the Colonial Schooner Hannah in 1/48 [COMPLETED BUILD]
link is no good
Pardon me, is there any room left for me to follow along with this build? 
I think the link is correct, however it seems that the Navy Board Models website currently has some technical issues (since a couple of weeks ago)
https://www.navyboardmodels.com
Here it is the Hannah plan sales page cached from July: http://web.archive.org/web/20200712052435/http://www.navyboardmodels.com/store/plans/hannah
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Hi dear friends
Today I focused on the serial production of the parts that make up the frames.
As I updated last Tuesday, I made the boards in the Prooxon Thicknesser DH 40.
The construction started today in calculating the quantity required from each part and I started drawing on the boards the parts from number 1 to number 5.
Later I started sawing the boards, first at the edges to produce 2.5 cm wide boards.
View attachment 20200807_165735.mp4
Next I sawed the five parts in series. Everything went fine until due to haste (the family dinner was approaching) and inattention I was lightly cut in the finger. Happily the incision was not deep and a basic dressing stopped the bleeding.
But it seems to me that in the coming days I will not return to the work of sawing, but do not worry I will return again, that is my pleasure and happiness.
Wishing us all a fun weekend
View attachment 20200807_175809.mp4
Today I focused on the serial production of the parts that make up the frames.
As I updated last Tuesday, I made the boards in the Prooxon Thicknesser DH 40.
The construction started today in calculating the quantity required from each part and I started drawing on the boards the parts from number 1 to number 5.
Later I started sawing the boards, first at the edges to produce 2.5 cm wide boards.
View attachment 20200807_165735.mp4
Next I sawed the five parts in series. Everything went fine until due to haste (the family dinner was approaching) and inattention I was lightly cut in the finger. Happily the incision was not deep and a basic dressing stopped the bleeding.
But it seems to me that in the coming days I will not return to the work of sawing, but do not worry I will return again, that is my pleasure and happiness.
Wishing us all a fun weekend
View attachment 20200807_175809.mp4
Hope that doesn't hurt too much. Also hope it heals quick so you can get back to work...lol
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Hello dear friends
Apparently I was wrong in my ability to curb the passion and enjoyment of building ships model, I went and even finished cutting all the parts into frames b to p.
I will update you later about the progress.
wishes all a nice weekend full of pleasures
Apparently I was wrong in my ability to curb the passion and enjoyment of building ships model, I went and even finished cutting all the parts into frames b to p.
I will update you later about the progress.
wishes all a nice weekend full of pleasures
I’m a little confused by your log! It appears you have several wood species for your frames. I can identify what looks like cherry, maple and perhaps poplar. What will you use for your final frames?
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dear Doc
Well done for the sharp and professional distinction
Indeed I practiced the first two frsmes on a cherry, however since the language is rare and expensive I decided to use more available and inexpensive wood.
The cherries and maple boards, I keep to Harmony that I bought her book and maps about three months ago.
It will take me a few more years of learning and specialization before I can tackle it with the required quality.
I dedicate the current model for the purpose of learning and even learning from mistakes.
Location determines price. Where I live, cherry and maple, suitable for modeling, is actually fairly cheap. Cherry in “Select & Better” grade is costly, but you don’t need that clear lumber in long lengths to build models! Cherry in #1 Common will yield lots of clear timber in model making lengths (2-3 feet long).
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thanks again for your Advice and opinion
Looks good Shota70! Just watch yourself. Please no more injuries. I see your mini table saw. You know if you make a zero clearance insert for the saw, you will yield cleaner cuts, less tear out and safer to use. here is a link on making one. it's it pretty easy to make.
Yup... very good tip. My Byrnes saw came with a blank plate. All I did was screw the plate down to the deck, turn the saw on, gradually raise the saw and let it cut right thru the plate - Done!!!
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Hello my good friends
This weekend I continued in serial production of the layers from which I will make the frames. The pictures best illustrate the slightly Sisyphean process at the end I was able to produce 11 layers of one types.
The process started with sanding the different parts so that they would all be the same and match the drawing.
I then glued the 4 parts that make up the current layer according to the drawing, the wax paper separates the wood from the drawing and also between the weights and the books.
This weekend I continued in serial production of the layers from which I will make the frames. The pictures best illustrate the slightly Sisyphean process at the end I was able to produce 11 layers of one types.
The process started with sanding the different parts so that they would all be the same and match the drawing.
I then glued the 4 parts that make up the current layer according to the drawing, the wax paper separates the wood from the drawing and also between the weights and the books.
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