Ganz schön langes "Gestänge"
Looking good with the correct colour..... and amazing when you imagine all studdingsails installed
Looking good with the correct colour..... and amazing when you imagine all studdingsails installed
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- Mar 18, 2021
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Just always to remind everybody: This were the spars for the main-topsail stun´sails only. From about 1800 there were by Admirality order no more stun´sails for the main course issued. This means, the boom hanging in the mizzen channels was in fact the one for the fore course stun´sail boom.
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- Mar 18, 2021
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Somehow I always like screwing myself. Like when I enthusiastically ordered the crew to the heads for their relief. I had simply put aside all the heads gear :-0
So I put the sling for the gammoning over the bowsprit and threaded all the lashings with the 50 cm long and still quite balky rope through the crew like this ...
... so that no one felt inconvenienced in their businesses or even knocked off their thrones.
Somehow I actually managed without any accidents. Afterwards, I had brushed the gammoning minimally with white paint to match the colour of the rest of the appearance.
When I looked at the lower edge of the gammoning, I noticed the hawse pipes. I had already had the pleasure of looking at an original of the St. George in Thorsminde. These were made of lead with a nice bead around the outside.
It took me a few attempts to find the right material for it.
I ended up with 0.4 mm copper wire, which was hammered flat to lose the wire character.
Fitted, glued on ...
... and painted.
XXXDAn
So I put the sling for the gammoning over the bowsprit and threaded all the lashings with the 50 cm long and still quite balky rope through the crew like this ...
... so that no one felt inconvenienced in their businesses or even knocked off their thrones.
Somehow I actually managed without any accidents. Afterwards, I had brushed the gammoning minimally with white paint to match the colour of the rest of the appearance.
When I looked at the lower edge of the gammoning, I noticed the hawse pipes. I had already had the pleasure of looking at an original of the St. George in Thorsminde. These were made of lead with a nice bead around the outside.
It took me a few attempts to find the right material for it.
I ended up with 0.4 mm copper wire, which was hammered flat to lose the wire character.
Fitted, glued on ...
... and painted.
XXXDAn
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- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 210
- Points
- 253
When I was working on the main yard, I noticed that I was missing good jeer blocks. So I programmed and printed some right away. And the hearts for the stays and the head gear also came with them.
And since that went so well, the other special blocks were also added, here the shoulder and sheet blocks.
In the past, I had made the thimbles from pierced and drawn sprue at great effort. Printed is quicker and cleaner and above all more true to size.
Then the moment of truth: Binding the thimbles, here the 1.75 mm size:
Apply a drop of superglue with an applicator to the back of the thimble in the groove ...
... and hook the rope into the groove at the back of the thimble and pull it forward.
Then I pressed the rope together at the front with some glue using tweezers and pinned the thread for the splice imitation at the desired distance from the thimble and fixed it with slow super glue.
Then knot the two ends alternately at the top and bottom, always moving the knots in the direction of the thimble until the gap was closed. Then the final knot was secured with glue and cut off the excess lengths.
With the pointed tweezers it goes really fast.
Using an almost dry brush, brush on some black paint to cover up any light glue residue.
Then cut open one of the hooks from my etched parts set at the eye, bent it open and inserted it, ...
... bent shut and that's it. Here are the patterns for 2 mm, 1.75 mm and 1.5 mm.
They are also used in a not entirely uncritical place, the bumkin shrouds.
It is difficult here to produce the right lengths so that it fits on both sides and also looks the same.
Here, the shoulder block for the foresail's tack is tied in.
This is then the set.
And this is how it looks in place.
XXXDAn
And since that went so well, the other special blocks were also added, here the shoulder and sheet blocks.
In the past, I had made the thimbles from pierced and drawn sprue at great effort. Printed is quicker and cleaner and above all more true to size.
Then the moment of truth: Binding the thimbles, here the 1.75 mm size:
Apply a drop of superglue with an applicator to the back of the thimble in the groove ...
... and hook the rope into the groove at the back of the thimble and pull it forward.
