YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]

I know I am late, but you shouldn't build so fast! As to which option to choose - I would always opt for the "cleaner" look like @Dean62 Dean suggested as well. However, seeing that you mention the two configurations and the author/s who subscribe to each, I think you should ask yourself the question on which have you based your build the most and follow that option. It irritates me to no end, that on some aspects of my WB build, I have to follow De Weerdt (because of the kit) while essentially building a Hoving model. Maybe, you can use that as a guideline.
You are absolute right, Heinrich. To build the model with input from several authors. For my BN the base of YQ with partly Jenson, Eisnor, Lankford and some AL-FI from Voogt. :) It must be more or less historically correct but it must also show (in scale) on the model. With the macro shot it now looks a bit messy, but if you look at the photo where the hull and the entire lower mast are on, you have to look very carefully at what it is exactly. For the shrouds, the Chapelle option is definitely going to look neater later on. So it will go that way. And I will make the macro’s with more decent dry-fit’s.ROTF
Regards, Peter
 
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Stopped applying the deadeyes!
I went wrong with the dimensions. I looked again at the 2 test deadeyes in relationship with my shrouds and the overall looks.

When ordering the ropes and sheave blocks I have calculated these back to an acceptable scale. Also based on the sizes that MS states on their drawings. Also the masts turned to scale.
And then I just took the size of the 7 mm and 5 mm blocks from YQ with my new ordered.
7 mm in scale 1:72 is therefore 50.4 cm ......... The butcher often asks "Can it be a little more?" but this is 'far out of scale'.

Chapelle and Jenson are talking about 7" and 5.5" blocks. That is 17.8 and 14 cm. MS listed 1/8" and 3/32" in 1:68 scale. All this in 1:72 scale would be 2.82 and 2.46 mm. That's small. "Can it be a little more?"

I came across this photo in The Nova Scotia Archives "Crew on deck of Bluenose":
914 Deadeyes.png
If those deadeyes are around 50 cm ........ then ........

Here I have replaced the 7mm deadeyes with 5mm:
913 Deadeyes.jpg
That already shows a little better.
To be on the safe side, I ordered 4 mm and 3 mm deadeyes and will have a look again.
Do I have to find a solution for the 2-eye braces. There are only 4 for the 5 mm deadeyes. But I will find a creative solution for that. Cut and soldering the long ones?
Regards, Peter
 
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Stopped applying the deadeyes!
I went wrong with the dimensions. I looked again at the 2 test deadeyes in relationship with my shrouds and the overall looks.

When ordering the ropes and sheave blocks I have calculated these back to an acceptable scale. Also based on the sizes that MS states on their drawings. Also the masts turned to scale.
And then I just took the size of the 7 mm and 5 mm blocks from YQ with my new ordered.
7 mm in scale 1:72 is therefore 50.4 cm ......... The butcher often asks "Can it be a little more?" but this is 'far out of scale'.

Chapelle and Jenson are talking about 7" and 5.5" blocks. That is 17.8 and 14 cm. MS listed 1/8" and 3/32" in 1:68 scale. All this in 1:72 scale would be 2.82 and 2.46 mm. That's small. "Can it be a little more?"

I came across this photo in The Nova Scotia Archives "Crew on deck of Bluenose":
View attachment 330533
If those deadeyes are around 50 cm ........ then ........

Here I have replaced the 7mm damsel deadeyes with 5mm:
View attachment 330532
That already shows a little better.
To be on the safe side, I ordered 4 mm and 3 mm deadeyes and will have a look again.
Do I have to find a solution for the 2-eye braces. There are only 4 for the 5 mm deadeyes. But I will find a creative solution for that. Cut and soldering the long ones?
Regards, Peter
And does this mean an 8 week delay for shipping??? Come to my house and I'll let you practice on a warship...
 
My home is closer, can he practice on a VOC ship ROTF
And does this mean an 8 week delay for shipping??? Come to my house and I'll let you practice on a warship...
Hey, that's what you get when you so desperately want to build a huge warship with more shrouds than you want to manage. ROTF
So, both of you, get back and rig your own builds and leave Peter to solve his deadeyes issues. o_O
 
And does this mean an 8 week delay for shipping??? Come to my house and I'll let you practice on a warship...
Haha, Paul. But I also received the sheave blocks. Now I can dress up the main mast. And build the fore mast etc etc. So not relaxing ..... :)
And a have already a warship in my living room. ROTF
And I asked Zoltan to send the little bags in a greeting-card envelope. ;)
Regards, Peter
 
Thanks for your post, Alf. I really appreciate your opinion. I don't know the book you mentioned, I suppose ‘The Anatomy’, but I do find it interesting based on which image this is. And a comparison with parts of the Victory in new to me. I will have a better look at Grants @GrantTyler Victory :)
And
Regards, Peter
Good morning Peter. I would go for the left. If more accurate then it most certainly applies to your BN. Aesthetically I also prefer it. On the Victory as far as I understand “ swifters” May have applied some of the backstays from the topmast. On my Victory I did not make swifters. Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Peter. I would go for the left. If more accurate then it most certainly applies to your BN. Aesthetically I also prefer it. On the Victory as far as I understand “ swifters” May have applied some of the backstays from the topmast. On my Victory I did not make swifters. Cheers Grant
On those shown in Longridge drawings for the shroud I just whipped the shroud on a single line.
 
