VOC ship The Prins Willem (scale 1:75) Year 1651

The video I shared in post #493 have a terrible episode after it went to Japan. The museum in Japan got financial problems, so the ship went back to Den Helder in the Netherlands. A few years later a small fire inside the ship wasn't able to stop that went to the total destruction of the ship.
The news on tv
 
Gennaro said:
Outstanding work as usual. These stropped blocks with hooks are something. How did you manufacture them, if you don't mind sharing? Thanks.
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Thanks, yes I will show how, its very easy to do. Make a few pictures to explain.it. you'll see later

Enzo said:
What is the function of "Stengewinderepen"?
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These are to reef the topmast. It was to change the hight of the total mast. The Center of Effort changes in this whay, but that is a difficult subject and you have to Google that...
 
Peter Voogt said:
Again some nice detailing work, Stephan.
Regards, Peter
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Thanks Peter, I just try to build it with patience, that seems to work. The problem is that I don't have a table to change the working hight. And working on the topmast is an uncomfotable position for me. The artrose in my shoulders makes my hands shake. So I have to take a lot of brakes in my work. I'm thinking on a solution. The Spanish Galleon had an very stable building plank. Where I put a rope around the ship and lay the ship on her side to work on it. The Prince Willem is way to big to do so.
 
Steef66 said:
Thanks Peter, I just try to build it with patience, that seems to work. The problem is that I don't have a table to change the working hight. And working on the topmast is an uncomfotable position for me. The artrose in my shoulders makes my hands shake. So I have to take a lot of brakes in my work. I'm thinking on a solution. The Spanish Galleon had an very stable building plank. Where I put a rope around the ship and lay the ship on her side to work on it. The Prince Willem is way to big to do so.
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My friend,
take a look at this helpful "lift" - for such works and problems the best helper

Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

My recent addition to the shipyard. Goes well with my Mini Lathe. Not exactly what I'm used to machining with however, with the scale I'm working in these days it should be a good fit. ;) Never have enough "Toys" Hi rtibbs, Nice little mill drill, looks like it has a Digital readout for the...
shipsofscale.com
 
Uwek said:
My friend,
take a look at this helpful "lift" - for such works and problems the best helper

Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

My recent addition to the shipyard. Goes well with my Mini Lathe. Not exactly what I'm used to machining with however, with the scale I'm working in these days it should be a good fit. ;) Never have enough "Toys" Hi rtibbs, Nice little mill drill, looks like it has a Digital readout for the...
shipsofscale.com
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Yes, one such a thing I was thinking about.
 
@all thanks for the likes, comments and visit of my log again.
Today I made the mouse for the "kruisstengestag" I think in English the correct name is Mizzen topmast stay. first I made a form of the mouse of a toothpick and drilled a hole of 0,5 mm. Put this on the rope that is gonna be the stay (0,4 mm. 3x2 serafil). In my serving machine I woven it to a mouse.

The picture will tell the story. Enjoy

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@Enzo I promised you an explanation of how I make the hook to an block

It's Easy, these are the toys you need
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Then I flatten a piece of wire on one side, the other half I leave round. That's the part of the hook.
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after that I make the form of the block on the flatten part end put the block in.
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then I make the form of the hook and the block is done.
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I let a drop of ca go between the block and brass. When dried I drill a hole in the middle the block and the brass as a lookalike shaft. The end of the hook you can give a sharp point to let it more look like a hook. You just need to practise this a few times. The smallest what I did till now was a 3 mm block.
 
Uwek said:
My friend,
take a look at this helpful "lift" - for such works and problems the best helper

Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

My recent addition to the shipyard. Goes well with my Mini Lathe. Not exactly what I'm used to machining with however, with the scale I'm working in these days it should be a good fit. ;) Never have enough "Toys" Hi rtibbs, Nice little mill drill, looks like it has a Digital readout for the...
shipsofscale.com
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Uwe you made me thinking on this lifting table that you mentioned to me in Peter Voogt his log. In my country they're expensive. And I can give the money only once away. So I look on YouTube and find a solution in wood. This principle:


there a lot of movies to find about this subject
I discover the system in another video
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and it is simple to remake.
First I tried a miniature example
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That gives me the proportions of the distance and length of the screws and wood.
I searched marketplace sites in the Netherlands and I found a wooden bed of Ikea and that will I use. (10 euro)
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I think the total cost to make will be around 30 euro.
I make a tutorial after I finished it. I've just to need waiting on parts that come from Aliexpres.
 
Interesting idea - I am looking forward to see the result - wish you luck and a lot of fun making this "bed-lift"
 
Everybody thanks for the likes, comments and watching my log.
I'm not only dreaming (dreaming is good) about tools, I also work with them.
I've finished the shrouds on the mizzen topmast, fit the stay and started with the backstay. First I made the violin blocks with a length of 4,5 mm. and tried to make double blocks of 2,5 mm. The 3 mm. blocks I have in stock are for my feeling to big. This took me half a day with no result. Just a lot of experience. So I've took the 3 mm. blocks and sanded them down with my Corradi files to acceptable proportions.
Enjoy the pictures so far.
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Thanks for watching
 
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Steef66 said:
Everybody thanks for the likes, comments and watching my log.
I'm not only dreaming (dreaming is good) about tools, I also work with them.
I've finished the shrouds on the mizzen topmast, fit the stay and started with the backstay. First I made the violin blocks with a length of 4,5 mm. and tried to make double blocks of 2,5 mm. The 3 mm. blocks I have in stock are for my feeling to big. This took me half a day with no result. Just a lot of experience. So I've took the 3 mm. blocks and sanded them down with my Corradi files to acceptable proportions.
Enjoy the pictures so far.
View attachment 296097View attachment 296098View attachment 296099View attachment 296100View attachment 296101View attachment 296102View attachment 296091View attachment 296092View attachment 296093View attachment 296094View attachment 296095View attachment 296096

Thanks for watching
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Great stuff, that is pretty amazing making those tiny blocks.
 
small update on the backstay. It is all very small. The rope is just between 0,3-0,4 mm. Looks on the picture big.

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The ring is made of brass of 0,3 mm. the pin where ring is made of a piece of brass wire of 0,5 mm. flatten, and formed with a diamond cutter on the Dremel.
It was so small when lying on the table, I have to remember where, otherwise I couldn't find it back
 
Thanks @All for the likes and visiting my log.
first I make the tackles for the main topmast.

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I will attached the rope to the shrouds when they are done.

next the making of the shrouds and a little peak behind the scenes how I make these shrouds around the mast top.

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the block of wood is in the same measurements of the mast top. And next is to put the rope on my serving machine make sure the rope is secured by a clip.

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Then a make a knot around the rope and fixed that with a drop of glue.

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turn the rope around to the length I want, a little glue and turning back and knot and glue the ropes together.

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done...

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Saturday the gears for my adjusting table arrived. Took just 8 days from China to here.

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I ordered 15 gears more, these where not enough. 15 pieces for the price of 5 euro incl shipping. cheap price for this quality
Thanks for watching
 
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