YUANQING BLUENOSE - Heinrich

Morning, I think, Heinrich!
Following with salivating interest how this model was designed and how you and other members are tackling issues as they arise.......
Please DO NOT forget to send me the PayPal link so I may order mine!!
Thanks so much for this site and all the members too! I really need something to wrap my mind around instead of the election crap fest going on in the U.S. now.....
Thank you
Steviedean
 
Hello Heinrich, I have a question and that is a couple of the hull frames are installed on both ends of the build jig, then the keel is installed and glued to these frames right. What I am concerned with then the build jig must be turned side ways to in stall the next frame then put flat on the table to insure it's proper position both in the build jig and also in the keel notch? I do realize that I am jumping far ahead of my self in this build but I do not like surprises. Thanks for your patience.
Regards Lawrence
 
Hello Guys

FRAME 31

Since some of you may already have - or shortly will - assemble Frame 31, PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING Exclamation-Mark

Once Frame 31 has been completed and the glue has PROPERLY dried, you need to drill two 2mm (diameter) x 2mm (depth) holes in the frame notch as indicated below:

Untitled.png

As promised, I have also addressed the issue of turning the jig upside down during the assembly process so that the frames can be slotted in from the top. Once again, I am relating the information to you as I have received it. It is by no means prescriptive and just indicates how the YuanQing test build was done. You are free to do whatever you find works best for you.

During the ASSEMBLY PROCESS, YuanQing keeps the keel flat as indicated on the pictures in yesterday's post. Only AFTER the rib and keel assembly is completed, is the jig turned upside down for the rest of the building process. It seems as if @Canoe21 Lawrence's closest to the process used by them - that of sliding the frames in from the side and positioning them in the keel and jig notches. Therefore, I would strongly suggest that all frames be dry-fitted into the keel notches BEFOREHAND, to make sure that you have a proper fit during final assembly.
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Guys

FRAME 31

Since some of you may already have - or shortly will - assemble Frame 31, PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING Exclamation-Mark

Once Frame 31 has been completed and the glue has PROPERLY dried, you need to drill two 2mm (diameter) x 2mm (depth) holes in the frame notch as indicated below:

View attachment 203435

As promised, I have also addressed the issue of turning the jig upside down during the assembly process so that the frames can be slotted in from the top. Once again, I am relating the information to you as I have received it. It is by no means prescriptive and just indicates how the YuanQing test build was done. You are free to do whatever you find works best for you.

During the ASSEMBLY PROCESS, YuanQing keeps the keel flat as indicated on the pictures in yesterday's post. Only AFTER the rib and keel assembly is completed, is the jig turned upside down for the rest of the building process. It seems as if @Canoe21 Lawrence's closest to the process used by them - that of sliding the frames in from the side and positioning them in the keel and jig notches. Therefore, I would strongly suggest that all frames be dry-fitted into the keel notches BEFOREHAND, to make sure that you have a proper fit during final assembly.
Click to expand...
I did forget the drilled holes. But it is not glued in yet, I will do it today.
Another [thumbs-up].
 
Heinrich said:
@Steviedean Hi Steviedean . Welcome to the Group Build and the Bluenose family! Your PayPal Bill is going out Wednesday morning the 6th of January, Sir! FedEx will start collections again on the 8th!
Click to expand...
PERFECT!!
Looking forward to this and thanks again. This forum thing is as close to having a buddy to build along with. I’m looking forward to the adventure !!
Steviedean
 
HI HEINRICH, GAD TO KNOW THAT, JUST FINISHED FRAME NO. 31, NOW ANOTHER QUESTION ON FRAMES AGAIN MIND STILL NOT QUITE THERE ON THIS I AM DOING FRAMES THAT HAVE NO BEVELING AFTER A COUPLE MORE I WANT TO SWITCH TO THE ONES WITH BEVELS I HAVE SEEN HOW FRAME 8 WAS DONE BUT NOT QUITE SURE WITCH LINE IS THE OUTSIDE AND DOES THAT ALSO PERTAIN TO FRAMES 1 PLUS THANKS. GOD BLESS YOU AND YOURS DON
 
That is good going Don! I am spending my time on the frames. On my off-days, I will do two - otherwise I only do one frame per day. In between, I am busy putting up the inner bracing on the Haarlem's bulwarks.
 
