda (so they probably cost me twice what you paid at Daiso ). When I have used them, I thought were still a little bit too big, but I haven’t found anything smaller, and once everything is put together they look fine.

Namabiiru, hello.
You and I have the same beads.
We're in the same boat.
It seems there aren't any smaller beads than these.
Even at craft stores in Sapporo or Asahikawa, I couldn't find any smaller beads.
At that craft store, the same beads were sold for double the price.
I was a bit surprised, but I guess it's because of the difference in their suppliers.
For thread to use on the rope, if you go to the leather goods craft section at a craft store, they have lots of thread that looks like it could be used for a model sailboat.

 

[mellpapa]

Hey Mellpapa,

That looks really great. I think it's insane how you finish these things. When I see the Silent Mary, I always think of how evil she was in Pirates of the Caribbean ... She looks so beautiful, bad girl ...

Great realisation, simply beautiful.

How long did you work on the blocks and also on the ribs that look like a B?

Best regards

GIG1810, hello.
It took about two weeks to attach the pulleys to the yards.
It took about two days to make two parral.
I still need to make about five more parral.
Carving the rib that looks like the letter B took about an hour.
If you rush and force it, you'll mess it up.
The adhesive oozed out and stuck, so I soaked it in water until it dissolved.
Then it took time to dry.
It seems best to take your time, not rush, not force it, and build slowly.

 

[GIG1810]

Thanks for the answer. It is very great..!!

 

[mellpapa]

The yard parrels are ready, so I attached one side to each yard.
The names of each yard are listed from top to bottom.
Fore top gallant yard
Fore top yard
Main top gallant yard
Main top yard
Mizzen top gallant yard
Mizzen top yard
Lateen yard

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Since the cross jack has no sail, I mounted it on the mizzenmast.
I attached a pulley to the mizzenmast cap to lift the cross jack, hoisted it with a lift rope, secured it with a slings, and fixed it to the mizzenmast with a truss.


I attached the cross jack, so I tried taking a shot from the stern.
Pretty good, don't you think? Feeling pretty pleased with myself.
I need to add a lion's face to the rudder section...
That's the part with the red arrow in the image below.
I haven't made the lion's face yet, so I'll make it next.
If I don't make it when I remember, I'll forget about it.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I've added Reef pointst to the Mizzen Top Sale. Since I used thread similar in color to the sail, they don't stand out.
It's fine if you can just sort of tell the Reef points are there, even if they're not noticeable.

In the movie, I couldn't tell at all whether the Reef points were there or not.
So for me, it's best if it's hard to tell whether the Reef points are there or not.


I attached the Reef points, so I tried putting a sail on the Mizzen Top Yard.
This is the front side.
The sail is blown white, so it's hard to see the Reef points clearly.


This is the reverse side.
You can clearly see the mizzen top yard here. The Reef points blend in with the sail's color, so they don't stand out. Or rather, they're hard to make out.
Next is attaching the Reef points to the mainmast topsail, but I'll take a break from that and work on the lion's face on the rudder instead.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Create a lion face for the rudder decoration■


I tried making a lion's face using Tamiya's epoxy putty (fast-curing type).
Please look at the part marked with the red arrow.
What do you think? Does it look like a lion's face??


I zoomed in on the red arrow area.
It sort of looks like a lion's face, so this should be fine.
I can't make it any better than this.
After leaving it overnight to dry completely, I'll apply olive drab as the base coat and finish with gold dry brushing.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Lion Face Painting■

1
Shave the back of the lion face to thin it, then attach it to the wood with double-sided tape to prepare for painting.
2
Apply olive drab as the base coat.
3
Dry brush gold to make the lion face stand out.


I compared the lion's face to a 10-yen coin.
Can you tell how big the lion's face is?
Measured with calipers: width approx. 6.8mm, height approx. 7.2mm.


The paint dried, so I glued it to the rudder.
Took a shot from the stern.
Maybe it's a bit small??
But I think this size is fine.
I'm totally satisfied with myself.


Zoomed in. This is about right, right?


Zooming in even further...
It exposed all sorts of rough spots.
I thought about deleting this image, but I'll leave it up.
This is the level of my craftsmanship.
It's nothing to brag about.

 

[Namabiiru]

View attachment 545953
The yard parrels are ready, so I attached one side to each yard.
The names of each yard are listed from top to bottom.
Fore top gallant yard
Fore top yard
Main top gallant yard
Main top yard
Mizzen top gallant yard
Mizzen top yard
Lateen yard

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

View attachment 545954
Since the cross jack has no sail, I mounted it on the mizzenmast.
I attached a pulley to the mizzenmast cap to lift the cross jack, hoisted it with a lift rope, secured it with a slings, and fixed it to the mizzenmast with a truss.

View attachment 545955
I attached the cross jack, so I tried taking a shot from the stern.
Pretty good, don't you think? Feeling pretty pleased with myself.
I need to add a lion's face to the rudder section...
That's the part with the red arrow in the image below.
I haven't made the lion's face yet, so I'll make it next.
If I don't make it when I remember, I'll forget about it.
View attachment 545956

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

View attachment 545957
I've added reef point to the Mizzen Top Sale. Since I used thread similar in color to the sail, they don't stand out.
It's fine if you can just sort of tell the leaf points are there, even if they're not noticeable.

In the movie, I couldn't tell at all whether the leaf points were there or not.
So for me, it's best if it's hard to tell whether the leaf points are there or not.

View attachment 545958
I attached the reef point, so I tried putting a sail on the Mizzen Top Yard.
This is the front side.
The sail is blown white, so it's hard to see the reef point clearly.