Then I pressed the rope together at the front with some glue using tweezers and pinned the thread for the splice imitation at the desired distance from the thimble and fixed it with slow super glue.
Then knot the two ends alternately at the top and bottom, always moving the knots in the direction of the thimble until the gap was closed. Then the final knot was secured with glue and cut off the excess lengths.
With the pointed tweezers it goes really fast.
Using an almost dry brush, brush on some black paint to cover up any light glue residue.
Then cut open one of the hooks from my etched parts set at the eye, bent it open and inserted it, ...
... bent shut and that's it. Here are the patterns for 2 mm, 1.75 mm and 1.5 mm.
They are also used in a not entirely uncritical place, the bumkin shrouds.
It is difficult here to produce the right lengths so that it fits on both sides and also looks the same.
Here, the shoulder block for the foresail's tack is tied in.
This is then the set.
And this is how it looks in place.
XXXDAn
I love these tiny parts and blocks - very good work my friend
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- Mar 18, 2021
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Thanx Uwe!
And the adventure continued.
Many attempts were made to dress the thin ropes: first rope wrapped in the classic way, various diameter combinations, resulting in extremely high workload, extremely high rejects, when bending around the blocks the tapes broke open and above all: it looked like crap somehow ...
I also wrapped the thinnest wire with copper thread and blackened it, the same result, but it looked even crappier.
After many attempts, I decided to use an imitation with 3 layers of white glue and black paint for the dressing of the thin ropes.
Then it was on to the impressive head gear. First comes the collar for the bobstay, then starboard and then port shroud and in front of that the stays of the foremast. Three of these rows of cleats have to be filled.
The hearts were tied into the stays using the same binding principle as the thimbles.
I still had to feel my way around the first one ...
... and the next ones went very quickly
The tying of the collars was again a good fiddling job, because the lanyard does not slip easily or even out. You just have to get it right from the start.
But when I thought that was fiddling, open-heart surgery was performed, even though these hearts were closed: The tying of the lanyards into the hearts. Because the hearts only have one big opening with 4 grooves and no separate holes, you have to secure the rope with glue after each new loop so that the lanyard doesn't jump out of the groove again.
But once you've done that, the sight is just sharp
This was the first of the 3 collars, two more to go
XXXDAn
And the adventure continued.
Many attempts were made to dress the thin ropes: first rope wrapped in the classic way, various diameter combinations, resulting in extremely high workload, extremely high rejects, when bending around the blocks the tapes broke open and above all: it looked like crap somehow ...
I also wrapped the thinnest wire with copper thread and blackened it, the same result, but it looked even crappier.
After many attempts, I decided to use an imitation with 3 layers of white glue and black paint for the dressing of the thin ropes.
Then it was on to the impressive head gear. First comes the collar for the bobstay, then starboard and then port shroud and in front of that the stays of the foremast. Three of these rows of cleats have to be filled.
The hearts were tied into the stays using the same binding principle as the thimbles.
I still had to feel my way around the first one ...
... and the next ones went very quickly
The tying of the collars was again a good fiddling job, because the lanyard does not slip easily or even out. You just have to get it right from the start.
But when I thought that was fiddling, open-heart surgery was performed, even though these hearts were closed: The tying of the lanyards into the hearts. Because the hearts only have one big opening with 4 grooves and no separate holes, you have to secure the rope with glue after each new loop so that the lanyard doesn't jump out of the groove again.
But once you've done that, the sight is just sharp
This was the first of the 3 collars, two more to go
XXXDAn
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- Mar 18, 2021
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The second collar conglomerate was quickly done, the third - the foremost one - bobstay was exciting again. There are 2 versions here.
First, in white yarn, a temporary test version like the one McKay shows in his book. The doubled stay goes down to the cutwater, is tied together there and then goes left and right to the hull.
It used to be shown like this on the Vic in P. I assume this is how the pulling force is distributed better among other stable components.
Alternatively, there is also the variant where the 3 stays on top of each other all go to the cutwater. During the last renovation the Vic in P. was also converted in this way.
