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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame

When you first were showing the deck installed, I was rather disappointed to see so many beautiful below deck's details disappear from sight. Seeing your picture from the inside out however has gotten me over the initial disappointment: she looks marvelous.

As far as the mystery of the lashing of these hatches is concerned; it must have been a simple, robust process, not something gremlins could accomplish.
 
RDN1954 said:
When you first were showing the deck installed, I was rather disappointed to see so many beautiful below deck's details disappear from sight. Seeing your picture from the inside out however has gotten me over the initial disappointment: she looks marvelous.

As far as the mystery of the lashing of these hatches is concerned; it must have been a simple, robust process, not something gremlins could accomplish.
Click to expand...
The ‘disappearance’ was also a moment in my mind and considered a partly decking like the Bluenose, Johan. A kind of ingrained way of working.
But I had watched the tying of the hatches from the beginning and always had a full view of the inside. Hadn't had to fill the holds completely with barrels. Only the front was enough. But they are now, as far as visible, in their original stacking manner.
Regards, Peter
 
Now I have arrived at what was on my mind during the entire build: will plating the frames result in a tight hull?

Thanks to the earlier alignment of the rows of plates:
0501 Huidgang.jpg
I was able to apply the next 3 rows quite quickly.

I had already applied 2 rows with 005"/0.13 mm plate:
0513 2e-rij.jpg
But the thin material is counterproductive, especially in the places where the hull goes from concave to convex. I then have to work the plate on 2 sides, which is roughly the same as forcing copper plate:
0682 Plates.jpg
The thin material does not retain its shape but goes its own way with further deformation. When gluing, the surface also melts a little, which in this case also promotes further deformation. This was already clearly visible in the first 2 rows where the curvature of the shapes was not yet very strong.
That is why I switched to 010"/0.25 mm plate. This was much easier to deform.

Then this is the rough result so far:
0683 Plates.jpg
Now still in bright over-shining white, but with a little subdued light the contours come out nicely.
0684 Plates.jpg
0685 Plates.jpg
On the plates I have marked the position of the frames. Vertical rows of rivets should come there. I just have to test whether I first spray a base coat and then stick the rivets. Which gives the best adhesion of the rivet decals. I have to stick the waterline to make the transition from black to light blue. Maybe the pencil lines will remain visible with a thin base coat.

The plating on the back has a specific gradient. Here is the original:
0686 Plates.jpg
I had to mirror it to be able to compare the visible starboard side with my port side.

A brief explanation of the next step:
I now have to make the 6th row very precisely to size in order to be able to attach the bulwark to it:
0687 Plates.jpg
The 6th row (A) must protrude 1.6 mm above the outer angle iron (B) of the waterway. The plate for the bulwark (C) is on top of it, on the inside of the 6th row.
There are then 2 rows of rivets over the entire length. Skin plate A has a connection with angle iron B and bulwark plate C is attached to the top of skin plate A. At the top of the 6th skin plate, the connection with the bottom of the bulwark plate is covered with a half-round bumper.
Regards, Peter
 
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Jimsky said:
Wow! What beautiful hull lines she has, truly a graceful form from stem to stern. You can really see the balance between elegance and purpose in her shape. Bravo, mon ami! That’s the kind of craftsmanship that makes this hobby such a joy to follow.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your compliments and very nice words, Jim. ‘Graceful’, that the right word for her.
Regards, Peter
 
Daniel20 said:
The plating looks like it reveals the hulls shape quite well. It will be interesting how the light plays along its length (shadows, high and low areas) after you paint it.
I bet the rivets play an important role in the light's reflections too.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Daniel. I have the advantage that the hull of the original Balder is also ‘not perfect’. That’s the (dis)advantage of a hull riveted on frames:
IMG_4566.jpeg
(Source: from the internet, picture from Ernst Lohmann, after placing the new masts on the Balder.)
Here is the light almost along her hull.
Regards, Peter
 
Peter Voogt said:
Now I have arrived at what was already on my mind during the entire build: will plating the frames result in a tight hull?

Thanks to the earlier alignment of the rows of plates:
View attachment 520509
I was able to apply the next 3 rows quite quickly.

