Hey, thank you very very much.... So I have to paint the eyebolts in white....
What is the function of the rope?
Marc
What is the function of the rope?
Marc
The second time I get caught? However they are also drawn on the plans supplied with the kit....
They weren't on the Sept 1931 US Navy Plan No. 24422, the latest plan I have that's available to the public as far as I know. But, they are there on the actual ship now. Interesting that the MS model plan has the eyebolts which is based on the 1927 restoration which doesn't indicate those eyebolts. In my case, because my model is based on the ship as she is configured presently, I will install those eyebolts.
Yes, it's confusing..... I'm just a stupid Belgian....
Hi everyone.I would not mind trying a 3D printer, but I hate to say, I would not know what brand, unit, or whatever to buy that would be best suited for shipbuilding. Sadly, I know nearly zero about them. I could do some googling on my own, but I am sure there are so many brands. I know that micromark.com sells them as well as Amazon. But like anything else, I don't know where to begin. I guess the reason is that from the beginning, I had no interest in 3D printing - obviously, that would help matters more than anything -
So, off to YouTube land to see some beginner tutorials !!
It looks like I have stirred up a bit of interest in 3D printing. Unfortunately I only have a little experience but I have learnt a lot in that time. Printing things is quite easy just download a 3D model, convert it into a "gcode" file and print away. In the beginning my biggest problems where getting the parts to stick to the table and supporting the overhanging parts.
I only have experience with my printer which is an Ender3 V2 which is recommended as a good entry level printer. A good way to get into 3D printing is to buy a used one, you will save a few hundred dollars and when it comes time to pass it on you'll get most of your money back.
Now the bad part, there's thousands of projects to download on the web. Which is great fun to play with but nothing for ship modelling. To make your own parts you need to be able to produce a 3D model, this is where CAD comes in. I tried a few programs and Freecad is the one I use, It's a steep learning curve to produce your first 3D model. It's a good idea to learn some CAD before getting a printer. If you are buying the printer to make your own parts a basic understanding of CAD is essential.
I've nearly finished my next project, it started as a jig to help make the window frames and evolved into attempting to print the frames. Once it's finished I'll run through the stages of making a 3D model.
Happy New Year everyone.
Before I run through making a 3D model please remember I've still got a lot to learn myself there's most probably better ways of using this software.
Freecad starts off with a 2d drawing which is changed to 3D with the Pad command.
Once all the dimensions are added the drawing turns green and it can be made 3D. This is the outside of my window.
Before I make it 3D I added the window frames. The dimensions are hidden to make the picture clearer.
This is a 3D view of the drawing.
With the pad command I've made the thickness 2mm.
2mm is to thick for the inside frames, this can be reduce by drawing a box around the frames to be made thinner.
Using the pocket command a 1mm pocket reduced the thickness, it looks much better like this.
I wanted to add a sill at the bottom again draw a box where it's located.
Again using Pad a 1mm sill is produced.
Last part 2 chamfers have been added.
Finished. Now export the file so it can be converted into a 3D printer program.
Tony
Before I run through making a 3D model please remember I've still got a lot to learn myself there's most probably better ways of using this software.
Freecad starts off with a 2d drawing which is changed to 3D with the Pad command.
Once all the dimensions are added the drawing turns green and it can be made 3D. This is the outside of my window.
Before I make it 3D I added the window frames. The dimensions are hidden to make the picture clearer.
This is a 3D view of the drawing.
With the pad command I've made the thickness 2mm.
2mm is to thick for the inside frames, this can be reduce by drawing a box around the frames to be made thinner.
Using the pocket command a 1mm pocket reduced the thickness, it looks much better like this.
I wanted to add a sill at the bottom again draw a box where it's located.
Again using Pad a 1mm sill is produced.
Last part 2 chamfers have been added.
Finished. Now export the file so it can be converted into a 3D printer program.
Tony
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Hi,
Do you use a resin type or filament type 3D printer?
Do you use a resin type or filament type 3D printer?
Part 2
Now we have a 3D model it has to be converted to a "gcode" file. The program is known as a slicer as it takes the model and slices it into layers for the printer.
