Vasa Build Log - Billing Boats - Scale 1/75 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Many thanks everyone for your interest in my build...

A few comments regarding your feedback:

Maarten - Thank you for your comments regarding the rudder and its limited movement to control the ship. What you say makes sense and the sails would certainly have been used to control the ship. My observation about the rudder rotation was based on the mechanics of the linkage between the long tiller and the helmsman's control. It must have been a tricky process to control!!

Uwe - Many thanks for your encouraging words. I am not too sure that many Vasa models now would be getting the blue and gold colour scheme. You are correct that Fred Hocker and the museum have done a lot of research and excellent work. I am also amazed at the colour schemes that relate to the many figures and artwork.

Maarten and Charles: I visited the Vasamuseet in Stockholm during 2017 and it is the reason I am building the Vasa now. It is a wonderful museum and they are preserving the ship and its history with passion and accuracy - a real credit to the people involved. If you get the opportunity to visit Charles, you should definitely take make the time to visit. Gdansk museum sounds interesting too.

Sid: My first wood kit was the Billing Cutty Sark which I built many years ago. I found it a good model for the time, but now I would be critical of some of the inclusions (as it was then, in the 1980s) with plastic blocks and plastic hulled dinghies etc. I think it has probably changed a lot since those days. As for the Vasa, the Billing Boat's plans and instructions, while adequate, are not detailed. There is a significant amount of opportunity to scratch build many fixtures etc, and by so doing, the kits are improved. This is probably the case for most kit builds however. In the case of the Cutty Sark, I found the book 'The Cutty Sark' by C. Nepean Longridge (published in 1975 by MAP), to be absolutely invaluable.

In the case of the Vasa, historically, I know that the most accurate hull shapes and figures etc, have been produced by Billing Boats. I have a biased opinion of course because it is what I am familiar with. Many builds have comments about the Corel Vasa being of poor design etc, but it is an older kit. The Billing Vasa has probably now been superceded by the release of the De'Agostini Vasa kit as it a recent release and has been assisted in its design by Vasamuseet and Fred Hocker. I have never been keen on a piecemeal approach to a model (as the De'Agostini models are with mailouts once a month etc), but that is just my personal opinion. I would much rather have the entire kit to work through from the start. I can however see the logic of their approach, as it keeps the build in the correct 'order' of construction steps, but I prefer the ability to scratch a bit if I don't like some aspect of a build. We are all different...

Many thanks again,

Best Regards,

Peter G.
 
Uwek said:
Ja Ja - the good old time, when the Vasa was still blue - Fred Hocker and his team changed the world (of kit-producers) completely, when they published the changed color schema.
Very good work btw
Click to expand...
Uwe, the pigment analysis was a project which started 1990 and ended 1999. One exhibition at the Vasamuseet shows the details. A brochure "Vasa bekänner Färg" was edited and contains summaries in English. The recherche was done by Peter Tångeberg and Hans Soop. If you are interested, I can send it to you.

Cheers Alexander
 
Fabulous work Peter! Your log is thoroughly entertaining and informative,a very interesting read

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Many thanks once again gentlemen for your comments and visiting my build.

Alexander: I would be interested in seeing the brochure describing the Vasa colour research. Do you have a digital or scanned copy? any information which relates to the Vasa at the moment I am keen to acquire. The ship and its history are fascinating and after having visited the Vasamuseet in 2017, I was only stimulated more by the work being done by Fred Hocker and his research team.

Nigel: Many thanks for your complimentary words. I try and keep the tone of the Build Log light-hearted as well as informative. I see that you are building (or have built), the Sovereign of the Seas by De'Agostini. Does the approach of 'partwork' construction affect your build and are you happy with this approach? I am interested from the perspective of the partwork build approach taken to De'Agostini's Vasa kit.

Regards,

Peter G.
 
I added the 'cat' posts to support the pulleys for the weighing of the anchors on the port and starboard sides of the ship's bow. These are mounted directly to the deck and go through and under the front railing. They had to be cut into the shape of the lower rail of the railing but this is easily done by some filing and a sharp blade. The outer ends of the posts have two pulleys with a common axle and the ends of the axles are terminated by 'steel' cover plates (made using black paper and glue). The inner ends of the posts (which were shaped as per the Billing instructions) to grade down in slope to the aft, were secured by two large copper nails as shown in the photo below.

