That is very good to hear Roger
Syren 1803 1:64 Model Shipways
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It reminds me of my mistake when I did that model.
i just hope it holds up as I continue to attack it with drill bitsThat is very good to hear Roger
.I hate to ask but I’m going to ….. ?
why should you?
I said I’m going to but I didn’t say whenwhy should you?
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I think it will jinx it if you ask. In my opinion I wouldn't.i just hope it holds up as I continue to attack it with drill bits
I hate to ask but I’m going to ….. ?
No issues Heinrich, just slow and steady and lots of coffee breaks
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DittoI think it will jinx it if you ask. In my opinion I wouldn't.
The hawse pipe holes are now drilled through the hull and I have made doublers both inboard and outboard. These are temporarily placed in position ready to be painted later on.
The hawse pipes on the Syren lead downwards at an undefined angle from inboard to outboard and at the same time lead for’d. I say undefined because the angle depends on the height of the deck internally and the space between the cheeks outboard, each Syren build will vary slightly. The manual says to drill outboard first then do inboard. I went with a highly technical approach called “hit or miss”.
I started off in a similar way to Heinrich’s recent WB hawse holes with gradually increased drill bit sizes. I started with a very fine drill bit and estimated the necessary angle needed. Obviously the important thing here is not to end up drilling into those deck planks as the drill point exits internally. There is some leeway because that initial tiny exit hole provides an indication of where you need to adjust for the final hole size. I estimate I drilled at about 30 degrees upwards. I then drilled alternately from inboard and outboard.
I measured repeatedly to try and get everything lined up and also used card templates. Each time I increased the drill bit size I left the previous one in the adjoining hole to give me a visual guide to help maintain angles and distances.
I wanted the holes to be as far for’d as possible, close to the stem. In practice this is so the cable restrains the ship better in the eye of the wind, much as it does in modern practice. For the cable if I go for 1/2” circumference for every foot of beam at 27 feet I get 13.5” circumference. Converted to diameter that’s a little over 4”. So I am probably going to use a max. rope size of 0.062” diameter (1.57mm). I might paint the internal hole a grey lead colour for additional realism or use a lead pencil.
I’m glad that part of the build is mostly done. My photos just show the temporary stage I am at, there’s cleaning up, adjusting and painting to do.
My thanks as always for following along and spending your valuable time reading my posts.
The hawse pipes on the Syren lead downwards at an undefined angle from inboard to outboard and at the same time lead for’d. I say undefined because the angle depends on the height of the deck internally and the space between the cheeks outboard, each Syren build will vary slightly. The manual says to drill outboard first then do inboard. I went with a highly technical approach called “hit or miss”
.I started off in a similar way to Heinrich’s recent WB hawse holes with gradually increased drill bit sizes. I started with a very fine drill bit and estimated the necessary angle needed. Obviously the important thing here is not to end up drilling into those deck planks as the drill point exits internally. There is some leeway because that initial tiny exit hole provides an indication of where you need to adjust for the final hole size. I estimate I drilled at about 30 degrees upwards. I then drilled alternately from inboard and outboard.
I measured repeatedly to try and get everything lined up and also used card templates. Each time I increased the drill bit size I left the previous one in the adjoining hole to give me a visual guide to help maintain angles and distances.
I wanted the holes to be as far for’d as possible, close to the stem. In practice this is so the cable restrains the ship better in the eye of the wind, much as it does in modern practice. For the cable if I go for 1/2” circumference for every foot of beam at 27 feet I get 13.5” circumference. Converted to diameter that’s a little over 4”. So I am probably going to use a max. rope size of 0.062” diameter (1.57mm). I might paint the internal hole a grey lead colour for additional realism or use a lead pencil.
I’m glad that part of the build is mostly done. My photos just show the temporary stage I am at, there’s cleaning up, adjusting and painting to do.
My thanks as always for following along and spending your valuable time reading my posts.
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slow and steady wins the race. Is that even a saying? I don't know.
Anyways, great job!
Anyways, great job!
Good morning Roger. Firstly I love your work. The close up of the bow shows off your planking, coppering, cannon port, railings etc which are immaculate. Well, with your highly technical hit and missI went with a highly technical approach called “hit or miss”
approach certainly rendered plenty of hits. Cheers Grant
Dang. Those are some stellar facings on the hawse holes. A+ for fit and finish Roger!
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Hi Roger, let me point out that the coppering has a different arrangement than it does on the hull. FrankThe hawse pipe holes are now drilled through the hull and I have made doublers both inboard and outboard. These are temporarily placed in position ready to be painted later on.
The hawse pipes on the Syren lead downwards at an undefined angle from inboard to outboard and at the same time lead for’d. I say undefined because the angle depends on the height of the deck internally and the space between the cheeks outboard, each Syren build will vary slightly. The manual says to drill outboard first then do inboard. I went with a highly technical approach called “hit or miss”
I started off in a similar way to Heinrich’s recent WB hawse holes with gradually increased drill bit sizes. I started with a very fine drill bit and estimated the necessary angle needed. Obviously the important thing here is not to end up drilling into those deck planks as the drill point exits internally. There is some leeway because that initial tiny exit hole provides an indication of where you need to adjust for the final hole size. I estimate I drilled at about 30 degrees upwards. I then drilled alternately from inboard and outboard.
I measured repeatedly to try and get everything lined up and also used card templates. Each time I increased the drill bit size I left the previous one in the adjoining hole to give me a visual guide to help maintain angles and distances.
View attachment 396100
I wanted the holes to be as far for’d as possible, close to the stem. In practice this is so the cable restrains the ship better in the eye of the wind, much as it does in modern practice. For the cable if I go for 1/2” circumference for every foot of beam at 27 feet I get 13.5” circumference. Converted to diameter that’s a little over 4”. So I am probably going to use a max. rope size of 0.062” diameter (1.57mm). I might paint the internal hole a grey lead colour for additional realism or use a lead pencil.
View attachment 396102
I’m glad that part of the build is mostly done. My photos just show the temporary stage I am at, there’s cleaning up, adjusting and painting to do.
View attachment 396101
View attachment 396103
My thanks as always for following along and spending your valuable time reading my posts.
I think you have identified my tortoise like pace with this build Jack. Mind you it feels like a snail pace sometimes
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Hi Grant, thanks for your support. I’m always wary of taking close ups. I sometimes wish Apple iPhones had a selective “ship builders filter”Good morning Roger. Firstly I love your work. The close up of the bow shows off your planking, coppering, cannon port, railings etc which are immaculate. Well, with your highly technical hit and miss
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Thanks Paul, I’m at the point where lots of small time-consuming parts need to be completed. For the Syren the hawse holes are an example of getting it right first time, so it took a while. My excuse anyway
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Thank you Frank, I really value your keen eye and experience. I will do more research of coppering techniques for future reference. Unfortunately I’m at a stage where I am reluctant to remove the plates but I will take your respected advice for my next build. Many thanks.
Hello Heinrich, I have said and implied before that following your techniques and methods gives an inexperienced builder more confidence and the kick start necessary to get on with things. Your recent hawse drilling project is an example. Thanks for your always present support.