YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]

The display case is looking very promising, I am certain it will be beautiful.;)
Thanks, Dean. Today a step further:
2 upright glazing bars and an intermediate transverse bar sawn in double miter at the top:
18 verstek.jpg
After measuring the required height, I could cut the 2 standing bars to size. And with the help of the recesses in the base plate I could also make the crossbar to the right size:
19 hoogte.jpg
With the iPhone so close, that gives some distortion.
With the help of 4 of my pieces of perspex of exactly 100x100mm I was able to put these 3 bars together and also support them with 2 extra in the two bottom corners on the base plate.

By measuring the space between the perspex fitting pieces, I can measure exactly the size of the glass plates:
20 Opmeten.jpg
For this narrowest sides that is 2x100mm + 8.57mm = 208.57. To have some slack and to use sealant in the seam, I make this 207.5mm.
(At the top the gap is 8,61. That's within my margins.)
In height it will be 2x100 + 503 = 703: it will be 702mm.
21 Opmeten.jpg
The wide pieces 2x100 + 605 = 805: will be 804mm.
Can I order 5 pieces of glass now. And the mirror for the bottom plate.
Until the next step ........
Regards, Peter
 
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Peter, your display case is becoming as interesting a build as your ship is :)
True story
Thanks, Mark and Grant. It was more easy to glue 5 parts of perspex together ……… but my Bluenose deserves a better case.
And by showing the steps I might give others an idea.
Regard, Peter
 
The glass plates and mirror are in:
22 Glas.jpg
Now I could finally make the frames around the base plate to size, so that the groove above the LED lights is slightly wider than the thickness of the glass. I need to be able to take the display case off and put it back in place easily. A little slack is in order then.

After gluing and nailing the 4 edge profiles, first tested the LEDs to see if they still worked:
23 LED.jpg
1 side had a bad contact, but everything designed in such a way that I can still reach the corner connections. So take the soldering iron in hand.

Blocks applied under the 4 corners and in the middle of the long sides:
24 Pootjes.jpg
Because with all the weight you want to be able to get your fingers under it to lift the display case.
Painted the inner edge white for some extra reflection.
Also blackened the nails. As a reference and corresponding to the nails in the frames and shelves.
Now I can give the profiles some layers of linseed oil.

And the blocks were needed to neatly hide the switch block for the LEDs:
25 Blok.jpg
For connecting the battery or the transformer.

Now first touring Scotland with some friend on the motorcycle for a week and then continue with the glass.
Regards, Peter
 
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The glass plates and mirror are in:
View attachment 380142
Now I could finally make the frames around the base plate to size, so that the groove above the LED lights is slightly wider than the thickness of the glass. I need to be able to take the display case off and put it back in place easily. A little slack is in order then.

After gluing and nailing the 4 edge profiles, first tested the LEDs to see if they still worked:
View attachment 380143
1 side had a bad contact, but everything designed in such a way that I can still reach the corner connections. So take the soldering iron in hand.

Blocks applied on the 4 corners and in the middle of the long sides:
View attachment 380144
Because with all the weight you want to be able to get your fingers under it to lift the display case.
Painted the inner edge white for some extra reflection.
Also blackened the nails. As a reference and corresponding to the nails in the frames and shelves.
Now I can give the profiles some layers of linseed oil.

And the blocks were needed to neatly hide the switch block for the LEDs:
View attachment 380145
For connecting the battery or the transformer.

Now first touring Scotland with some friend on the motorcycle for a week and then continue with the glass.
Regards, Peter
Have fun in Scotland and drive safe!
 
The glass plates and mirror are in:
View attachment 380142
Now I could finally make the frames around the base plate to size, so that the groove above the LED lights is slightly wider than the thickness of the glass. I need to be able to take the display case off and put it back in place easily. A little slack is in order then.

After gluing and nailing the 4 edge profiles, first tested the LEDs to see if they still worked:
View attachment 380143
1 side had a bad contact, but everything designed in such a way that I can still reach the corner connections. So take the soldering iron in hand.

Blocks applied under the 4 corners and in the middle of the long sides:
View attachment 380144
Because with all the weight you want to be able to get your fingers under it to lift the display case.
Painted the inner edge white for some extra reflection.
Also blackened the nails. As a reference and corresponding to the nails in the frames and shelves.
Now I can give the profiles some layers of linseed oil.

And the blocks were needed to neatly hide the switch block for the LEDs:
View attachment 380145
For connecting the battery or the transformer.

Now first touring Scotland with some friend on the motorcycle for a week and then continue with the glass.
Regards, Peter
Good morning Peter. Your display is almost as intricate as your BN. ;) . Enjoy your bike ride in Scotland. Something special about bike time in a beautiful place- enjoy. Cheers Grant
 
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