- Sep 3, 2021
So you were testing us Peter?Sometimes you put a picture in your build log, where you see things that make you think: how could that have happened.
After finishing the deck planking and the 1st layer of oil, I placed this photo:
721View attachment 307391
I had made the recesses in the waterways tight and yet these holes are visible. See inside the red ovals. That bothered me a lot and I had to do something about it. And no one responded like: Hey Peter, how about that?
Started with putty and small scalpels. And checked both sides along the entire length. Once a lot tighter, the waterways repainted. And also painted the inside of the bulwark white.
By painting the waterways gray, in accordance with The Saga, I did not make it easy for myself. It is a lot of work to tape everything around the 2x57 stanchions. So only done with a small brush and a lot of patience.
This one looks cleaner:
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At the same time, the heads of the stanchions and the edge of the hull were sanded flat so that the Buffalo rail can fit tightly.
So basically you shortened the cylindrical part of the bowsprit and, in order to maintain the correct length, added a square piece, which has the length of the removed part. And that replacement part is square in order to match the MS geometry.The spar shortened and the square part is attached to the spar with a pin.
Almost, in a little different order, Johan. First made the square piece on the YQ measurements between de Samson and bott bitts and from square to round before the bitts in the diameter of the bowsprit. And that length I cut of the bowsprit.So basically you shortened the cylindrical part of the bowsprit and, in order to maintain the correct length, added a square piece, which has the length of the removed part. And that replacement part is square in order to match the MS geometry.
Hi Herman,Hi Peter.
I have read through your build log last week and have absolutely enjoyed it as you must have noticed by the stream of likes, loves and wows. It reads like an exciting book with twists and turns. All superlatives have already been justly used and you have even become a "BN" in China. In this case BN not meaning BlueNose (coincidence?) but the Dutch expression for "Bekende Nederlander" - a "Well known Dutchman".
I am fairly new to this forum and the "Group Build" was new to me. Nice to see that you all learn from each other and help each other. That is very valuable, as is your "middleman" Heinrich.
You work has been extremely fine and crisp and especially you putting the saw (beautifully executed) in the hull took me by surprise but produced a very special model. Taking a risk using ink on your model also was also an exciting chapter in your build log. Again it delivered a great result. And so on..
I will be watching your progression with great interest.
Great how-to Peter! Thanks for the functional pictorial - I've been wondering how the glueing goes!After some questions on the Dutch forum, a picture how I glue the frames.
Working from frame 25, alternately a frame to the bow and to the stern.
Perhaps a overkill, but .....
View attachment 232806
-a frame with a clamp on the keel, to prevent it from being pulled down when further tightening;
- glued the ends of the frames into the jig and tensioned them in the frames with a slat. Under the jig a few frame boards because I have the jig on 2 aluminum profiles for perfectly flat. So the ends will not go lower then the underside of the jig;
-between the frames fit exactly 2 frame boards. Because some rafters are slightly curved (or not 90,000 degree angled overall ) and now dry right next to each other.
More awesome advice and well-illustrated to assist first-timers with critical awareness from the pro sum knowledge as to how it's best done!Before placing the frames I took the time to align the keel and 1st frames well: straight and at right angles, in a longitudinal and transverse direction.
Other than the manual, I've followed the advice in this interesting post from Dave @Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) in the Druid build-log from Donnie @Donnie :
Special this lines:A few days of relax and you will be fine.shipsofscale.com
“Never ever start at one end and work you way to the other end.
I will always set the midship frame up and the last whole frame forward and aft. Then set up a frame between midship and those last whole frames. Then I will fill in the rest of the frames.”
This became the setup:
View attachment 232786
-1st, the frames 1 and 49;
-2nd , I added the 2 half frames 50 and 55, because they are glued on the side of the keel and ensure ideal vertical alignment;
-3th , frame 25 halfway;
-4th , frame 13 and 37 in between.
According to the hook by frame 25, everything is straight.
BUT: See the insert picture above-left. Before I started placing the frames, I first made the bevel in the top of the rabbet on both sides of the keel. Which is much discussed here in the Bluenose Group Build Logs. With the keel separate from everything, it could be nice and flat on my work table with a small chisel.
Now the noses of the frames fits nicely to the bevel and the hull planks (garboards) can slide from the frames into the rabbet. Once all frames have been placed, I can adjust the bevel definitively.
Note: It is just my AL-FI, nobody has to follow this up.
And for the vertically alignment this photo:
View attachment 232787
Taken with the stern to the camera. You never get everything in focus over that length. (Or you have to stich several pictures from 1 fixed point of view with different stages of focus) Therefore, the sharpness is chosen on frame 1. The silhouette of the double back piece still shows itself nicely on either side. To check that everything is straight and parallel to each other.
PS: Sorry Jim @Jimsky still not a cathedral.
All in all, this already gives a lot of strength. A good basis for the rest of the frames.
Just like me - why go for nominal when you can go failsafe! Onward and upward!First I started assembling the keel part of the stern.
Dean @Dean62 has introduced ‘Artistic License’ (AL). I will add ‘Free Interpretation’ (FI). Together it is AL-FI.
So, AL-FI says:
The manual describes to glue these 2 longitudinal parts to the keel.
I chose to put them together separately. Together with part #53, which actually is on page 14 in step/photo 82/83. But I think that part gives more solidity:
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Because I was busy with all parts of the stern, also these parts were prepared dry-fit:
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After fitting on the keel, it will be adjusted on bevel and angle.
I then fitted the keel part, together with the half frames 50 and 55, to the keel. With the smooth connection to the frame 49:
View attachment 232440
Taken away frame 50 and the keel part glued and clamped:
View attachment 232441
The whole construction of the stern is depending of this joint. So I believe the connection of these main parts is not only glued. I have, with AL-FI, chosen to strengthen the connection of the stern part to the keel.
I used the technic I encountered in the build-log of Maarten @Maarten :
But also Jim @Jimsky gives a nice explatantion in his Alert build-log about the cup burr and the treenails with a syringe.Excellent handicraft as always. Fiercely, was the first word that came to my mind when I read the words "steel brush". When I sanded the inner planks in my Coureur the surface became far to "polished" for my liking. I assume the steel brush treatment is too avoid such a glossy surface? I would...shipsofscale.com
The cup burr must be bigger then the wire, or the wire has to be pointed. Otherwise the cup burr won’t center:
View attachment 232442
With brass 1,2 mm and a cup burr of 1,2 mm, a made 6 rods/nails:
View attachment 232443
There is some brass in the burr, forgotten to clean it for the picture.
View attachment 232444
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The angle of both parts is the same as on the drawing of the manual. Practice and theory come’s (again) together.
Perhaps you won’t see it any more when the build is completed, but ..... you know it’s there.
So, now I am ready the glue the frames in the jig and on the keel.
Hi Joe. Thanks for your reply and the compliments. I suppose the glue question was rhetoricalGreat how-to Peter! Thanks for the functional pictorial - I've been wondering how the glueing goes!
‘The Best Way’ is for many builders different. It depends on skills, equipment, experience etc. But thanks to all the build-log, it can give you a direction to find yours.More awesome advice and well-illustrated to assist first-timers with critical awareness from the pro sum knowledge as to how it's best done!
By scratch building my Lee I had to interpret things myself, invent things, read materials, etc. Then you sometimes get creative 'out of the box'.Just like me - why go for nominal when you can go failsafe! Onward and upward!