The attachment points of the bobstays at the top of the bowsprit are well documented. Only the attachment to the cutwater is not. In later years, only the variant with the 3 superimposed holes was found, also due to the feedback from @Morgan, who knows the Vic around 1803 best, I tend towards this solution, which I also prefer, as it was last shown on the Vic in P.
So the white test stay was cut off and the third hole drilled. The heart is tied into the stay in such a way that one leg ends exactly under the binding and the other is more than twice as long.
Then I threaded the stay through the hole, averaged out the length and glued it to the top of the heart just below the other end and then put the binding over the intersection.
Then I put the binding at the bottom of the stay, so that I can even out the length of the two legs if one side is a bit loose.
Afterwards, as usual, I replaced the white tackle at the top with the final lanyard, which has become quite fast work by now
And here are a few more views of the collar conglomerate. Now the forestay and the preventer forestay are missing, each sitting in front of the two inner collar rings.
XXXDAn
First, in white yarn, a temporary test version like the one McKay shows in his book. The doubled stay goes down to the cutwater, is tied together there and then goes left and right to the hull.
It used to be shown like this on the Vic in P. I assume this is how the pulling force is distributed better among other stable components.
Alternatively, there is also the variant where the 3 stays on top of each other all go to the cutwater. During the last renovation the Vic in P. was also converted in this way.
The attachment points of the bobstays at the top of the bowsprit are well documented. Only the attachment to the cutwater is not. In later years, only the variant with the 3 superimposed holes was found, also due to the feedback from @Morgan, who knows the Vic around 1803 best, I tend towards this solution, which I also prefer, as it was last shown on the Vic in P.
So the white test stay was cut off and the third hole drilled. The heart is tied into the stay in such a way that one leg ends exactly under the binding and the other is more than twice as long.
Then I threaded the stay through the hole, averaged out the length and glued it to the top of the heart just below the other end and then put the binding over the intersection.
Then I put the binding at the bottom of the stay, so that I can even out the length of the two legs if one side is a bit loose.
Afterwards, as usual, I replaced the white tackle at the top with the final lanyard, which has become quite fast work by now
And here are a few more views of the collar conglomerate. Now the forestay and the preventer forestay are missing, each sitting in front of the two inner collar rings.
XXXDAn
Now I am looking forward how you make the sand in correct scale?A little project in between, the Vic's fire buckets on the railing of the cabin deck.
And since the good pieces are made of leather and not metal, I gave them a little deformation as a little dafinistic touch.
XXXDAn
As I understood fire buckets (aslo often used in other areas later on f.e. petrol stations) are filled with sand or water.
For me it would be not logic, that a tool like these buckets woulnd not be permanently filled with sand, otherwise you can not fight against a fire.
For me these fire buckets were everytime in use, just waiting for a fire and be ready when there is a fire to be fought......
I have to check my library, if there is somewhere a written information
Not contemporary, but still a law in UK
(2) Except in open ships, fire buckets provided in compliance with these Regulations shall not be used for any purpose other than extinguishing fire.
www.legislation.gov.uk
For me it would be not logic, that a tool like these buckets woulnd not be permanently filled with sand, otherwise you can not fight against a fire.
For me these fire buckets were everytime in use, just waiting for a fire and be ready when there is a fire to be fought......
I have to check my library, if there is somewhere a written information
Not contemporary, but still a law in UK
The Merchant Shipping (Fire Protection: Small Ships) Regulations 1998
You are here:
- UK Statutory Instruments
- 1998 No. 1011
- PART V—
- GENERAL
- Regulation 36
Fire buckets
36.—(1) Every fire bucket provided in compliance with these Regulations shall be painted red and shall be clearly and permanently marked with the word “FIRE”. Except in open ships every such fire bucket shall be kept filled with sand or water.(2) Except in open ships, fire buckets provided in compliance with these Regulations shall not be used for any purpose other than extinguishing fire.
The Merchant Shipping (Fire Protection: Small Ships) Regulations 1998
These Regulations consolidate requirements in respect of ships of Class II(A) of less than 21.34 metres, Classes III to VI(A), and Classes VII to IX, XI and XII of under 500 tons which were contained in the Merchant Shipping (Fire Appliances) Regulations 1980 (S.I. 1980/544) as amended, the...