Oops I did it again- Just like Britney. I answered before read to end of posts. Peter awesome research and build. Dry dock has really good quality and besides your customs frustrations these will add to your BN for sure. Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Peter. I would go for the left. If more accurate then it most certainly applies to your BN. Aesthetically I also prefer it. On the Victory as far as I understand “ swifters” May have applied some of the backstays from the topmast. On my Victory I did not make swifters. Cheers Grant
Thanxs for your opinion, Grant. It is always a trade-off between accuracy, looks, is it possible to make, etc. But accuracy does prevail.
I answered before read to end of posts.
That’s sometimes also my problem when I am behind with reading some build-log. ROTF But spontaneity is a good quality.;)
awesome research and build. Dry dock has really good quality and besides your customs frustrations these will add to your BN for sure.
The advantage is that I don't have a time and sequence planning. Still so much to do. And variety is always nice. That's what I also came across in your build-log.
Regards, Peter
 
Continued where I left off for the deadeyes: now just 'Swifters 2.0".

After I remade them, I waited a while before applying them.
First prepared the blocks that will be on the main mast. They are fitted with the bracket with eyes and/or hooks:
915 Blokken.jpg
Left: from left to right:
-5 mm tripel block, for lifting at the fork of the gaff of the main sail;
-5 mm single blocks, for lifting the gaff and tilting at the top. The outer eyes are still open. I shut them after applying.
-3.5mm single blocks, for holding the mainsail boom up at +/- 3/4 of the aft. Ditto for the open eyes.
-3 mm single block, for pulling up the main top-sail. Comes at the rear at the top of the top mast;
-2.5 mm single block, for pulling up the staysail, between the main and front mast. Comes at the front at the top of the top mast.
Right: 3mm double block on a line with eye splices, for holding up the foresail boom.

Then applied the blocks and applied the swifter and shrouds:
916 Main.jpg
The 2 flag lines are also applied in the top. These run all the way down to the sheer poles on the lower shrouds.

I still have to wait with the final placement until I have the new deadeyes. Because the shrouds are still covered around the top deadeyes. And then I need to know the size of the blocks and the distance between bottom and top.
I am happy with the result of my choice for the swifters. Now they stand / hang decent.

PS: 2022-12-09: During the installation of the quarter lifts, I changed the 3,5 mm single blocks for 3,5 mm double blocks. A mis interpretation of the drawings. ;)
Regards, Peter
 
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The left image (with the swifters) looks a bit cluttered IMO and the right (without them) looks cleaner.
I would always opt for the "cleaner" look
And I will make the macro’s with more decent dry-fit’s.ROTF
For Dean & Heinrich a closer look. (But also for the others!) IMHO much cleaner then the 1e dry-fit.
917 Swifters.jpg
The left side rope of the left swifter will also come on top, as bij de right side. If the other side is also pulled tight and tied off.
Regards, Peter
 
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Continued where I left off for the deadeyes: now just 'Swifters 2.0".

After I remade them, I waited a while before applying them.
First prepared the blocks that will be on the main mast. They are fitted with the bracket with eyes and/or hooks:
View attachment 330883
Left: from left to right:
-5 mm tripel block, for lifting at the fork of the gaff of the main sail;
-5 mm single blocks, for lifting the gaff and tilting at the top. The outer eyes are still open. I shut them after applying.
-3.5mm single blocks, for holding the mainsail boom up at +/- 3/4 of the aft. Ditto for the open eyes.
-3 mm single block, for pulling up the main top-sail. Comes at the rear at the top of the top mast;
-2.5 mm single block, for pulling up the staysail, between the main and front mast. Comes at the front at the top of the top mast.
Right: 3mm double block on a line with eye splices, for holding up the foresail boom.

Then applied the blocks and applied the swifter and wall ropes / shrouds:
View attachment 330884
The 2 flag lines are also applied in the top. These run all the way up to the sheer poles on the lower shrouds.

I still have to wait with the final placement until I have the new deadeyes. Because the shrouds are still covered around the top deadeyes. And then I need to know the size of the blocks and the distance between bottom and top.

I am happy with the result of my choice for the swifters. Now they stand / hang decent.
Regards, Peter
Peter, I appreciate your listing your choices of block sizes along with each size's intended usage. And your photos are very helpful to my learning experience. Your block metal work is exquisite; I can only wish to try equaling.
 
Peter, I appreciate your listing your choices of block sizes along with each size's intended usage. And your photos are very helpful to my learning experience. Your block metal work is exquisite; I can only wish to try equaling.
Thanxs, Alf. For me it's also new again to work with those tiny blocks. I found in my stock a roll with black metal wire of 0.4 mm / 0.015. A bit more flexible than the messing / brass wire.
Rergards, Peter
 
Thanxs, Alf. For me it's also new again to work with those tiny blocks. I found in my stock a roll with black metal wire of 0.4 mm / 0.015. A bit more flexible than the messing / brass wire.
Rergards, Peter
SMACKKK! (the sound of palm slapping forehead)
Yes of course, black annealed steel wire. I'd forgotten all about a roll of .018 that I have on hand. Thanks again!2041269D-A027-4C78-9ED0-A3CD9BC95341.jpeg
 
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