YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
- Start date
- Watchers 70
What scale are they Peter? They look good! And the smell??? A Dutchman who builds a fishing schooner and complains about the smell?????
Next year I want to show the BN at the show of the Dutch Model Building Association (NVM)
Can you imagine that room with all those people in a fishy air?
And a display case that is completely smashed on the inside?
And when I take that display case off .......... then they fall right off their chair!
With all my regards, but the shown little dry fish is out of the question.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,783
- Points
- 688
Remember the stench all too well...But it smells awful. ……. to dead fish.
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,783
- Points
- 688
Don't know if I want to come and admire your "handiwork", or stay at home and hide behind the curtains, shamefaced...
If you want to display your model, it'll have to be in a secured, bullet proof vault, bolted to the floor, otherwise you'll never leave the building with your Bluenose
As I wrote before, If that is the case, that I 'deter' others from showing their work, then I stop immediately.
That will be another thing ... depending on the theme I also want to take The Lee with me.
Never too bad for a good fight.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,783
- Points
- 688
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,783
- Points
- 688
Don't stop for any other reasons then your own!As I wrote before, If that is the case, that I 'deter' others from showing their work, then I stop immediately.
You could make about 1,000 5-6mm long fish! 
On a serious note, you may be able to find some online?
On a serious note, you may be able to find some online?
Buying could get expensive...
I think if you put about 10 fish per hold, that would at least be a nice representation of use. But it seems they could be quickly made from some foam and painted to look nice.
I think if you put about 10 fish per hold, that would at least be a nice representation of use. But it seems they could be quickly made from some foam and painted to look nice.
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,783
- Points
- 688
Maybe someone with a 3D printer being able to help you out?Buying could get expensive...
View attachment 265718
I think if you put about 10 fish per hold, that would at least be a nice representation of use. But it seems they could be quickly made from some foam and painted to look nice.
You could make about 1,000 5-6mm long fish!
On a serious note, you may be able to find some online?
Hi Dean,Buying could get expensive...
View attachment 265718
I think if you put about 10 fish per hold, that would at least be a nice representation of use. But it seems they could be quickly made from some foam and painted to look nice.
The common length of the Atlantic Cod:
1 mtr / 3,28’ / 39,4”. In scale 1:72 = 14 mm / 0.55”.
I have an idea that I want to work out.
10 fish for $12,94 ....... Get you money for nothin', get your chicks for free (Thanxs to DS)
Perhaps filling a bunk first with paper and on top some of those. Asking Henk to air-brush them
Regards, Peter
That's is a really great idea!!!
Thanxs for thinking about the fish. I keep it in mind as a second option.
Regards, Peter
Filled the 1st FishHold 'temporarily' until I found 'scale cod' that is to my liking.
Now for €0.02 in ink lost on a print. A little origami (just make a ball and unfold it again) and some crunched ice on top.
The next FishHold ends under the 1st beam of the raised aft deck. On the YQ model, the low foredeck jumps from the last beam (26) to the 1st beam (27) of the raised aft deck.
In the books it can be read that this elevation also functioned as a kind of water breaker to keep the further aft deck drier.
In The Sage, L.B. Jenson clearly drawn that the planking of both decks has an overlap over 2 deck beams:
With the extra 2 supported deck beams underneath.
In the right drawing he has also drawn the end of the deck planks. I accentuated them.
To allow the deck planks to continue under those first 2 'raised' deck beams, I had to make the beams thinner and on both sides the support to have its normal hight:
Installed on the bearing beams and placed a few pass planks underneath:
With the planks a bit past it:
The top and bottom planks are from my own stash that I may be making the deck from.
The middle one is a piece of what YQ supplied. Nice grain in itself too. Maybe I'll cut planks from the 2 sheets.
Made the 2 extra lower beams from residual wood from which the deck beams come:
Fitted between the two bearing beams:
Then you get this double beam layer:
And seen from the bottom:
Everything still dry-fit, because it still has to come out for fitting the FishHolds.
Finally, a photo of the deck beams of the complete foredeck:
Regards, Peter
Now for €0.02 in ink lost on a print. A little origami (just make a ball and unfold it again) and some crunched ice on top.
The next FishHold ends under the 1st beam of the raised aft deck. On the YQ model, the low foredeck jumps from the last beam (26) to the 1st beam (27) of the raised aft deck.
In the books it can be read that this elevation also functioned as a kind of water breaker to keep the further aft deck drier.
In The Sage, L.B. Jenson clearly drawn that the planking of both decks has an overlap over 2 deck beams:
With the extra 2 supported deck beams underneath.
In the right drawing he has also drawn the end of the deck planks. I accentuated them.
To allow the deck planks to continue under those first 2 'raised' deck beams, I had to make the beams thinner and on both sides the support to have its normal hight:
Installed on the bearing beams and placed a few pass planks underneath:
With the planks a bit past it:
The top and bottom planks are from my own stash that I may be making the deck from.
The middle one is a piece of what YQ supplied. Nice grain in itself too. Maybe I'll cut planks from the 2 sheets.
Made the 2 extra lower beams from residual wood from which the deck beams come:
Fitted between the two bearing beams:
Then you get this double beam layer:
And seen from the bottom:
Everything still dry-fit, because it still has to come out for fitting the FishHolds.
Finally, a photo of the deck beams of the complete foredeck:
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Nevertheless, it is advisable to continue to read the manual from time to time. For the last low deck beam, I noticed another small gap between the bearing beams:
Left with space and right filled in.
For the lesson for the other builders:
In the manual on page 16, photo 90 shows the bar '45', fitted agains deck beam 26:
And for the sake of completeness: On pages 18 and 19 in photos 109 and 110 the bar '105' is shown. This will come later in front of deck beam 27, on the planks of the foredeck and will be sanded with the top of the planks of the aft deck.
Regards, Peter
Left with space and right filled in.
For the lesson for the other builders:
In the manual on page 16, photo 90 shows the bar '45', fitted agains deck beam 26:
And for the sake of completeness: On pages 18 and 19 in photos 109 and 110 the bar '105' is shown. This will come later in front of deck beam 27, on the planks of the foredeck and will be sanded with the top of the planks of the aft deck.
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
Absolutely fascinating what you are doing with the fine details. All that is missing is foul weather gear in the forward crew quarters. 
That's personal equipment. The yard is not going to deliver that. One wants red, the other yellow, another one lined .......Absolutely fascinating what you are doing with the fine details. All that is missing is foul weather gear in the forward crew quarters.
no way, Jan!Regards, Peter