The "Chinese" Harvey

DARIVS ARCHITECTVS · Jan 19, 2024

mondrasek said:
Kurt (who I am not sure if I like or not...), check it: Cannon trunnions.

View attachment 422306

Also, Zooph is still with us. He is just relaxing somewhere where he cannot work on his models and post. And so opportunity presents me with a chance to catch up!

Cheers,

M.

No worries. Zooph will save up more zingers to throw at us when he gets back and catches up.

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

Well, this is my progress so far. Now I have the task of beating my brow over rigging....

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
As I said before, you suck. But I guess I like you anywho. Frenemies?

Here is the difference in the equivalent cost of 22 gauge Stainless and Brass. But then I realized I probably only need 10 inches of wire TOTAL for this model, so the entire spool of either will never be used (by me, in my lifetime)! At the bottom of the pic is a strand of the Brass after blacking once by swabbing. I tested first to confirm that this wire has a clear (maybe lacquer?) finish to keep it shiny. And so had to sand that off to allow the oxidant to get to the metal to black it. I'm used to needing to remove the lacquer from magnet wire from working with it on some electrical "projects" through the years... And you guys probably know all this already, but I want to make sure these tips are passed along.

View attachment 421967

I Managed to find some fuse wire, useful stuff.

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
Kurt (who I am not sure if I like or not...), check it: Cannon trunnions.

View attachment 422306

Also, Zooph is still with us. He is just relaxing somewhere where he cannot work on his models and post. And so opportunity presents me with a chance to catch up!

Cheers,

M.

Cheeky monkey!

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

Zoopher said:
Well, this is my progress so far. Now I have the task of beating my brow over rigging....View attachment 422346 View attachment 422347

Thou shalt NOT display those on plans for the Harvey! I forbid it!

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

Also, a couple of these on the way:

Curved Anchor 20mm - Amati (4010/20) - Ship Model Fitting

The Old Style Curved Anchor 20mm for Model Ships. Modelers Central Offers 1000s of Fittings & Parts for Model Ships & Model Boats. Available to Order Online.

www.modelerscentral.com

And thanks to Donnie I am awaiting these:

Ultra-Slim Power Tech Driver Set

DetailsSleek, Light and Powerful Ultra-Slim Power Driver SetIn-line forward and reverse switch3 bright LED lights to illuminate your workUSB rechargeable batterySlim driver bodyIncludes a wide assortment of bits and drivers in an organizer case

www.micromark.com

Drill Chuck For Precision Powered Screwdrivers

DetailsConvert Your Precision Powered Screwdriver into a Powered Micro Drill Convert your power screwdriver into a powered micro drillFits Micro-Mark’s driver #89993Chuck capacity 1/64 inch to 1/8 inchFits any tool with a 7 mm outer-diameter shaftA Micro-Mark Exclusive

www.micromark.com

Right now I'd estimate the Harvey kit is less than 1/6 of the cost of tools and other supplies spent on this project. At least everything is small. But my work bench/computer desk is getting cluttered. Not to mention covered in sawdust!

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
Thou shalt NOT display those on plans for the Harvey! I forbid it!

Hahahaha! None shall hinder my quest for excellence (well the attempt anyhoo)!

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
Also, a couple of these on the way:

Curved Anchor 20mm - Amati (4010/20) - Ship Model Fitting

The Old Style Curved Anchor 20mm for Model Ships. Modelers Central Offers 1000s of Fittings & Parts for Model Ships & Model Boats. Available to Order Online.

www.modelerscentral.com

And thanks to Donnie I am awaiting these:

Ultra-Slim Power Tech Driver Set

DetailsSleek, Light and Powerful Ultra-Slim Power Driver SetIn-line forward and reverse switch3 bright LED lights to illuminate your workUSB rechargeable batterySlim driver bodyIncludes a wide assortment of bits and drivers in an organizer case

www.micromark.com

Drill Chuck For Precision Powered Screwdrivers

DetailsConvert Your Precision Powered Screwdriver into a Powered Micro Drill Convert your power screwdriver into a powered micro drillFits Micro-Mark’s driver #89993Chuck capacity 1/64 inch to 1/8 inchFits any tool with a 7 mm outer-diameter shaftA Micro-Mark Exclusive

www.micromark.com

Right now I'd estimate the Harvey kit is less than 1/6 of the cost of tools and other supplies spent on this project. At least everything is small. But my work bench/computer desk is getting cluttered. Not to mention covered in sawdust!

Will give modelerscentral a look, so thanks sucker! Bwahahahaaa!

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

Zoopher said:
Cheeky monkey!

What? I'm TIC now? Do you not remember that you are the one that went AWOL?

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

, so another community question. As I am tapering the Main with a drill motor and sandpaper I wondered: How did the real ship builders do this?

M.

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
, so another community question. As I am tapering the Main with a drill motor and sandpaper I wondered: How did the real ship builders do this?

M.

Spokeshaves

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

Zoopher said:
Spokeshaves

Thanks! And the follow-up question... Did they pull those down from the thinner end or up from the thicker end. I would assume upwards (well sideways since it would not be installed in the boat yet) towards the thinner end?

M.

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
Thanks! And the follow-up question... Did they pull those down from the thinner end or up from the thicker end. I would assume upwards (well sideways since it would not be installed in the boat yet) towards the thinner end?

M.

I believe from the thicker end but in stages to eventually form the taper.

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

Aw nuts! Dropped one of the spars on the floor and stepped on it, harrumph back to the workbench!

DARIVS ARCHITECTVS · Jan 20, 2024

Zoopher said:
Aw nuts! Dropped one of the spars on the floor and stepped on it, harrumph back to the workbench!

Ah yes... that sickening *CRUNCH* sound. I know it well.

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

Zoopher said:
Aw nuts! Dropped one of the spars on the floor and stepped on it, harrumph back to the workbench!

YEAH! One more moment for me! But for the less selfish in the room, "I'm sorry for your loss."

M.

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

And for anyone who doesn't know the pain and suffering already, this took 17 Hours! Or maybe 17 minutes? Either way, it was a LIFETIME!

mondrasek · Jan 20, 2024

DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
Even if you do not glue the masts, the stays and shrouds would hold them firmly in place. You want to glue the masts and ensure that are at the correct angle because they will play a role in your setting of the stays and shrouds later. If the masts resist being pulled out of position, because they are glued down, you can feel how taut the line you are rigging is.

Cool. Any advice about securing the stays and shrouds to the hull (under the channels)? We've got no hardware, nor holes. So I assume we will have to drill holes into the hull? But how do you "push" a rope into a hole and make it look taut?

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
YEAH! One more moment for me! But for the less selfish in the room, "I'm sorry for your loss."

M.

Thanks man, you wrote earlier about help from over the pond, perhaps some spars.....

Zoopher · Jan 20, 2024

mondrasek said:
Cool. Any advice about securing the stays and shrouds to the hull (under the channels)? We've got no hardware, nor holes. So I assume we will have to drill holes into the hull? But how do you "push" a rope into a hole and make it look taught?

A blunt pin or needle perhaps?