Hi Lawrence.
. Because I didn’t know the English name. And I see a typing error of me: “ ... with is using ...” = “... which is using ...”
Thanxs Lawrence.
We always called it a mechanical pencil...lol. Because you don’t sharpen, the lead is added or extended mechanically.Thanxs Lawrence.
Technical items gives sometimes very curious results in the translation programs. And the auto-fill on the iMac of iPad put sometimes a word back in Dutch. I have to read my reply’s almost twice to be sure nobody ‘to offend’.
Regards, Peter
It’s actually a neat design using a spring and an internal collet. 
WE used them in architectural drafting using a non-graphite plastic lead on mylar films before CAD came out. Farther back we had to sharpen the pencil lead for a drafting pencil in a rotating pointing device every few minutes and had an assortment of pencils with different hardnesses at hand. Then with the advent of mylar drafting film instead of paper we began to use these micro-millimeter pencils in the same manner; several hardnesses in different diameters at hand. . . kind of like a painting pallet with tubes of colors at hand to mix and use as needed. I had balck walnut pencil holders drilled to hold my assortment of pencils at the top corner of my drafting table along with the sharpener. Old school stuff that younger generations will not deal with or even know about. Then there is ink drafting with those pens as well. RichWe always called it a mechanical pencil...lol. Because you don’t sharpen, the lead is added or extended mechanically.
Some refer to them as a drafting pencil, as they were predominantly used in Engineering.
You didn't mention the Farber Castell Peel Off Magic Rub Erasers for Vinyl Drafting Film. Wow you brought back a lot of memories.
I remember all of that, and electric erasers, circle templates, triangles, etc.! I started in Engineering in 1980 prior to CAD.
We always called it a mechanical pencil...lol. Because you don’t sharpen, the lead is added or extended mechanically.
Some refer to them as a drafting pencil, as they were predominantly used in Engineering.
You didn't mention the Farber Castell Peel Off Magic Rub Erasers for Vinyl Drafting Film. Wow you brought back a lot of memories.
Jan
I remember all of that, and electric erasers, circle templates, triangles, etc.! I started in Engineering in 1980 prior to CAD.
It's amazing what accentuating a treenail brings back old memories.
Memories from earlier generations are interesting in what is recalled . . . not the same but similar to the fisherman's tale where "the last lier is the best lier." as the earlier catch gets bigger and bigger. I am glad that I started in the 50's with architectural studies in the 60's and production work in the first half of the seventies before the onset of CAD. I still prefer looking at an actual drawing on a drafting table than an image on a monitor as it gives me a better sense of scale and proportion. Every generation is founded upon their own experiences which give them an unconscious bias . . . or so I think. Rich
I have another one for you: In my first year of school, I learned to write with this. With a jar of ink in the school bench. And i'm not even that old.
View attachment 213999
Nice te read all your memories. The handdrawing-time wasn’t so bad.
Now I hear my dad, when he saw me doing some new things: “Earlier, we ........”. Now I her myself: “Earlier, we ........”
Following what Kurt wrote: wait a generation and you will see it again.
Maybe a new thread on the SoS: “Earlier, we ......”
Regards, Peter
I have another one for you: In my first year of school, I learned to write with this. With a jar of ink in the school bench. And i'm not even that old.
View attachment 213999
Nice te read all your memories. The handdrawing-time wasn’t so bad.
Now I hear my dad, when he saw me doing some new things: “Earlier, we ........”. Now I her myself: “Earlier, we ........”
Following what Kurt wrote: wait a generation and you will see it again.
Maybe a new thread on the SoS: “Earlier, we ......”
Regards, Peter
Does all that thinking, fitting and thinking keep you awake at night?I think I found my work-around. First applied to frame 2.
With small steps with a small pliers, squeeze the wood under the notch for the frame. Just as long as I could slide the frame over it with a little resistance.
With the result: the underside of the frame comes closer to the rabbet.
Placed frame 2. With the pressed wood for frame 3:
View attachment 214419
To be a sure the frames were perpendicular on the keel, I took over the waterline on the front and back of the keel from the large 1-on-1 drawing.
With the front in the vise, both lines of the keel raised to the same height to level it.
With frame 3 in place:
View attachment 214420
And you see nothing of the pressed wood. For now, I'm happy with it.
When the frames are finally in place, I will try with a trial piece of hull plank whether the remaining strip of keel can be bridged. Otherwise, I'm really going to make a little bevel. But before I have arrived at that station, other builders have showed there results and I can see what it will be
For now I no longer have to widened the cutout to get the frames placed, resulting in the retraction of the noses.
Regards, Peter
Yes, sometimes a got the lights at night. Hoping I still remember it in the morning.
I found if I removed the char from the inside of the frame notch carefully with a file, that was enough to let the frame fully seat on the keel.I think I found my work-around. First applied to frame 2.
With small steps with a small pliers, squeeze the wood under the notch for the frame. Just as long as I could slide the frame over it with a little resistance.
With the result: the underside of the frame comes closer to the rabbet.
Placed frame 2. With the pressed wood for frame 3:
View attachment 214419
To be a sure the frames were perpendicular on the keel, I took over the waterline on the front and back of the keel from the large 1-on-1 drawing.
With the front in the vise, both lines of the keel raised to the same height to level it.
With frame 3 in place:
View attachment 214420
And you see nothing of the pressed wood. For now, I'm happy with it.
When the frames are finally in place, I will try with a trial piece of hull plank whether the remaining strip of keel can be bridged. Otherwise, I'm really going to make a little bevel. But before I have arrived at that station, other builders have showed there results and I can see what it will be
For now I no longer have to widened the cutout to get the frames placed, resulting in the retraction of the noses.
Regards, Peter
I found if I removed the char from the inside of the frame notch carefully with a file, that was enough to let the frame fully seat on the keel.
Even then they will not reach the rabbet. But as discussed before, I don’t think they need to. Also if you look at the angle of the frame tip, it is not parallel with the rabbet on a lot of the frames. If you change the angle to match, you have shortened the frame! You end up chasing your tail...lol.
In conclusion, I would just make sure all the frames get fully seated in the keel. There is going to be a gap between the edge of the frame and keel rabbet no matter what you do. I think the first board or garboard plank will sit in that area.
Just my observations!
Thanxs Dean,
Of course, I do the same! You take the path you want to go. I’m sure you’ll reach the same conclusion I did. We just end up in the same place taking different paths!
Long ago I was advised to keep a small note pad and pencil beside my bed to record a thought before it was lost. Like champagne bubbles rising to the surface with many bursting on the way and not reaching to top. Maybe the beverage was the best idea though for a better night's sleep.Yes, sometimes a got the lights at night. Hoping I still remember it in the morning.