Beak_1.jpg

Having positioned the anchor support posts, I decided to undertake the anchors today. To assist with getting the names of the anchor parts correct, I referred to an 'old' anchor diagram:

anchor_Parts.jpg
The Billing Boat kit supplied anchors contain the main flukes, shaft, crown, ring etc in black plastic. The stock was also in black plastic but molded to simulate wood and with four simulated steel bands (hoops). While the flukes and shaft could be made to replicate steel (with a little black and brown wash, to indicate rust and age), the plastic stock I was not happy about. Firstly it had no 'grain' like timber and also it had the simulated 'steel bands' which the Vasa did not have and to remove them would affect the plastic surface. So, I thought I would create my own timber stock. The Vasa's anchors also had wooden tree-nailing rather than steel or rope bounded timbers comprising the stock. I wanted to simulate this effect. To form the body of the stock therefore, I used three 'planks' of mahogany and glued these together with clamps using white glue. I then shaped two stocks to match that of the plastic stocks and drilled a series of holes through the timber to take the pointed ends of cut-down tooth-picks. I found that the bamboo toothpicks for this job were not suitable as, when cut off at the timber's level after inserting and gluing, the internal porous holes of the bamboo could be seen. A better solution was to use pine toothpicks (I am assuming it's pine but maybe another, more dense and light coloured timber carefully selected from the QuarterMaster's store???) which did not show the end 'holes' of the timber nails.

The picture below shows the supplied anchor shaft/flukes and stock, with my replacement stock and timber nailing. The number of timber nails used in my case was only three per side, (that's six per stock side, or 12 in total). The remaining four holes (per side) adjacent the shaft hole were to have copper, blackened nails inserted after the tree nailing.

IMG_4638.JPG

The inserted toothpick 'nails' were cut-off flush with the timber and then sandpapered smooth. A squared hole was cut/drilled into the underside of the stock just large enough for the anchor shaft to pass through and be secured. Once attached, a copper ring was made from larger diameter copper wire and offset to allow it to pass through the shaft upper ring-hole. It was then closed with pliers to stop it from coming loose. The join of the ring was rotated until it was enclosed by the body of the shaft. Below are the two anchors before their rings are bound with black rope.

IMG_4640.JPG

The final job to complete the anchors was to bind the rings with black rope and fix with some CA glue. Winding the rings was tedious and took a while because the rope has to entirely cover the copper ring, from one edge of the shaft to the other. If you run short of line, you have to start over again, so a longer length is recommended initially. It's surprising how much line a tight winding around the wire ring took!! Below is the winding process while the anchor is held in a vice with some suturing scissors.

IMG_4642.JPG

The final product had some burnishing oil on the timber and the nail heads blackened. The tree-nails can be seen in the mahogany and are subtle in their appearance which is what I was looking for. Overall, I am happy with this end product. I will leave the mounting of the anchors for a little while until I sort out the pulleys to be used and the rope detailing.

Time Elapsed: 1250 Hours

Regards,

Peter G.
 
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PeterG said:
Many thanks once again gentlemen for your comments and visiting my build.

Alexander: I would be interested in seeing the brochure describing the Vasa colour research. Do you have a digital or scanned copy? any information which relates to the Vasa at the moment I am keen to acquire. The ship and its history are fascinating and after having visited the Vasamuseet in 2017, I was only stimulated more by the work being done by Fred Hocker and his research team.

Nigel: Many thanks for your complimentary words. I try and keep the tone of the Build Log light-hearted as well as informative. I see that you are building (or have built), the Sovereign of the Seas by De'Agostini. Does the approach of 'partwork' construction affect your build and are you happy with this approach? I am interested from the perspective of the partwork build approach taken to De'Agostini's Vasa kit.

Regards,

Peter G.
Click to expand...


Peter,
The short answer is the biggest disadvantages are material supplied in lengths to suit the packaging.Bulkheads in three pieces,keel in three pieces and planking butts positioned solely to suit the longest pieces that will fit in the pack.
The long answer is you will have to read my Sovereign log,totally not happy with Deagostini with this partwork.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
PeterG said:
Overall, I am happy with this end product. I will leave the mounting of the anchors for a little while until I sort out the pulleys to be used and the rope detailing.
Click to expand...
Hello Peter, As you mention, the overall look of the finished anchor looks good, however, If you don't mind, you accidentally put the anchor stock upside down. also, the ring is a little small for this scale. Take a look at the picture.

Anchor.jpg

It is good, you didn't glue it permanently...
 
Wow, you guys are quick off the mark - I only just finished posting!! Many thanks.

Nigel: I understand what you are saying with the packaging. The mailouts would have to accommodate some long or odd shaped timbers and these may be fragile. Reducing of part sizes (such as bulkheads too makes for extra work and sometimes, reduced strength. The mailout costs also of course all have to be borne by the end purchaser, so this is another negative on this form of build. This of course is also not to mention the possibility (likelihood ?? ) that parts would get broken in transit. I am sure I would find it frustrating as a means to receiving a kit. Not for everyone.