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 210
- Points
- 253
As always, first check whether plans show really can be. You should. Really.
Somehow it seemed strange to me that the jeers block had a double strop at the top and a single strop underneath the binding.
What to do with the two unused ends? No use, or not much use. So I looked in other literature and, lo and behold, everywhere a double strop is shown at the bottom. Makes sense.
So I tore off the wrong strop and glued on the double strop with the right lengths, in one groove the rope for the two shorter legs, in the other the rope for the two long ones.
Then made the seizing that holds all 4 ends together.
Then tied in the eyes for the shorter legs.
And then the ones for the long legs.
And suddenly ...
... the model parts come to life ;-)
XXXDAn
Somehow it seemed strange to me that the jeers block had a double strop at the top and a single strop underneath the binding.
What to do with the two unused ends? No use, or not much use. So I looked in other literature and, lo and behold, everywhere a double strop is shown at the bottom. Makes sense.
So I tore off the wrong strop and glued on the double strop with the right lengths, in one groove the rope for the two shorter legs, in the other the rope for the two long ones.
Then made the seizing that holds all 4 ends together.
Then tied in the eyes for the shorter legs.
And then the ones for the long legs.
And suddenly ...
... the model parts come to life ;-)
XXXDAn
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 210
- Points
- 253
Firstly, I'm stupid and secondly, I need glasses ...
Thanks to the many tips from modelling friends, I know that I had misinterpreted McKay's drawing. Of course it is correct
So here comes another demolition.
In the meantime, I no longer print the blocks sorted by type but by yard. There are still some blocks missing, but 2 of these sets contain everything for the main yard.
Slowly it is routine and goes quickly by hand, glueing one rope into the groove of the block ...
... then the second one into the other, so that the short ends are diagonally opposite each other.
Then the whole thing into the holding device, a drop of superglue in the middle and press them together vertically ...
... and horizontally with a pair of strong tweezers.
Then tie a safety knot close to the block.
Then cut the short ends as short as possible.
Then set the averaged length for the short loop, bring the rope to length, and fix it with a drop of glue and press it together again with the tweezers.
Check length.
Adjust long loop and do the same.
Then the whole thing should already be stable enough to make a trial fit at the place of use - here it is fitting.
Then, with the specified distance of 4 mm from the block, set a knot with long enough ends for the binding and then line up normal knots close together alternately at the top and bottom all the way up to the block. It's quick and, unlike the standard wrapping, nothing slips out of place.
Add a little paint to defuse the white glue spots ...
... and two neat block strops are ready.
Still tying up the lanyard ...
... set the whole thing in place and sew in the lashing with a needle. The inner lying sheet block had already found its way to the yard
After that, it was the turn of the clew garnet blocks.
And then one can recoice
Hopefully it fits this time
XXXDAn
Thanks to the many tips from modelling friends, I know that I had misinterpreted McKay's drawing. Of course it is correct
So here comes another demolition.
In the meantime, I no longer print the blocks sorted by type but by yard. There are still some blocks missing, but 2 of these sets contain everything for the main yard.
Slowly it is routine and goes quickly by hand, glueing one rope into the groove of the block ...
... then the second one into the other, so that the short ends are diagonally opposite each other.
Then the whole thing into the holding device, a drop of superglue in the middle and press them together vertically ...
... and horizontally with a pair of strong tweezers.
Then tie a safety knot close to the block.
Then cut the short ends as short as possible.
Then set the averaged length for the short loop, bring the rope to length, and fix it with a drop of glue and press it together again with the tweezers.
Check length.
Adjust long loop and do the same.
Then the whole thing should already be stable enough to make a trial fit at the place of use - here it is fitting.
Then, with the specified distance of 4 mm from the block, set a knot with long enough ends for the binding and then line up normal knots close together alternately at the top and bottom all the way up to the block. It's quick and, unlike the standard wrapping, nothing slips out of place.
Add a little paint to defuse the white glue spots ...
