-
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
Glad Tidings Pinky by DUncan - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale
The two halves are glued together. Now I will start adding the struts between the bulkheads. I’m going ti use what’s in the kit. It has 15 - 5/16” x 5/16” x 24” wood strips that is to be used for the launching ways but I plan to use a different mounting.
Before you do that, clamp that keel between two long, rigid, straight pieces of wood, creating a keel clamp which will ensure that the keel remains perfectly straight as you add your reinforcements. Otherwise, you could easily end up with a bent or twisted model, which won't be apparent until after you plank the hull. This is an important preventative measure.
That makes sense. Thanks.
Now, I think, I’m ready to start planking. I sent the plan sheets to the copy center and I will proceed with there help. The person who wrote the assembly instructions seems to like using CA and in my limited experience I like It too. (Instant gratification).
I’m going to mark each bulkhead with the location for each plank before I start.
It’s been a while since my last posting but I have been working on the model.
The planking is progressing. I started with Belt C from the keel upwards. Now that Belt C is finished I decided to lay the top plank of Belt A and remark the blanking for Belt A and B.
The planking is progressing. I started with Belt C from the keel upwards. Now that Belt C is finished I decided to lay the top plank of Belt A and remark the blanking for Belt A and B.
About 4 planks to go. I had to add a stealer at the bow because the plank ends were getting too small. I think I will add one more in the bow That will keep the planks wider. Don’t think I will need any in the stern.
Good Morning Duncan. Looking good and progressing well.
Planking is finished. Just at the point where fun was becoming work. Now the sanding. 
Your hull planking is looking already very good, also without sanding -> very good work
Thanks. I worked very hard trying to get the planking right. It took me about a month. I have noticed on other threads that the planking seems to be, get the wood down and sand and fill until it looks good. The finish hull looks like a fiberglass hull. In all the photos of the real schooner, I can see the planking through the paint. I guess what I am trying to say is I don’t want to cover all my hard work with paint. Any thoughts?
I have the same opinion. Especialy when it is hull like the Glad Tidings Pinky schooner with two or three different paints (underwater hull in brown red, above this yellow)
To get a good result it will be very important to use a paint, which is also not cover the details.
I have in principle very good results with Ecoline paints, f.e on the deck fittings of my Granado section model
HMS GRANADO (1742) - midship section - POF by CAF in 1:48 - by Uwe
I made this small area in principle like I did also at the Le Coureur - unfortunately I did not make any photos here with the Granado, but in the for information some older photo of the lugger...
shipsofscale.com
but until now never paint a hull
hull painting with Ecoline was done by @Peter Voogt on his amazing Bluenose - please check this post and the following -> I love this touch
YUANQING BLUENOSE - Peter Voogt
And it is again satisfactorily restored: Now that the oil has worked a little longer on the rest, the seams between the planks and by the treenails in the round seams get a small darker edge. Makes the drawing even more beautiful. Can I continue with placing the treenails and other 'in between'...
shipsofscale.com
Thanks. I look at your reference. Very interesting. The coverage is a little to transplant for the hull for my tastes. Would multiple applications make it less transparent? Could you not just thin out an acrylic. Also I am still concerned about water-based paint raising the grain. (I’m just a beginner.)
Duncan, my personal preference is an airbrush when it comes to painting hulls, and I get the best result on wooden ships using my wife's craft acrylics instead of acrylic paint for plastic models. An inexpensive Badger airbrush would work just fine. An airbrush allows you to put down paint thinly and evenly enough not to hide the texture of the wood (or your mistakes!), but also gives pretty consistent opacity.
I'm sure others get great results with hairy sticks or rattle cans, but I like the airbrush.
I’ve been sanding for a week and to me it looks great. You can’t see it in the photo but I am very happy how it looks. I know I have to take the next step and start with the paint primer but I just want to put a light stain on it and Danish Oil and look at it. But I must press on.
I think finishing that hull with some stain and Danish oil would look great!
That’s true, but it would not be a model of the real Pinky. I found a real 1990 Schooner Chapelle Pinky and I think I will use it as a source for color and other details.
I don't disagree; simply pointing out that it's a hobby and there is nothing wrong with doing whatever makes you feel good about your finished product. No shame in showing off your craftsmanship, even if it's not 100% accurate.
Started the structure of the cabins and just when the structure was finished I realized that the boards I used were too wide so the cabin walls were too tall. I removed one board (Very difficult because they were CAed together. ) Now the cabins are closer to the heights on the plans. The photo is before reducing the cabin structure height.
Because the next step for the hull is the planking, I decided to seal the inside of the hull. This should help with moisture absorption causing distortion in the future after the outside of the hull is painted. (I used Zinsser oil-base primer.) The oil-base did not swell the inside of the planking. But it dose lift any “fur” on the planking.
I’m going to use the Pleiades, Olympia, WA. as my model. It is newer than the kit model but its a pinky schooner and I have found many photos online that will help me with some of the details I can find in the kit directions.
Because the next step for the hull is the planking, I decided to seal the inside of the hull. This should help with moisture absorption causing distortion in the future after the outside of the hull is painted. (I used Zinsser oil-base primer.) The oil-base did not swell the inside of the planking. But it dose lift any “fur” on the planking.
I’m going to use the Pleiades, Olympia, WA. as my model. It is newer than the kit model but its a pinky schooner and I have found many photos online that will help me with some of the details I can find in the kit directions.
Last edited:
Got the decking installed. Needs some sanding. I put some pieces of wood inside where the cabins access ways will be. They will be painted flat black so when the access ways are open your will not see the bulkheads. (At least that’s the plan.)