Jim: Whoops!! You are of course absolutely correct!! This is why I love this forum. The feedback is fast, accurate and if you make a mistake, you just have to take it on the chin, admit you were wrong and repair!! I have already been picked up on the mounting of my rudder by Alexander (alias Foxtrott) with too large a gap and am having to repair that!!

As you say, the anchor repair will not be difficult, so I'll get right onto it.

Regards,

Peter G.
 
Good information Jim, good help for those who need it, I have bookmarked it myself.
 
Again I am awed by the detail you have added and in keeping with as much as possible to the current vessel as is on display in the Museum. I have read thru this complete thread 3 times now to see if I have missed anything. Of all the threads I have read on this wonderful ship's build, this has been the most educational and just makes for a good read. Your techniques, inventiveness and just dodged determination goes to show, one can do it if willing. I have looked at this kit numerous times and always have been thwarted from buying because of the complexity and ornamentation. However, as a middle ground builder, I believe following your thread and examples, one could turn out a excellent build of the Wasa. That is the best compliment I know to give you PeterG.
Rick :cool:
 
Many thanks to the many visitors. It is a real compliment to have so many others visit my build and provide comments and assistance. I really appreciate it.

To the specific contributors:

Jim (Jimsky): Many thanks for the detailed anchor information. This is exactly what I needed and I have already disassembled the anchors, reversed the stocks, re-attached and then added larger anchor rings which I have now rope-wrapped. The new product is as below:

IMG_4678.JPG
The attachment of a buoy rope and wrap of line around the shaft and flukes I will think about. I have seen this on another Vasa model and it does look good, so I will probably do it when I attach the anchors.

Alexander (Foxtrott): I have also worked on the rudder and its gap to the hull. It was a simple matter of providing a cut/space beneath each gudgeon and then making new larger, brass pintle pins. The gudgeons and pintles with the space provided allowed them to slide past each other and with the larger diameter pins, the gap was significantly reduced (see below).

IMG_4675.JPG

Maarten: I have seen these advertised before but I suspect what Michael (md1400cs) has highlighted would be a serious problem in their use. I would imagine the set of carvings would not be cheap. My Chinese when going to the site 4hmodel.com is not good enough to decipher a price!! Interestingly though I note that they also produce a series of other classic ship carvings (eg Santa Maria, Constellation, Mayflower, Bounty, Endeavour and Victory).

For my sanity, I think I will be best to stay with the Vasa and the sculptures I have (many thanks, Mr Billings)!!

Rick (Neophyte - Really - neophyte - My dictionary says it means "one who is new to a subject or activity". This may be so, but the second meaning is "a new convert to a religion". The latter is probably closer than the former!!).

Many thanks for your complimentary comments. Feedback such as this makes the posting of a Build Log (not a small or fast task for time-limited people, as we all are) all the more worthwhile. I really appreciate your comments. Also, if you are at all contemplating a build of the Vasa, I wouldn't be discouraged by the complexity or use of the many figures/sculptures. Even having seen the ship in Stockholm, I was not put off commencing the build of this wonderful ship. In many respects a build of the Vasa with a subsequent visit to see her, would not be a problem, and probably would be very rewarding, as the amount of information, detail, photographs and material describing all aspects of her, is voluminous and freely available.

The Billing Boat Vasa too has helped my build even though I have deviated from their kit plans on a number of occasions. At times the plans/instructions are obtuse, but if you think things through with what you have in front of you, it usually works out. As an example, just today, I was fashioning the lower Mizzen Mast. No problem, a taper from 6mm to 5mm, OK, then a half round piece of Obechi as the caphead. A hole drilled into the caphead to take the mast top, no problem. So, I cut and drilled it. Fitted it, then glued the caphead to the top of the mast section. Whoops - How wide was the caphead to be? Nothing in the instructions or plans to give the width!!! However, when I looked more closely, there is a brass fitting to hold the next mizzen mid-mast above the lower (part F586). Well in the manifest, this part is 10mm long. Did I cut the caphead long enough? NO. So, before the glue dries, I take off the mounted caphead (as it was only 8 mm wide), and then, back to the drawing board!!. In other words, the information was there - It just had to be thought through and each process and dimension worked out......

Regards,

Peter G.
 
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Where too next? There are 82 cannon port doors which have to be modified and constructed. Oh goody, some repeat operations.

Billing Boat's supply two kit part sets for the cannon doors. These are a plastic surround set for each gun opening through the hull and a second plastic set of doors, complete with the ornamentation of a lion's head molded into the surface of the door. Right back in an early post where I was planking and cutting in the gun port openings, when planking was completed, I lined each gun port with four small pieces of Obechi strip to line the inside and make the port outline. This process then removed the need to use the plastic gundoor linings.

