Thank you, Peter.That is looking very beautiful, Daniel. A nice deep blue paint.
Regards, Peter
Thank you, Peter.That is looking very beautiful, Daniel. A nice deep blue paint.
Regards, Peter
Success!
Thank you, Paul and Dom.Magnifique cette coque ! Je suis très inspiré
Thanks Dean, another great tip I shall apply. A thinner more equal looking flange around the Hawse holes.Hawse holes look fine Daniel, especially after paint. The only improvement would be to use a rat tail file and as you spin it in the hole, start to angle it towards the long side of the ellipse on both sides so you end up with an equal width surround on all sides. Hope that makes sense.![]()
Awesome looking dark blue paint! IMHO spot on.Well its Friday and I am excited to post success with the midnight blue accent hull painting Whew!!
I started with the masking proceedure and remembered something Dean @Dean62 told me a long time ago to seal off your masking tape to prevent underruns. So I mixed a small batch of 50% water, 50% clear poly and painted a thin line along the masking line which acts as a seal, it worked perfectly!
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Being concerned with brush marks I mixed the paint at 11:1, 11 drops of paint and 1 drop of water. I hit it just right the first time and after two coats with very little or no brush marks here are the results.
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A major concern put to rest so now just need to place the 1/16" pin stripe tape I bought which I think will be a little more forgiving since I should be able to manipulate it into place.
Hope you enjoy and have a great weekend.
Be aware, the chainplates, going through those tiny slotted holes, will cover (part) some of the scuppers.Next up I spent quite some time trying to dry fit the rail cap boards and realized there is only one position which will afford the shroud strap assemblies to miss the drain scuppers (except for one). I believe the 1:1 plans are incorrect on this but my solution will work. When this situation is combined with my slightly longer hull, I will have to insert an extension piece on each side at 7mm each. I will do this on the rear rail caps in the narrow section just before it widens out
at the aft piece. All of the main mast shroud straps will miss the drain scuppers. This adjustment will allow for at least a 1 to 2 mm cap rail overhang.
Hey Dan, when you aim for a 2mm overhang on your rails, you might want to have a look at the overhang at the bow; if you want, you could reduce that overhang also to 2mm, giving you less issues with your longer than nominal hull.This adjustment will allow for at least a 1 to 2 mm cap rail overhang.
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For all of you BN builders out there who had a perfect build without adjustments, my hat is off to you.
Till next time.
I'm glad you brought this up Johan, your right I do have too much overhang at the bow which at first, I thought was necessary to miss all but one scupper. I've since studied photos of the BN II which clearly shows some of bands partially covering some the scuppers. Because of this I will reduce the bow overhang which will reduce the filler length required on the cap rail. I'll do another dry fit to determine a best fit scenario. Also, great idea about making a couple dummy straps to hang down while dry fitting an alignment, thanks.Hey Dan, when you aim for a 2mm overhang on your rails, you might want to have a look at the overhang at the bow; if you want, you could reduce that overhang also to 2mm, giving you less issues with your longer than nominal hull.
PS: I also had to modify my railings...![]()
You’re welcome!I'm glad you brought this up Johan, your right I do have too much overhang at the bow which at first, I thought was necessary to miss all but one scupper. I've since studied photos of the BN II which clearly shows some of bands partially covering some the scuppers. Because of this I will reduce the bow overhang which will reduce the filler length required on the cap rail. I'll do another dry fit to determine a best fit scenario. Also, great idea about making a couple dummy straps to hang down while dry fitting an alignment, thanks.
Those hawseholes separates the men from the boys...Here is a quick hawsehole update. Using @Dean62, Deans suggestions with the rat tail file, I modified the hawseholes as shown. Also, for better contrast I made a gray paint by mixing black and white and painted the inside of the pipes which I think presents fairly well. The port side photo is a bit closer in than the starbord. They both look better from a standard viewing distance.
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I noticed how easily the dark blue paint would peel off from the poly undercoating so I overcoated it with matte finish poly and now it is quite durable.
Till next time.
The hawse holes looks now very fine, Daniel. You have managed Dean’s suggestion very well. And the gray inside gives them the needed spot view.Here is a quick hawsehole update. Using @Dean62, Deans suggestions with the rat tail file, I modified the hawseholes as shown. Also, for better contrast I made a gray paint by mixing black and white and painted the inside of the pipes which I think presents fairly well. The port side photo is a bit closer in than the starbord. They both look better from a standard viewing distance.
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I noticed how easily the dark blue paint would peel off from the poly undercoating so I overcoated it with matte finish poly and now it is quite durable.
Till next time.
Thank you, Peter.That dark blue really pops in contrast with the pearwood. Great job Daniel.
Thank you very much Johan.Those hawseholes separates the men from the boys...
Indeed, it is Peter. The openings in the cap rail for the straps dictate the amount of overhang at least at the shroud locations. I shall study on this until a practical solution can be reached that accommodates at least the important parameters.Take your time for this, measure and fit over and over, it’s a big ‘spot-on’ part.
I used those slotted holes with the copper strips inserted through them to locate the fwd rails against the hull, thus determining the offset of the rail and fiddled around with the offset at the bow to be give or take 2mm. Once satisfied, I installed the aft rails, using the same copper strap-method. These two rails did require trimming/adjustment though in order to make the stern piece fit properly. The monkey rails are much the same; use the slots with straps to locate against the skin ánd to locate the monkey rail in fwd/aft direction, relative to the earlier installed aft rails. Like @Peter Voogt said, take your time to ensure everything sits "right" before applying any adhesive.Indeed, it is Peter. The openings in the cap rail for the straps dictate the amount of overhang at least at the shroud locations. I shall study on this until a practical solution can be reached that accommodates at least the important parameters.