Nice job M, perhaps I can farm mine out to you?
Mine are not the spars you are looking for...Thanks man, you wrote earlier about help from over the pond, perhaps some spars.....
You're a gent sir
I can wait...
. Then if you can just post a Credit Card number... Oh wait, we (I mean only me) need the expiration date and security number as well. So why don't you just scan it (both sides) and send a pic?
Nah I'll send a cheque. It should be able to bounce across the Atlantic...
But I'm a Narobian PRINCE! You must give me the CREDIT CARDS!!!
Funnily enough I am the King of the moon people and I demand your fealty and unending devotion. HUMBLE YOURSELF BEFORE YOUR GOD KING PEASANT!!! HAHAHAHA!!! (Where are my meds now...)
Trying to poke the thread into a hole in the hull and gluing it there is difficult to get it appearing taut. I made the shrouds from black heavy coat thread. You start with the channels and deadeyes first, then rig the shrouds taut. From my build log:
The first channel is glued onto the hull. The channels dimensions were taken from Russian plans for the Halcon. The edge of a diamond file was used to cut the notches to accept the chainplates.
The location of where the chainwales are bolted to the hull is located using a temporary (false) shroud line. These spots are marked with a dental pick, and small nails are pushed into the holes. The chainplates will be simulated using heavy black coat thread.
The dental pick easily makes holes in the soft, thin planking.
Here are the blackened nails inserted into the holes. I had these on hand in my model supplies. You can use fine brass pins from Amati, normally used for holding hull planks to frames.
At this scale, the same black thread used for the shrouds was used for the chainplates. Even the smallest chain you can buy would look too large at this scale. Black heavy threads are tied to the nails, then the threads are tied to 3mm and 2mm round deadeye (not provided in the kit) at precise distances from the nails such that they sit directly atop the channels. This is nimble work at this scale. An overhand knot is used on each deadeye, and the knot is locked down with glue after the line is adjusted to the proper length.
PVA glue is applied to the knots, then to the notches in the channel so the deadeyes are held in place. This will make rigging the falls between the upper and lower deadeyes a bit easier later on. I won't have to wrestle them with fat fingers.
The channels, chainplates and deadeyes are done on the port side. The smaller 2mm deadeyes are for the backstays for the topmasts.
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Thanks, Kurt. I'll let that soak in a bit. It gives me a good baseline for a strategy.
And while I have been mostly impressed with the quality of the wood in this kit I have now broken two dowels while trying to tapper the top of the Main. The Bowsprit and top of the Fore were no problem, and so I assumed the Main would be just as uneventful. But so far the two pieces of dowel wood have been so brittle! I abandoned the first because it snapped just from the slight torsion caused by me spinning it against sandpaper. The next snapped twice doing the same! I have since glued that one back together to try to salvage enough dowel to complete that piece. But I fear it will snap again when rigging. But still better than the cost and hassle of driving to a hobby/hardware store in this polar vortex.
So really?
First world issues, I guess...
And while I have been mostly impressed with the quality of the wood in this kit I have now broken two dowels while trying to tapper the top of the Main. The Bowsprit and top of the Fore were no problem, and so I assumed the Main would be just as uneventful. But so far the two pieces of dowel wood have been so brittle! I abandoned the first because it snapped just from the slight torsion caused by me spinning it against sandpaper. The next snapped twice doing the same! I have since glued that one back together to try to salvage enough dowel to complete that piece. But I fear it will snap again when rigging. But still better than the cost and hassle of driving to a hobby/hardware store in this polar vortex.
So really?
First world issues, I guess...
Zooph! You have to get me one of these and ship it over! They do not ship to the US yet! Please, please, please! I need to teach my daughter how to drive and I think this is the safest way.
www.carson-modelsport.com
Buy 1:87 MB Bus O 302 Dt. Post 2.4G 100%RTR online | Carson
Buy 1:87 MB Bus O 302 Dt. Post 2.4G 100%RTR online | Carson | Official Manufacturer Shop✓ Personal Service✓ Fast Delivery✓ Free Returns✓
www.carson-modelsport.com
Forget that M, get her one of these...Zooph! You have to get me one of these and ship it over! They do not ship to the US yet! Please, please, please! I need to teach my daughter how to drive and I think this is the safest way.
Buy 1:87 MB Bus O 302 Dt. Post 2.4G 100%RTR online | Carson
Buy 1:87 MB Bus O 302 Dt. Post 2.4G 100%RTR online | Carson | Official Manufacturer Shop✓ Personal Service✓ Fast Delivery✓ Free Returns✓
You can park where you want and I'd like to see em clamp this bad boy!But after seeing her play a bit of "Need for Speed" with the pedals and steering wheel I use, I fear for us all! I definitely do not recommend her having control over that much tonnage!
Very nicely dented up front! Looks very battle worn. Tamiya?
Very nicely dented up front! Looks very battle worn. Tamiya?
A big help here as well Kurt as I'm running out of blocks so will start on the round shroud holding doodads. You should write a book manTrying to poke the thread into a hole in the hull and gluing it there is difficult to get it appearing taut. I made the shrouds from black heavy coat thread. You start with the channels and deadeyes first, then rig the shrouds taut. From my build log:
The first channel is glued onto the hull. The channels dimensions were taken from Russian plans for the Halcon. The edge of a diamond file was used to cut the notches to accept the chainplates.
The location of where the chainwales are bolted to the hull is located using a temporary (false) shroud line. These spots are marked with a dental pick, and small nails are pushed into the holes. The chainplates will be simulated using heavy black coat thread.
The dental pick easily makes holes in the soft, thin planking.
Here are the blackened nails inserted into the holes. I had these on hand in my model supplies. You can use fine brass pins from Amati, normally used for holding hull planks to frames.
At this scale, the same black thread used for the shrouds was used for the chainplates. Even the smallest chain you can buy would look too large at this scale. Black heavy threads are tied to the nails, then the threads are tied to 3mm and 2mm round deadeye (not provided in the kit) at precise distances from the nails such that they sit directly atop the channels. This is nimble work at this scale. An overhand knot is used on each deadeye, and the knot is locked down with glue after the line is adjusted to the proper length.
PVA glue is applied to the knots, then to the notches in the channel so the deadeyes are held in place. This will make rigging the falls between the upper and lower deadeyes a bit easier later on. I won't have to wrestle them with fat fingers.
The channels, chainplates and deadeyes are done on the port side. The smaller 2mm deadeyes are for the backstays for the topmasts.
Yes indeed, didn't want to go to nuts with the damage. Great kit.
What, the tank?
Sorry, I was thinking it was too angular.
So before my eyes went South I did some card. And then I had to give that up since both eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were too cumbersome. BTW, I am 20/15 at anything longer than about 50 inches, and so I can read the names of street signs from a mile away!
And since we are sharing, here is some of my previous projects in card. My daughter selected the colors for the Russian fighter. It was the second build and upscaled from 1:48 to 1:33. I'd probably have to go higher now! But the wheels and prop all spin. I'm still needing to re-work the windsheild.
M.
So before my eyes went South I did some card. And then I had to give that up since both eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were too cumbersome. BTW, I am 20/15 at anything longer than about 50 inches, and so I can read the names of street signs from a mile away!
And since we are sharing, here is some of my previous projects in card. My daughter selected the colors for the Russian fighter. It was the second build and upscaled from 1:48 to 1:33. I'd probably have to go higher now! But the wheels and prop all spin. I'm still needing to re-work the windsheild.
M.
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Cool, never built card models before although they are very popular in Europe