Frist open the exported file, it will appear in the middle of the table.
A number of things can be done with this program in this case I've multiplied the part by 3. Now press slice.
Before saving the print can be previewed this is the bottom layer.
And these are the top layers. If everything looks OK save the new file and Start printing.
After a few failed attempts making these from wood this could be my best option.
Tony
Now we have a 3D model it has to be converted to a "gcode" file. The program is known as a slicer as it takes the model and slices it into layers for the printer.
Frist open the exported file, it will appear in the middle of the table.
A number of things can be done with this program in this case I've multiplied the part by 3. Now press slice.
Before saving the print can be previewed this is the bottom layer.
And these are the top layers. If everything looks OK save the new file and Start printing.
After a few failed attempts making these from wood this could be my best option.
Tony
My printer uses filament, maybe one day I'll get a resin printer they look very impressive.
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and do you find that you get acceptable results for printing small parts? The reason I am asking is because I am trying to figure out what type of printer to get.
It is my understanding that resin printers are superior to filament printers when it comes to small parts?
Having said that, however, I see your latest post showing the final result of printing your windows. They look good. So maybe that is the answer to my question.
I think with resin printers you also have to buy a curing and washing station, which is another 200$ CAD.
Hi Tony, from my very rudimentary understanding, you get more detail (such as sharper corners) from resin printers, the tradeoff is that resin is much more brittle than filament printed objects. You look like your well on your way to success though.
Very impressive. And, if you need to make corrections, you don't have to start all over from the beginning. Which brings me to this point. As I see it, each window is identical to the next. (On the opposing side of the model , it's mirror image). However, the windows are not identical to each other nor do they have the same dimensions on top of the window as the bottom. Each of the three windows are unique. This was one of the problems I encountered when I was trying to make the windows. Have you discovered any difficulties installing your windows?
Ahoy all, former sailor here. I spent 10 years serving in the navy, I was able to visit Old Ironsides 4 times. While serving I had hoped to make a career of the navy and reach the rank of Chief Petty Officer. There was an elite program for prospective chiefs (selectee) to serve aboard the Constitution, I wanted to be of that class of sailor. Alas this didn't happen. I had bought this model in Boston while visiting on a port call to Newport. I had only gotten so far as building the skeleton. But while transfering from Virginia to Florida the model was destroyed and the package the rest of the build was in was lost.
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Ahoy all, former sailor here. I spent 10 years serving in the navy, I was able to visit Old Ironsides 4 times. While serving I had hoped to make a career of the navy and reach the rank of Chief Petty Officer. There was an elite program for prospective chiefs (selectee) to serve aboard the Constitution, I wanted to be of that class of sailor. Alas this didn't happen. I had bought this model in Boston while visiting on a port call to Newport. I had only gotten so far as building the skeleton. But while transfering from Virginia to Florida the model was
This attempt to post a reply is doing weird technical things, but I' give it a shot. That original attempt of yours may be lost, but you aren't. Barring physical deterrents, why not give it another go? Maybe even with an old Scientific Models vintage kit from E-Bay? They're way cheaper, smaller, easier and suitable for kit bashing if you are inclined to improve upon what's in the box.
destroyed and the package the rest of the build was in was lost.
Thank you, I have already ordered the 1:76 scale model. And I'm looking into Bob Hunts practicum.
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I'm glad your urge to build the model didn't get lost with your original effort.
Dear Tony,
My very best wishes for 2024.
It looks like you've created a new global standard for model building!
Will you develop your own kits?
It's unbelievable what you've accomplished!
And I was already happy with my 2nd attempt... My effort disappears into nothing... compared to yours...
I'm no expert myself from what I've seen resin is a more complex process, it has to be cured and cleaned after printing. It also cost a lot more for the equipment and consumables. On the plus side the results are very much better.
I wouldn't get a resin printer before gaining experience with filament. When I started making my own parts there was a lot of trial and error. It's surprising how much filament I've used in the past month.
We have recently moved house I put off starting my Constitution until the move was over. Good luck with the new model.