For the gundoors themselves, I decided that the lion sculpture was a necessary part of the ornamentation, but the plastic, outer door material, I did not much care for. The picture below shows an example of a plastic door with the lion head molding.

Gun_1.jpg

To create the gun door therefore, I initially took my fine modelling handsaw and cut the four sides of the raised portion around the lion's head to remove the excess (see photo). The thickness of the plastic was a too high to look authentic, so I then sanded each door to about one half its thickness (see photo below). Meanwhile, as I was fashioning the lion's heads, I glued some mahogany strips together and then cut them to the same size as the original plastic door. I then fixed the lion's head to the mahogany doors, using horizontal timberwork for each door.

Guns2.jpg

Finally, with each lionhead glued to the door-size timbers, I cut out lots of thin aluminium strips (the metal in Coke cans is about the right thickness and cut into strips about 2 mm across. An Exacto knife can cut the aluminium.) These aluminum strips I then bent around a small drill bit, and cut off the length of the double fold to a specific, scale length. These strips then formed my gun door hinges, which were CA glued in position with two for each door. The final result is as below:

IMG_4674.JPG

The hinges and lionsheads have to be correctly positioned of course, as the door, when open on the ship has the hinges at the base and the lionshead looking out from the ship. For each door, I will have to add screweyes to connect the opening and closing lines before the doors are attached to the ship. The door attachment is likely to be two copper angled wire 'nails' to act as hinges. I have successfully trialed this on a small piece of vertical 'hull' and it does seem to work quite well, but it will be difficult to get them all looking correct and even etc.

Time Elapsed: 1355 hours

Regards,

Peter G.
 
A couple of additional topside jobs before getting to the rigging (is there an end to these jobs???), I need to add the anchor poles to the bow, plus I need to make the capstan.

The anchor pole(s) I noticed from other builds, is usually only an anchor pole (singular). The topsides have two square holes on each side of the bow railings for these poles, but usually only one pole was deployed. They are removable and can be put on either side of the ship depending on the side that anchoring was to be used. The pole extends from near the centreline of the ship and is secured by some rope which is passed through two holes in the deck and is then tied off at the inside end of the pole. The other end extends outboard and is grooved for rope to hold an anchor supporting pulley. My pole is shown in the photo below. The securing inboard rope can be seen just near the forward knightsheads. I used Obechi timber and stained it which shows a nice grain of the timber running along its length. The pole emerges through its square, railing porthole just aft of the most forward gun on the starboard side.

IMG_4670.JPG

The capstan I wanted to replicate was as close to the one on the original ship as best I could and so I looked at a number of the photographs which document it from Vasamuseet. Below is a picture of the actual capstan on the original ship, a little hidden by standing rigging, but it does show that there are four capstan handles, and these join the capstan trunk at two different heights. I know too that there are another two holes in the trunk for a third pair of handles which can be inserted (but are not on the sip as displayed). At the top of the capstan is an iron band and at the base, there are two 'ratchet' pawls which were used to prevent the capstan from reversing when the pressure of a line was hauled. These two pawls operate in opposite directions, depending on the direction the capstan is being turned. Additionally, the capstan handles themselves are quite long and would be about 1.5 times in length what the capstan is in height. The height is defined in the Billing kit instructions. The handles also taper to their ends significantly.

Capstan_3.jpg

On the capstan from the 1/10 model beside the original ship, (as shown below), the capstan has 3 pairs of handles inserted. Note that these are of differing heights as they feed into the trunk of the capstan, (as on the original), and the insertion ends of the handles are squared rather than rounded.

Capstan_2.jpg

With all the points taken into account from above, I made up the capstan, essentially from the kit parts, but with modified handles, and I opted for using six handles as shown on the 1/10 model. Its a little hard to see in the picture below, but I have added the two pawls at the base of the capstan.

IMG_4668.JPG

Positioning of the capstan is on the deckspace between the two forward hatches as shown below. The positioning, as per the original, has the pawls located towards the aft.

IMG_4671.JPG

I have used a round cap at the top of the capstan above the iron band with a thinned piece of Obechi which shows a nice grain. The iron band is a wrapped thin piece of blackened strip cut from an aluminium can. Two thin wire copper nails were used to secure it into the trunk of the capstan.

Time elapsed: 1365 hours

Regards,

Peter G.
 
Many thanks md1400cs. Your photos of the deck and capstan are better than mine. I am reasonably happy with my rendering of the capstan, based on your photos.

There must be a vast collection of enthusiast photographs out there which never make the light of day. A forum like this is a great place to provide them for modelers like us When we need some specific item covered. We all like to make our models as authentic as possible and this really helps.

Thanks again,

Peter G.
 
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