I suppose, if you decide to cut them to length, you could run the cross-section through 12" mitre saw (widow maker). Just kidding.
Excellent work as always.
USS BONHOMME RICHARD - POF - Cross Section in Pear - 1:48 - by Uwe
Excellent work as always.
Many Thanks to all for your comments, suggestions and also the likes received - much appreciated
For preparation (and dry fit) I prepared the next (and last) beams - one of the next steps will also be the cutting of the frames in order to get the final form of the hull.
For this I will need the final level of the deck
The appr. cutting line of the frames is marked with a pencil
in addition I was able to make the jeer bitts with four wooden sheaves, mounted on a brass axis - now I am able to finalize also the area around the stairs etc.
Many thanks for visiting my log and your interest .... to be continued .....
For preparation (and dry fit) I prepared the next (and last) beams - one of the next steps will also be the cutting of the frames in order to get the final form of the hull.
For this I will need the final level of the deck
The appr. cutting line of the frames is marked with a pencil
in addition I was able to make the jeer bitts with four wooden sheaves, mounted on a brass axis - now I am able to finalize also the area around the stairs etc.
Many thanks for visiting my log and your interest .... to be continued .....
It is really looking good Uwe.
Well done mate.
Well done mate.
Fantastic
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Uwe, if you have more wine at your gatherings, maybe the look of the ends won't matter!
Yesterday evening I was think about to leave the other sheer bitts like they are, or also to install "real" sheaves
The imagination of sheaves was not bad, and if ropes would go through nobody would recognize
but I compared it with the other one I did last weeken
I decided to do it also and install in the slots wooden sheaves.
Honestly I do not really know, if at this time already metal sheaves were used, or wooden sheaves!
Maybe somebody knows the historical correct technical information???.......
Often modeler are using sheaves out of brass, which I could have done also, but I decided to try to make such wooden wheels without any special power tools.
In the following I want to show my way how I did it in the different working steps, so somebody else could use the same method, or tell us a better way - open for suggestions, comments and critics as always
Making of wooden sheaves:
cut out the slots with a 1mm wide small chisel - I love these small chisels, which are often in use in my workshop
close up of the slots
as base material I used a round rod and cut with the saw some disks
drilling the center holes - the metal screw etc. you know very well from Proxxon or Dremel, usually used for a circular saw or grinding blade
one disk fixed
The Proxxon drill is horizontal fixed in a drill stand - sanding the surface of the disk with running the drill
afterwards I used a round file and sanded the recess
four pieces prepared with the recesses, but still too thick to match into the slots
after some (hand) sanding they got the correct thickness to fit into the slots
and the final result
Here you can switch between the two versions - I think it was worth to do so
Many Thanks for your interest - HAPPY MODELING
The imagination of sheaves was not bad, and if ropes would go through nobody would recognize
but I compared it with the other one I did last weeken
I decided to do it also and install in the slots wooden sheaves.
Honestly I do not really know, if at this time already metal sheaves were used, or wooden sheaves!
Maybe somebody knows the historical correct technical information???.......
Often modeler are using sheaves out of brass, which I could have done also, but I decided to try to make such wooden wheels without any special power tools.
In the following I want to show my way how I did it in the different working steps, so somebody else could use the same method, or tell us a better way - open for suggestions, comments and critics as always
Making of wooden sheaves:
cut out the slots with a 1mm wide small chisel - I love these small chisels, which are often in use in my workshop
close up of the slots
as base material I used a round rod and cut with the saw some disks
drilling the center holes - the metal screw etc. you know very well from Proxxon or Dremel, usually used for a circular saw or grinding blade
one disk fixed
The Proxxon drill is horizontal fixed in a drill stand - sanding the surface of the disk with running the drill
afterwards I used a round file and sanded the recess
four pieces prepared with the recesses, but still too thick to match into the slots
after some (hand) sanding they got the correct thickness to fit into the slots
and the final result
Here you can switch between the two versions - I think it was worth to do so
Many Thanks for your interest - HAPPY MODELING
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Yes, it looks very good with real pulleys installed!
But as you said, when rigging is installed, will you be able to see the pulleys at all?
Maybe just do a temporary rigging install to see what the would look like and compare them with threads installed.
But as you said, when rigging is installed, will you be able to see the pulleys at all?
Maybe just do a temporary rigging install to see what the would look like and compare them with threads installed.
There will be no rigging on this section, without Mast and yards...... maybe only some „deco“ rigging ..... i will see
Hi Uwe,
Love your wooden sheaves.
As far as I know sheaves were from brass or Lignum vitae, which we call in Dutch pokhout.
Pokhout is a tropical self lubricating hardwood.
From what period it was used I don t know but in Vasa there are already brass sheaves in use. For your time frame it should be more then ok.
Love your wooden sheaves.
As far as I know sheaves were from brass or Lignum vitae, which we call in Dutch pokhout.
Pokhout is a tropical self lubricating hardwood.
From what period it was used I don t know but in Vasa there are already brass sheaves in use. For your time frame it should be more then ok.
Hello Uwe,
I would replace the rollers against burnished brass castors.
Ich würde die Seilrollen gegen brünierte Messingrollen austauschen,
oder wenigstens schwärzen.
Von diesem Bauabschnitt meiner BH habe ich leider kein Foto,
ersatzweise dieses Foto von Alain Wernimont.
Karl
I would replace the rollers against burnished brass castors.
Ich würde die Seilrollen gegen brünierte Messingrollen austauschen,
oder wenigstens schwärzen.
Von diesem Bauabschnitt meiner BH habe ich leider kein Foto,
ersatzweise dieses Foto von Alain Wernimont.
Karl
Thanks for showing. It looks more better with the sheaves. You have to check the diameter on the both outside, maybe there is no space for the rope. It looks a little bit tightly. Karl maybe is not wrong. In the third 74-Book Page 117 - 123 are shown sheaves in bronze. For the Bonhomme Richard it should also be correct. The Mono should clear this point.
Thanks for the tutorial. I can't believe you actually manually chiseled out openings for sheaves. Where did you get those miniature chisels?
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2019
- Messages
- 495
- Points
- 323
Fantastic work, Uwe!and the final result
Many thanks for your kind words......
For the standard work I use the chisels from Hasegawa, which I used for these slots
Plane and Chisels ?
Ok making my list of things I need to take the plunge to wood. About the only things I need are a good quailty plane and a chisel set. I know Micro Mark and Model Expo tool quality is sometimes questionable. Are there any US modeling tool suppliers that carry better quailty woodworking tools...
shipsofscale.com
Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here
I hve one of these its great. You will need a fan to blow away dust. Dead easy to use and pack up. just go slow on cutting.
shipsofscale.com
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2020
- Messages
- 48
- Points
- 93
I am enjoying following your build. Is there a reason for installing the shot locker window with the sliding shutter on the opposite side to the way its shown on the drawings?
Many Thanks for the interest - there was only one reason -> Mistake and Error !!! well seen !!!!
I was looking at an other building log and the photos there and was not checking the drawings in detail - when it happened it was too late to change the location
And also btw a warm welcome here on board of our forum !!! Do you also build this kit model?
If yes, why not showing it here in our forum - would be great to see another one
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2020
- Messages
- 48
- Points
- 93
Yes, I am building a version of the model and realised I made a mistake with the shot locker - I used the 2mm thick timber for the walls and I did not have enough for the cabin sides. I used the 1mm timber instead. It still looks ok.
Think about - to show yours also in a building log - with these logs others can get more information and also impression how to make the model and maybe bash it.....would be great