... and two neat block strops are ready.
Still tying up the lanyard ...
... set the whole thing in place and sew in the lashing with a needle. The inner lying sheet block had already found its way to the yard
After that, it was the turn of the clew garnet blocks.
And then one can recoice
Hopefully it fits this time
XXXDAn
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Looks like he has flags one and six ready to hoist. No.16 - Nelson's last signal " Engage the enemy more closely".In the meantime, Lieutenant John Pasco and his assistant have also arrived at their workplace on the poop deck. The canvas curtains in front of the flag lockers have been drawn back ...
... but oh horror, they are all empty!
So quickly placed a bulk order of the current signal flags, 64 pieces, carved from 1.5 x 1.5 mm plastic strip, about 2 mm long, in the colors of the 1803 signal flags.
Then covered the hull so no one would get hit by falling flags in the gunroom ...
... and generously assisted him in filling it.
One more brief inspection of the result ...
... the flags at the top of the locker secured with weight bags to prevent them from flying away ...
... and he can prepare his flags well ...
... for, after all, it will be him who will translate Nelson's pre-battle greetings to his fleet into usable signals:
"England expects that every man will do his duty."
XXXDAn
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The big sailing ship exhibition in Amsterdam is getting closer, I'm already looking forward to it. I'm going there this weekend and on Saturday my little one will be able to present herself and her bee stripes at the Naval Museum in Amsterdam. Maybe one or the other can come to visit at short notice, I think it will be bombastic. This special location, almost 130 running metres of exhibit tables with over 250 sailing ship models. WOW!
Time to stay? No, time for the stays.
The pictures of the Invincible wreck beautifully show that the mainstay and forestay and associated preventer stays were dressed differently. The main and forestay were wormed along their entire length. Only in the area of the mouse and the masthead was it was served. The preventer stays weres also fully served in the area of the mouse and masthead, but not wormed along its length.
It's not often that you find mice with hearts, so I don't want to deprive you ;-)
Pictures of the Invincible 1745-websites.
So it was off to the serving machine, first worming the stays.
You can see that the cable - which consists of several beaten ropes - now looks much rounder and more even.
I used the serving machine also for serving itself. For this I took 3/0 fly fishing yarn, it fluffs up just like tooth floss, so you can easily overlap windings. After that I used white glue to smooth surface more and some black paint for the surface appearance. Here a picture of the seam between wormed and served.
For the eye, I cut the cable diagonally and glued it on, and dressed the glued area with fly fishing thread. It is quite stabe like this.
And then came the mouse. First wound ...
... then glued ...
... and then homogenised with black.
And at the place it looks like this.
Classically, one mouse on the left, one on the right.
The shrouds still belong under the stay, but I haven't got that far yet. That's why I'll just take the stays off again and put them on top as soon as I'm ready.
XXXDAn
Time to stay? No, time for the stays.
The pictures of the Invincible wreck beautifully show that the mainstay and forestay and associated preventer stays were dressed differently. The main and forestay were wormed along their entire length. Only in the area of the mouse and the masthead was it was served. The preventer stays weres also fully served in the area of the mouse and masthead, but not wormed along its length.
It's not often that you find mice with hearts, so I don't want to deprive you ;-)
Pictures of the Invincible 1745-websites.
So it was off to the serving machine, first worming the stays.
You can see that the cable - which consists of several beaten ropes - now looks much rounder and more even.
I used the serving machine also for serving itself. For this I took 3/0 fly fishing yarn, it fluffs up just like tooth floss, so you can easily overlap windings. After that I used white glue to smooth surface more and some black paint for the surface appearance. Here a picture of the seam between wormed and served.
For the eye, I cut the cable diagonally and glued it on, and dressed the glued area with fly fishing thread. It is quite stabe like this.
And then came the mouse. First wound ...
... then glued ...
... and then homogenised with black.
And at the place it looks like this.
Classically, one mouse on the left, one on the right.
The shrouds still belong under the stay, but I haven't got that far yet. That's why I'll just take the stays off again and put them on top as soon as I'm ready.
XXXDAn