View attachment 545959
This is the reverse side.
You can clearly see the mizzen top yard here. The reef points blend in with the sail's color, so they don't stand out. Or rather, they're hard to make out.
Next is attaching the reef points to the mainmast topsail, but I'll take a break from that and work on the lion's face on the rudder instead.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Create a lion face for the rudder decoration■

View attachment 545960
I tried making a lion's face using Tamiya's epoxy putty (fast-curing type).
Please look at the part marked with the red arrow.
What do you think? Does it look like a lion's face??

View attachment 545961
I zoomed in on the red arrow area.
It sort of looks like a lion's face, so this should be fine.
I can't make it any better than this.
After leaving it overnight to dry completely, I'll apply olive drab as the base coat and finish with gold dry brushing.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Lion Face Painting■
View attachment 545962
1
Shave the back of the lion face to thin it, then attach it to the wood with double-sided tape to prepare for painting.
2
Apply olive drab as the base coat.
3
Dry brush gold to make the lion face stand out.

View attachment 545963
I compared the lion's face to a 10-yen coin.
Can you tell how big the lion's face is?
Measured with calipers: width approx. 6.8mm, height approx. 7.2mm.

View attachment 545964
The paint dried, so I glued it to the rudder.
Took a shot from the stern.
Maybe it's a bit small??
But I think this size is fine.
I'm totally satisfied with myself.

View attachment 545965
Zoomed in. This is about right, right?

View attachment 545966
Zooming in even further...
It exposed all sorts of rough spots.
I thought about deleting this image, but I'll leave it up.
This is the level of my craftsmanship.
It's nothing to brag about.

Simply amazing work, as always, Mellpapa! I love your lion head!

 

[mellpapa]

Simply amazing work, as always, Mellpapa! I love your lion head!

Namabiru, hello.
I tried carving a lion's face by poking at epoxy putty with a design knife and toothpick.
Lately, it's trendy to 3D print ornaments, cannon barrels, dead eyes, pulleys, and such.
It's truly amazing how precisely they can be made.
But somehow, it feels like we've entered an AI era where handmade work gets undervalued in the creative world...
I'm not skilled, and I don't need to make it look perfect—I'll keep making handmade models that satisfy me.
I considered introducing 3D printing, but then model-making would lose its appeal for me.
I like old-fashioned crafting best.

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Mellpapa,

You really are a pervert, just like in the books.

The little lion head is just great. I'm already a fan of your Silent Mary, and the galleon figure you've conjured up is an absolute hit with me. I'm going to recreate the galleon figure in a similar way. Your lion head is really great. But you could have made it a little bigger! Great work. I'm also a fan of handicrafts. But I'm also a fan of beauty. That's why I'm always a hybrid. I build what I can create with my hands. If that's not enough, I like to resort to 3D printing. The disadvantage, however, is that 3D figures and other objects are still very expensive.

I look forward to seeing more progress and beautiful pictures from you.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

 

[mellpapa]

Hey Mellpapa,

You really are a pervert, just like in the books.

The little lion head is just great. I'm already a fan of your Silent Mary, and the galleon figure you've conjured up is an absolute hit with me. I'm going to recreate the galleon figure in a similar way. Your lion head is really great. But you could have made it a little bigger! Great work. I'm also a fan of handicrafts. But I'm also a fan of beauty. That's why I'm always a hybrid. I build what I can create with my hands. If that's not enough, I like to resort to 3D printing. The disadvantage, however, is that 3D figures and other objects are still very expensive.

I look forward to seeing more progress and beautiful pictures from you.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

GIG1810, hello
Pervert... I'm honored. Thank you very much.
I couldn't make the lion's face any better than this.
Probably using a 3D printer would make a precise, high-quality one.
A 3D printer is a great tool when used as a supplement.
I think 3D printing decorations, cannon barrels, dead eyes, pulleys, and small accessories is a very good idea.
But I'll deliberately choose to do it by hand.

For the figurehead of the Athena, I think using a figure around 1/48 scale would be good.
I'm looking forward to the Athena you create.

 

[GIG1810]

Hello Mellpapa,

You're right. When you make something by hand, it's beautiful. I usually always fail because of my high standards. I will try to do a little better. I'm glad you're looking forward to the Athena. I hope I can make it so great that it will be worth the wait.

Best regards

Günther

 

[RussF]

Namabiiru, hello.
You and I have the same beads.
We're in the same boat.
It seems there aren't any smaller beads than these.
Even at craft stores in Sapporo or Asahikawa, I couldn't find any smaller beads.
At that craft store, the same beads were sold for double the price.
I was a bit surprised, but I guess it's because of the difference in their suppliers.
For thread to use on the rope, if you go to the leather goods craft section at a craft store, they have lots of thread that looks like it could be used for a model sailboat.

I don't know if these are what you have, but I just spotted on Ama$on,

Toho Round Seed Beads 15/0#222 'Dark Bronze' 8 Gram Tube​

It says they are about 1.5mm in diameter and that they string about 24 per lineal inch (1.05mm). They seem smaller than what you measured.

 

[mellpapa]

I don't know if these are what you have, but I just spotted on Ama$on,

Toho Round Seed Beads 15/0#222 'Dark Bronze' 8 Gram Tube​

It says they are about 1.5mm in diameter and that they string about 24 per lineal inch (1.05mm). They seem smaller than what you measured.

RussF, hello
The small beads I bought were about 2.2mm in diameter.
So there are even smaller beads than these, huh.
I immediately checked Amazon Japan and found them.
But they're currently out of stock.
I'll buy them when they're back in stock.
Thank you so much for the great information.
I'm really grateful.