USS BONHOMME RICHARD - POF - Cross Section in Pear - 1:48 - by Uwe

Hello Uwe,
fascinating model and excellent start. Ladies files - I always buy them at DM (Drogeriemarkt) they have files from ebelin in different qualities. I like the ones with the smooth and sharp side best, they are flexible and cheap, the only disadvantage is, they are soon worn out in permanent use.

Greetings
Michael

P.S.
Thanks at all for the kind birthday wishes.
 
Hi Uwe,
Just a quick question.
Do you get the base/stand as shown in the picture below in the kit?

View attachment 113349
I am not 100% sure, because I did not check the quantity of the wooden strips until now -
But I do not think, that the material is included, definitely no plate added.
 
Hello Uwe,
fascinating model and excellent start. Ladies files - I always buy them at DM (Drogeriemarkt) they have files from ebelin in different qualities. I like the ones with the smooth and sharp side best, they are flexible and cheap, the only disadvantage is, they are soon worn out in permanent use.

Greetings
Michael

P.S.
Thanks at all for the kind birthday wishes.
Hallo Michael,
many thanks for the additional information and will try once these ladies files
For the need now, for removing the char inside these joints of the elements, the tool has to be stiff, in order not to change angles etc.
But in other situation I am sure, they will work - :cool:
 
Good progress Uwe.It is a shame that drawings are not provided for each frame in the kit.Indeed all will be slightly different.Looking at your pic of the Monograph framing plan,point M is dead flat,that is not even included in the section modelled,so the section will taper from one end to the other.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Good progress Uwe.It is a shame that drawings are not provided for each frame in the kit.Indeed all will be slightly different.

Yes you are right - this would be usually no problem and would help the modelers very much - especially there is either in the manual or in the drawings an information about different form of the frames - Here Unicorn should add these 9 sketches for preparation of the frames Exclamation-Mark

Looking at your pic of the Monograph framing plan,point M is dead flat,that is not even included in the section modelled,so the section will taper from one end to the other.
Kind Regards
Nigel

You are right once more - here is the line drawing with the approximate markings of the section - Frame 1 is very close to M

IMG_394711.jpg
 
The assembly of the frame' pieces of this model is very ... "exotic" and far from realities.

GD
Many thanks for the comment and clarification. I completely agree here - and it makes the work more complicated
-> Usually a normal butt joint would be necessary or correct, than definitely it would be necessary to have a drawing for every frame
 
G'day Uwe, I think that maybe their are so confident with the way the kit has been designed that everything will go together OK,
if you look at the first page in build manual they just show the frames, and I think they are saying this is how to glue them together,
there is no drawing under the frames,

A.jpg

I have been itching to start this model or rather models as I have two of them, so I thought that I would
try the way they show,
I will be starting a build log soon, sorry for hijacking your thread,

11.jpg
Started by gluing up the floors on a piece of white cardboard, this is frame nine,


12.jpg
Then added the futtocks etc,


13.jpg
the frames fit together OK,


14.jpg



7.jpg
and I clamped the joins as I went,

8.jpg
after the glue has dried,

9.jpg
and sitting in the jig, no force was needed it just slipped in nicely, I have now built five frames for a total of approx
three hours, hope you do not mind me posting this on your log,

best regards John,

.
 
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G'day Uwe, I think that maybe their are so confident with the way the kit has been designed that everything will go together OK,
if you look at the first page in build manual they just show the frames, and I think they are saying this is how to glue them together,
there is no drawing under the frames,

View attachment 113713

I have been itching to start this model or rather models as I have two of them, so I thought that I would
try the way they show,
I will be starting a build log soon, sorry for hijacking your thread,

View attachment 113714
Started by gluing up the floors on a piece of white cardboard, this is frame nine,


View attachment 113715
Then added the futtocks etc,


View attachment 113716
the frames fit together OK,


View attachment 113717



View attachment 113718
and I clamped the joins as I went,

View attachment 113719
after the glue has dried,

View attachment 113720
and sitting in the jig, no force was needed it just slipped in nicely, I have now built five frames for a total of approx
three hours, hope you do not mind me posting this on your log,

best regards John,

.
For everyone, who want to take a look at John´s building log of his Cherry-version of this section of the Bonhomme Richard, please take a look and use this link.
Very interesting and to follow is highly recommended:

 
After a very busy business week (inclusive a trip to Prague) and no work on the Bonhomme Richard, I had yesterday the chance to finalize the last two frames and made also the first char sanding of the outer and inner sides of the frames.

In the following you can see the nine double frames temporary installed in the jig.
You will recognize, that the frames 8 and 9 are not extremely sanded, this I want to do later, due to the needs for an accurately beveling.
The small 8 strips between the frames are only temporary and are a content of the kit, these are "only" temporary spacers between the frames.

IMG_40861.jpg

IMG_40871.jpg

IMG_40881.jpg

IMG_40891.jpg

The nine frames outside of the jig (sorry for the blur)

IMG_40901.jpg

With this perspective you can see good the different form of the frames, the frames are following the lines of the ship
IMG_40911.jpg
 
For everyone, who want to take a look at John´s building log of his Cherry-version of this section of the Bonhomme Richard, please take a look and use this link.
Very interesting and to follow is highly recommended:



Thanks again for your kind comments, it is going to be interesting to compare how we both work on these kits, also now that i have my log running you can if you want delete the pics I posted up above on your log so it is not so cluttered and thank you for adding a link to my log,

best regards john,
 
John explained in his building log, that

View attachment 114129
I was not too happy with the keel made up from all the pieces, so i had a nice piece of Pear and I cut new
keels out of that and to save a little bit of messing around I am just going to leave it flat on the top,

View attachment 114130
Because I was leaving the keel flat on the top I had to file away the step inside the frame so it would
sit nicely on the keel,

View attachment 114131
the frame just sitting on the keel,

I decided yesterday, that I want to try first of all the original way, with the steps at each double frame - indeed, this detail will be not visible any more, when the frames are sitting on top of the keel, but you can see the eight small spacers on top of the deadwood between the double frames.
So I started to prepare the joints, in order to get the frames sitting flat on the keel deadwood and also rectangular. Here the status of four prepared frames

IMG_40981.jpg

IMG_40971.jpg

to be continued .......
 
BTW: It is really very positive, either for me and John, but also for the members following our two building logs, to see the different ways and partly construction methods to solve the upcoming tasks of such a kit model.
So every model is somehow different -> very interesting to follow in my opinion :cool:
 
Yesterday I finalized the preparation of every single step on the deadwood of the keel, so that the frames fit very good on top of the keel
The floor timbers of the the frames are now all on the same height compared to the keel

IMG_40991.jpg

IMG_41001.jpg

IMG_41011.jpg

The next working step was to prepare the notches on every frame, so that the false keel will fit.

IMG_41021.jpg

IMG_41031.jpg

IMG_41041.jpg

In moment is dry fitted, before I permanently fix it with glue, I want to remove the char on the frames next to keel and false keel.
Later on, it would be more complicated

To be continued .....
 
Ciao, ottimo lavoro, una cosa non ho capito, ma i pezzi li tagli tu al laser oppure è un kit? Scusa la mia ignoranza :)

google translation:
Hi, great job, one thing I didn't understand, but you cut the pieces to the laser or is it a kit? Excuse my ignorance
 
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