I had already applied 2 rows with 005"/0.13 mm plate:
View attachment 520510
But the thin material is counterproductive, especially in the places where the hull goes from concave to convex. I then have to work the plate on 2 sides, which is roughly the same as forcing copper plate:
View attachment 520511
The thin material does not retain its shape but goes its own way with further deformation. When gluing, the surface also melts a little, which in this case also promotes further deformation. This was already clearly visible in the first 2 rows where the curvature of the shapes was not yet very strong.
That is why I switched to 010"/0.25 mm plate. This was much easier to deform.

Then this is the rough result so far:
View attachment 520512
Now still in bright over-shining white, but with a little subdued light the contours come out nicely.
View attachment 520513
View attachment 520514
On the plates I have marked the position of the frames. Vertical rows of rivets should come there. I just have to test whether I first spray a base coat and then stick the rivets. Which gives the best adhesion of the rivet decals. I have to stick the waterline to make the transition from black to light blue. Maybe the pencil lines will remain visible with a thin base coat.

The plating on the back has a specific gradient. Here is the original:
View attachment 520515
I had to mirror it to be able to compare the visible starboard side with my port side.

A brief explanation of the next step:
I now have to make the 6th row very precisely to size in order to be able to attach the bulwark to it:
View attachment 520516
The 6th row (A) must protrude 1.6 mm above the outer angle iron (B) of the waterway. The plate for the bulwark (C) is on top of it, on the inside of the 6th row.
There are then 2 rows of rivets over the entire length. Skin plate A has a connection with angle iron B and bulwark plate C is attached to the top of skin plate A. At the top of the 6th skin plate, the connection with the bottom of the bulwark plate is covered with a half-round bumper.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Good evening Peter. Very impressive work. I am holding my breath for your next step….. Cheers Grant
 
Roger Pellett said:
Very nice hull plating Peter. I have a similar experience using brass. .005” is too thin for almost any application. The minimum thickness that I use is .010” even though it’s over scale. Fortunately, all that the eye sees in either case is “thin.”

Roger
Click to expand...
Thanks for the compliments, Roger. I am glad that we have the same experience with the useable minimum thickness.
Regards, Peter
 
The next step I could make was the 6th row of hull plates:
0688 6e rij.jpg
Started at the front with the 1st plate that moves slightly outwards. Then 4 plates that are increasingly positioned slightly more upright until just past the middle. Then 3 plates that move further outwards and form the overhang of the aft ship.
0689 6e rij.jpg
To be on the safe side, let the plates protrude 2 mm above the outer corner line where the bulwark plates are attached.

I cannot yet glue this row and start working on the bulwark. First, 6 scuppers have to be made in this row:
0690 Spui.jpg
There are 6 holes in the waterways for this purpose with 90 degree pipes that drain to the side.
The photo also shows 2 of the 3 valves that are in the bulwark. These will be done later when cutting the bulwark plates to size.

First placed these 6 tubes in the construction starboard side part:
0691 Spui.jpg
With the corresponding holes in the waterways:
0692 Spui.jpg
Based on the dimensions I could now drill the holes in the plates of the 6th row:
0693 Spui.jpg
Then I can now place the (parts of) the tubes on the inside of these plates and the waterway.

All in all, I have to think very carefully about which parts to apply at which step.
Regards, Peter
 
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Peter Voogt said:
The next step I could make was the 6th row of hull plates:
View attachment 521002
Started at the front with the 1st plate that moves slightly outwards. Then 4 plates that are increasingly positioned slightly more upright until just past the middle. Then 3 plates that move further outwards and form the overhang of the aft ship.
View attachment 521003
To be on the safe side, let the plates protrude 2 mm above the outer corner line where the bulwark plates are attached.

I cannot yet glue this row and start working on the bulwark. First, 6 scuppers have to be made in this row:
View attachment 521004
There are 6 holes in the waterways for this purpose with 90 degree pipes that drain to the side.
The photo also shows 2 of the 3 valves that are in the bulwark. These will be done later when cutting the bulwark plates to size.

First placed these 6 tubes in the construction port side part:
View attachment 521005
With the corresponding holes in the waterways:
View attachment 521006
Based on the dimensions I could now drill the holes in the plates of the 6th row:
View attachment 521007
Then I can now place the (parts of) the tubes on the inside of these plates and the waterway.

All in all, I have to think very carefully about which parts to apply at which step.
Regards, Peter
Click to expand...
Bravo bravo. So very good and I did not have to hold my breath very long…
 
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