Thanks, Mike! Fortunately I only had to make 8 blocks total! Even those few took about 2 hours to do, with parts squirting out of my fingers onto the floor as I tried to sand the blocks to shape. Imagine hand making blocks for a fully rigged ship!
Very nice blocks, Dave! ...and yes, when parts from the kit look great and fit well - is great, but a bit different joy when you make parts on your own. I can feel this enjoyment!
The scratch builder must be made them all, even for a fully rigged ship, even for a three-decker... that's WOW
Good explanation Dave, Question, do you thin the linseed oil with turpentine before using it ?, the oil then penetrates better into the wood and becomes easier to apply, it may get a little lighter and the turpentine smells very much, BDW, nice result.
Thanks for the good advice Dave, as I do regular wooden boats I tend to thin oils, paint and even tar, in the first two layers
to be sure of good penetration into the wood.
However, now only models of wood apply.
This is the sequence for making the deadeye stropping and chain plates. This style of chain plate was in use by the British Royal navy before 1760. Blandford was launched in 1720.
I started with a length of 18 gauge copper wire (adjust based on scale and deadeye size). I wrapped it around the deadeye (a sacrificial deadeye, not the final one) and then clamped the two wires about 3/16" from the deadeye with a pair of pliers. With another pliers I squeezed the two wires between the first pair of pliers and the deadeye to create a tight strop with two parallel copper wires.
I then soldered the two copper wires together. Be careful not to solder too close to the deadeye or you won't be able to remove it. Once soldered, remove the sacrificial deadeye (you can use it again!).
File the soldered "strap" flat and remove any excess solder.
Blacken the chainplate and install the finish deadeye. Mine were dyed black.
Bend the chainplate to fit the channel and butt up against the hull. Drill a hole in the end of the chainplate, and with an awl mark the location on the hull where you'll pin the chainplate. Use the hole in the chainplate to mark the location. Drill that hole.
I use soft solder. Tin, not lead these days, but melts at low temperature. For a model like this, where there is no stress on the deadeyes or chain plates, soft solder is plenty strong. It also makes filing a lot easier! I find that Brass Black works fine. The trick is to degrease with acetone, etch with HCl (muriatic acid) and then only leave the part in the Brass Black for a short period. The longer the part sits in the blackening, the more likely the blackening will rub off. Use 2 or 3 washes with blackening to get it as dark as you'd like.
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) is a strong acid that has a lot of commercial and industrial uses. If serves to "etch" the surface of the metal so the blackener can work. You could use white vinegar, but you'd need to leave the parts in there for a much longer time.
Here in Norway, the farmers use something called antacid to preserve grass / fodder, and masons use the salt acid that they use to wash finished brick walls, have you heard of these acids? kan Some of these acids may replace that type of acid that you use ?.
Do you use the same procedure for both brass and copper ?.
This topic is very intriguing as I will try / learn this technique later in my project. Thanks