Heinrich said:
@dockattner @PT-2 Paul & Rich - It is quite funny that you refer to the Bluenose's keel as an edged instrument - you have inadvertently stumbled upon one of my other BIG interests. On its way to me (hopefully) is the Roxi 4 folder - designed by Seth & Terryl Todd from Montana and manufactured by WE KNIVES in Guangdong, China. (6AL4V Titanium Framelock / Ball-raced Flipper mechanism / 4"-long SV35N Wharncliffe blade.

View attachment 202998
View attachment 202997

And with that little side-distraction out of the way, I thought it best to pay some attention to the instruction manual and the procedure described therein that pertains to the mounting of the frames.

View attachment 202999
The translation of is of this page and refers to the section in the black-outlined "box".

The ribs and keel are assembled via the use of the building jig. First Frame #1 and #49 are glued to the keel. Place the glue in the notch of the frame and then glue it together with the corresponding keel notch (i.e.) Frame #1 will go into the first keel notch. Make sure that this fit is perfect. TAKE THE TIME TO CLEAN/SAND parts accordingly. The top parts of the rib frames are then glued and stuck into the corresponding notches of the building jig. Make sure that the rib frames are completely flush with the top side of the building jig. Follow the same procedure with the other ribs (Figures 29-32).

For the benefit of all, I have supplied you with colour pictures place of the Black-and-White ones of the instruction manual.

View attachment 203000

View attachment 203004

View attachment 203002
View attachment 203017
So you can see there is no mention being made of any upside-down construction techniques (at least not during this phase of the assembly process. However, I will ask YuanQing on Monday about those posted pictures and get them to comment.

Happy Bluenose building guys!
Click to expand...
Are we actually gluing the ribs to the jig?
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Guys

FRAME 31

Since some of you may already have - or shortly will - assemble Frame 31, PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING Exclamation-Mark

Once Frame 31 has been completed and the glue has PROPERLY dried, you need to drill two 2mm (diameter) x 2mm (depth) holes in the frame notch as indicated below:

View attachment 203435

As promised, I have also addressed the issue of turning the jig upside down during the assembly process so that the frames can be slotted in from the top. Once again, I am relating the information to you as I have received it. It is by no means prescriptive and just indicates how the YuanQing test build was done. You are free to do whatever you find works best for you.

During the ASSEMBLY PROCESS, YuanQing keeps the keel flat as indicated on the pictures in yesterday's post. Only AFTER the rib and keel assembly is completed, is the jig turned upside down for the rest of the building process. It seems as if @Canoe21 Lawrence's closest to the process used by them - that of sliding the frames in from the side and positioning them in the keel and jig notches. Therefore, I would strongly suggest that all frames be dry-fitted into the keel notches BEFOREHAND, to make sure that you have a proper fit during fina
Heinrich said:
Hello Guys

FRAME 31

Since some of you may already have - or shortly will - assemble Frame 31, PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING Exclamation-Mark

Once Frame 31 has been completed and the glue has PROPERLY dried, you need to drill two 2mm (diameter) x 2mm (depth) holes in the frame notch as indicated below:

View attachment 203435

As promised, I have also addressed the issue of turning the jig upside down during the assembly process so that the frames can be slotted in from the top. Once again, I am relating the information to you as I have received it. It is by no means prescriptive and just indicates how the YuanQing test build was done. You are free to do whatever you find works best for you.

During the ASSEMBLY PROCESS, YuanQing keeps the keel flat as indicated on the pictures in yesterday's post. Only AFTER the rib and keel assembly is completed, is the jig turned upside down for the rest of the building process. It seems as if @Canoe21 Lawrence's closest to the process used by them - that of sliding the frames in from the side and positioning them in the keel and jig notches. Therefore, I would strongly suggest that all frames be dry-fitted into the keel notches BEFOREHAND, to make sure that you have a proper fit during final assembly.
Click to expand...
Why are these holes being formed?
Click to expand...
 
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