Now I see, thanks Paul you just solved a major mystery for me.Hey Daniel. From Mondfeld:
View attachment 282738
Beats me if it's correct. I just make the teeth straight (and make the shrouds too short).
Now I see, thanks Paul you just solved a major mystery for me.Hey Daniel. From Mondfeld:
View attachment 282738
Beats me if it's correct. I just make the teeth straight (and make the shrouds too short).
Paul that is horrid and for you to still see some laughter there in...says heaps.Hey Daniel. From Mondfeld:
View attachment 282738
Beats me if it's correct. I just make the teeth straight (and make the shrouds too short).
Now I see, thanks Paul you just solved a major mystery for me.
A friend who is a "marine archaeologist"told me re.rigging to consider the force needed the angles involved and what you would do in full size and that will be pretty close to correct.Following on from a re-read of your post Paul in Hubac’s comment, it is revealing to me that there are no final solutions when it comes to rigging. There can be guidance (eg Anderson’s book), there can be good examples of how to do things (eg Build Logs by others), but in the end, after your research and personal decision-making of how to do each knot, line and belay, it’s up to YOU. And furthermore, this is precisely what makes your Vasa, truly yours. It will be unique, just as mine is. No two will ever be the same, although we might strive for historical accuracy, it’s just our interpretation of our plans, kit designers and research that results in our final model.
Personally, one of my inspirations for excellent rigging (apart from your own), is the work of @moreplovac with his Brigantine Phoenix, by Master Korabel. In particular, he has detailed his rigging and sailmaking in a series (there are about 30) of YouTube videos (such as here), and these (although in Russian, are outstanding. Well worth watching.
Keep up the great work,
Regards,
PeterG
That sounds like the running backstay for the mizzen topmast, Daniel.The stays looping around the stack of shrouds. Now that is an interesting method. I would love to see what they did on the Vasa model in the museum but i cannot find any closeups in that area. My 1 to 1 plans do not indicate doing that but those plans are also in conflict in several areas of the rigging. For example, the lower shrouds on the missen show as five lines where the real ship is rigged with four and one in the middle being a running blocked and tackled line (which I will do also). Ha! I just don't know where it runs to.
Ciao Attraente , se vuoi mi mandi la Tua Email Hello Attractive, if you want to send me your email@Daniel20 - Penso che questa immagine ti darà un po' di sicurezza in più...
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Hi Kurt, I tend to agree with you on that. In fact, that is what I'll do with it unless some new data comes up, thanks.That sounds like the running backstay for the mizzen topmast, Daniel.
Thanks again Paul. The main stay is considerably larger than the shroud lines. I'm going with 1.25mm on the main shrouds but 1.3 on the mainstay so I will be considerably off in scale. I cannot make anything larger than 1.3mm and I don't want to go any smaller on the main shrouds, so I'm stuck with the scale.
And I think it just runs to the center chainplate on the channel Daniel. It may just tie off on itself or a shroud (at least I have seen that done with running backstays). Right now, my plan is to rig it like a lifting tackle with a violin block - or maybe not.Hi Kurt, I tend to agree with you on that. In fact, that is what I'll do with it unless some new data comes up, thanks.
Hi Paul,My dear model ship building colleagues. I spent the past several days re-reading your words of praise and admiration for my work and I have come to the conclusion that I am a truly special human being possessing otherworldly modeling skills. Thank you for showing me the simple truth that was right before me all this time.
As evidence - see here my latest work of inspiration: shrouds hanging loosely from the foremast...
View attachment 282727
And then (I CAN HARDLY CONTAIN MYSELF) witness these perfectly served lines!
View attachment 282728
But wait! There's more! Check out this stack around the masthead! (Take a seat if you find yourself swooning.)
View attachment 282726
Breathtaking, isn't it!
And now, for my piece-de-resistance - the deadeye rigging...
Wait for it...
Never mind. The WHOLE THING IS A TOTAL SCREWUP. The shrouds are too %#$@*&%^ short and I have to start all over again...
He, he, he. Never let it be said that I take myself too seriously...
I have larger right-hand rope Daniel - I'll send you some if you like. I have made 1.4 and 1.8 (both nominal sizes). I'm actually working on 1.6 for my main stay but haven't figured out the formula yet (I am building at 1:65). Your main mast lower shroud sounds too big - I'm thinking closer to 0.8.Thanks again Paul. The main stay is considerably larger than the shroud lines. I'm going with 1.25mm on the main shrouds but 1.3 on the mainstay so I will be considerably off in scale. I cannot make anything larger than 1.3mm and I don't want to go any smaller on the main shrouds, so I'm stuck with the scale.
Thanks for the offer, Paul but it just dawned on me I can combine some of my 0.5mm and come up with larger than 1.3mm. I will stay with 1.25 on the main, which is slightly too big and drop back to 1.0 on the fore and mizzen shrouds, which also both are a little too big, but I wish to present them as very prominent features.I have larger right-hand rope Daniel - I'll send you some if you like. I have made 1.4 and 1.8 (both nominal sizes). I'm actually working on 1.6 for my main stay but haven't figured out the formula yet (I am building at 1:65). Your main mast lower shroud sounds too big - I'm thinking closer to 0.8.
Smart salvage work, Paul.Hello again, friends. I have now recovered from my mistake on the foremast shrouds. I managed to recycle several of the pairs by moving them from back to front but still needed to make additional longer sets to replace the ones that were too short. What caused this problem? Trying to use the least amount of rope possible. When you make, cook, and tint your own ropes the waste is painful. Of course, at the end of the day I ended up wasting rope in an effort to save rope.
For future builders - the roughed-in shrouds need to drop just below the channels (when aligned with the deadeye they run to).
As a result of my re-do I only finished one deadeye pair:
View attachment 282888
The shroud is 0.66 mm; the lanyard just about 0.36 mm. I have left the tail on the shroud long for now pending future tensioning - and the lanyard is just temporarily tied off as well.
If you would be so kind - please suggest corrections and improvements to what you see here. If I have this right, I may disappear for a while, but I'll be back when the foremast shrouds are rigged.
As always, I am humbled (and grateful) for your interest in my build.
Please. I would love to see what happened and use that information in my own build.Paul FYI - use some caution in later rigging - On my completed Vasa - over time in its case, there were too many pressure points (from where???) resulting in the foremast having pulled itself forward of vertical - yikes. Not at its base but from the topsail and topgallant areas - including the lower foremast platform angling down from horisontal . Really annoying - too complicated to fix. I can send you a PM with an image of where the problem is - Might help you later?
Regards,
You have owned this Paul. Well done on your salvage and thanks to the other contributions - learn loads from these discussions. CheersHello again, friends. I have now recovered from my mistake on the foremast shrouds. I managed to recycle several of the pairs by moving them from back to front but still needed to make additional longer sets to replace the ones that were too short. What caused this problem? Trying to use the least amount of rope possible. When you make, cook, and tint your own ropes the waste is painful. Of course, at the end of the day I ended up wasting rope in an effort to save rope.
For future builders - the roughed-in shrouds need to drop just below the channels (when aligned with the deadeye they run to).
As a result of my re-do I only finished one deadeye pair:
View attachment 282888
The shroud is 0.66 mm; the lanyard just about 0.36 mm. I have left the tail on the shroud long for now pending future tensioning - and the lanyard is just temporarily tied off as well.
If you would be so kind - please suggest corrections and improvements to what you see here. If I have this right, I may disappear for a while, but I'll be back when the foremast shrouds are rigged.
As always, I am humbled (and grateful) for your interest in my build.