HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

[serikoff]

Today I was finally doing what I had been waiting for - diagonal planking under the stern. And in order.

First, according to the drawings, I outlined the angle of inclination of the boards.



Then glued together 3 boards...



... before gluing, I made small chamfers on both sides so that there was a gap between the boards. And he did the second one right away, so that when they closed they were exactly symmetrical.



Then I glued one workpiece to the body, but so that the glue did not get on the sternpost (it will be removable until the last for the convenience of grinding).



Then he glued the opposite part.



Well, then, one by one glued on both sides...



I chose reiki from ready-made (cut and covered with oil) to use only uniform colors and without stripes and color transitions.



Then I scratched the waterlines with a sharp tip with a high-altitude meter.





And along this line...



... I cut off the excess and began to glue below the dark pear board.



It ended up like this.





Then I filled the CA waterline gap with gel...



... and after grinding I got the following result:



There are gaps between the boards, which will appear when coated with oil and bitumen, and the waterline (since it does not actually separate the part, it is filled with glue and will be with a dark floor, without forming a gap between the fragments of as if one whole part).





Well, by tradition - a photo of symmetry...



Next in line is the lining of the sides to the waterline with a light pear... it will be a challenge! Since the boards do not go end to end, but overlap!!! Eh...

 

[serikoff]

13. Planking overlapping.

As you know, the planking of boards on Alert on the sides is not butt-to-butt, but overlapping. And naturally, overlapping should be done from the bottom of the keel and up, but! This option does not suit me, since at the slightest miscalculation the board in a visible place will be either wider or narrower than the others... and I want to progress from barkhout to keel without losing the geometry of the lines...

Therefore, I will do an imitation of overlap, using the direct docking method, but through a step. So in detail about this method.

First, I create a template by which I will calibrate all the rails, since the boards on the ship narrowed from the middle (6mm) to 4 mm to the bow.



I thrust two slats (template and plating board) into the glass and holding it out of the template with an extra blade.



Then I stick a 1 mm strip of veneer (0.5 mm thick) dotted with liquid CA on the other side of the rack.



Then I cut off everything unnecessary so that this 1 mm just remains.



Front and rear, I grind this strip of veneer to zero so that on the bow and under the stern, the boards do not overlap (imitation), but end to end. It will be difficult now to understand, but then I will show all this in detail.



Now I glue the front of the board and the next boards will butt together.



And the rest of the board will rise from behind a strip of veneer, forming a step, and this step will imitate the stitching of overlapping boards.



Glued as usual: I press the rack and capillary glue with liquid CA. At the end, from the inside along the gaps between the frames, all this will be poured with glue for reliable long-term fixation.



Here in the photo above, the scheme of this method is clearly visible. I think things are clearer now.

Well, the result...



Due to a lack of material, I had to make rail joints, which I really do not like. I prefer to glue the entire length and then make imitation connections. But here one of two things will be real.



Let me remind you that the joint goes along the middle of the double frames and along the line of their connection. (regardless of the inclination of the boards or the hull of the ship.)



After grinding, the geometry of the boards will be as one.

Well, a couple more angles...





One skin belt ready... and 16 more to come... and the next one is the most difficult. He, like several others below him, will be prefabricated from two pear flowers... it will be the toughest challenge in this project...

 

[Corsair]

Genius !

 

[dockattner]

This is an ingenious solution Sergey! Albeit a LOT of work!

 

[serikoff]

@Corsair , @dockattner , as they say, everything ingenious is simple... I do not confess to the authorship of this method (definitely during this time someone thought of this), but at the same time, I did not see such a decision on the network. And now, I can say that this method works.

In addition to the previous post, here are the results of my overlapping skin method (imitation, which in fact is done end to end).

In the photo below, you can see that the boards at their ends go butt coupling ...



... and then kind of overlapping... but at the same time it is only imitation.



The situation is the same on the opposite side (under the stern).



A couple of macro photos...





Well, the general view, in which the "steps" are clearly visible.





By the way, the front geometry is plus or minus mirror, but from the stern... unfortunately, I already see that the left and right parts are not the same, and now it will be necessary to do as much as possible due to the correction of the thickness of the rails so that visually everything seems mirrored...



I finished two belts, and the second will already be cut off at the waterline (I haven't done that yet). And now I will sheathe the front of the case to the waterline with the same light pear... well, then... I'll tell you later ...until I continue...

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

That‘s a really clever method to simulate the clinker planking. I am now rethinking the planned representation of my model.

 

[serikoff]

That‘s a really clever method to simulate the clinker planking. I am now rethinking the planned representation of my model.

So that you understand, I thought about implementing this method for several weeks... I just don't have a machine for making grooves in the board like it was in the original, but that's not the point. Then, the width of the board depends on this groove on both sides of the boards, and this needs to be taken into account before making these grooves. And this is not an option if you need to change the width of the board on the spot later. In this method, the width of the board can be changed at any time, even when it is already glued. Simply sand the end of the board to the desired profile and thickness and you can calibrate it so that the width of the skin on the left and right sides is always the same. The only thing is that this method is for skinning the entire ship, so that it is not visible from the inside that it is an imitation. Well, and so that you can glue the joints from the inside to strengthen the connections. Or use glue so that it fills all the voids between the frames and the boards.

 

[serikoff]

It would seem that everything seems to be with the second belt, but no. Since the waterline runs along this belt, it needs to make a notch for a dark pear.



At the beginning, I made this device. I fixed the blade on the tip of the measuring altimeter...



... and made a through cut in a few passes.







The result is an accurate horizontal cutline.



Which naturally passed along the level of the waterline.



Then I cut out a blank from a dark pear, which was slightly larger than the part that I cut off from a light pear...



And previously glued a strip of veneer to the body to provide a step.





And then he glued a fragment of a dark pear, fitting it in size and contact to a light pear.



The seam was filled with liquid CA (not gel). Sometimes bubbles form in the gel and during grinding this leads to voids. So I began to use liquid CA for this (sometimes in several runs, since it could not fill the entire seam at once).

Then, after grinding along the plane...



I calibrated the board to 6mm and...
UPD: But it is better to do it this way: cover with a 6 mm board and cut off the excess with a blade as per a template.



... excess polished with sandpaper.

And in the end it turned out like this.





You can see the clear silhouette of the board, but the waterline line clearly separates the light from the dark pear.

Now, the second belt is over. And 15 more to come... uh...

 

[serikoff]

Well, I'm starting the third belt...



... and it consists of 3 parts. The front is a light pear, the middle is dark, and the back is again light.



I really like this view. I'm already in anticipation of what it will look like when there is all the cladding.

So, in front, after fixing the board of a light pear, I cut off the excess along the waterline.







Then I prepare a dark pear board and fix it at the cut point and repeat all the same procedures.





With one difference, here I use a template to create the correct tapering profile from 6 mm to 4 mm.



Well, after grinding along the plane and along the edge, the following result is obtained.





Behind, everything is the same...













Since the boards overlap (with a step), then only at a horizontal angle the line will be straight or with a smooth bend, but...



... if you look from below at the expense of steps, the line goes a little with an offset, which is natural for such geometry.



Well, the 3rd belt is now officially over... and 14 more to come.... seems like infinity, but! After 2-3 belts, the joints will end first at the back, and the turn of 6-7 belts and in front. And then you will need to glue only one board (on each side) for one belt without joints, which greatly simplifies the task... but at the same time there is still a lot of work. Moreover, it will be monotonous and there will be little to show you, except perhaps a step-by-step report on the work done... Let's go further!...

---

P.S. by the way, a little statistics...

At the moment, the construction lasts half a year.
During these six months of 117 days, I made 2 buildings at once.
583 parts in the 1st housing and 229 parts in the 2nd.

I don't know why you need it, but let it be.

​

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Sergey,

You're a real magician. It's amazing what you get out of the construction. I'm always amazed at your intelligent construction methods. It's fun to watch.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

absolutely amazing. congratulations.

 

[Peter Voogt]

Well, I'm starting the third belt...

View attachment 543114

... and it consists of 3 parts. The front is a light pear, the middle is dark, and the back is again light.

View attachment 543115

I really like this view. I'm already in anticipation of what it will look like when there is all the cladding.

So, in front, after fixing the board of a light pear, I cut off the excess along the waterline.

View attachment 543116

View attachment 543117

View attachment 543118

Then I prepare a dark pear board and fix it at the cut point and repeat all the same procedures.

View attachment 543119

View attachment 543120

With one difference, here I use a template to create the correct tapering profile from 6 mm to 4 mm.

View attachment 543121

Well, after grinding along the plane and along the edge, the following result is obtained.

View attachment 543122

View attachment 543123

Behind, everything is the same...

View attachment 543125

View attachment 543126

View attachment 543127

View attachment 543128

View attachment 543129

View attachment 543130

Since the boards overlap (with a step), then only at a horizontal angle the line will be straight or with a smooth bend, but...

View attachment 543131

... if you look from below at the expense of steps, the line goes a little with an offset, which is natural for such geometry.

View attachment 543132

Well, the 3rd belt is now officially over... and 14 more to come.... seems like infinity, but! After 2-3 belts, the joints will end first at the back, and the turn of 6-7 belts and in front. And then you will need to glue only one board (on each side) for one belt without joints, which greatly simplifies the task... but at the same time there is still a lot of work. Moreover, it will be monotonous and there will be little to show you, except perhaps a step-by-step report on the work done... Let's go further!...

---

P.S. by the way, a little statistics...

At the moment, the construction lasts half a year.
During these six months of 117 days, I made 2 buildings at once.
583 parts in the 1st housing and 229 parts in the 2nd.

I don't know why you need it, but let it be.

​

Nice planking with beautiful joinery, Sergey.
Regards, Peter

 

[Corsair]

wonderful work !

 

[serikoff]

Hey Sergey,

You're a real magician. It's amazing what you get out of the construction. I'm always amazed at your intelligent construction methods. It's fun to watch.

absolutely amazing. congratulations.

Nice planking with beautiful joinery, Sergey.
Regards, Peter

wonderful work !

Friends, thank you very much for your feedback and your high rating. It is very nice and very motivating to continue to tell in detail about what I do. Today I almost did another one (4th belt). And since all the procedures are similar to those that I have already shown, I will only show the result. Thanks again!

 

[dockattner]

Sergey, congratulations on your success this far. This is inspiring modeling!

 

[serikoff]

Sergey, congratulations on your success this far. This is inspiring modeling!

Thanks Paul. I used to travel constantly like you do now, but unfortunately the war has taken that opportunity away from me at the moment, so I compensate for the lack of one dopamine with another.

 

[dockattner]

Thanks Paul. I used to travel constantly like you do now, but unfortunately the war has taken that opportunity away from me at the moment, so I compensate for the lack of one dopamine with another.

We get our fix where we can. Let’s hope you ( and really people everywhere) will be soon able to travel freely and live their lives unhindered.