Donnie's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build: 1/32 Scale [COMPLETED BUILD]

[Uwek]

But the wood should not burn only by sanding, so I would reduce the speed, or sand (if you are using a disk sander) more on the inside, where the speed of the moving grid is much less than at the outside

 

[DocBlake]

I like the burning effect on the edges, the real question - how the glue will adhere to the burned edges?

Not really an issue, Jim. The butt joints are not structural...only affect appearance. Even a “wide open” butt joint won‘t weaken a frame.

 

[DocBlake]

With single frames, constructed of timbers with scarfs and chocks, the joints are critical, and if not close to perfect may fail, as Mike has pointed out!

 

[Donnie]

Thank you all again for your valuable input. I will watch the next time to manage the sander burns. Here is the latest. Nothing to say, I just let the pics speak for themselves. Yes, I am aware that the Rabbet is not cut yet. I also will need to add the treenails.

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[Brewbrarian]

I hope that I do not make too many of my friends here "cringe" at my efforts.

I applaud you for jumping in, and I've been nothing by impressed with your work (and advice) so far. I'm sure you'll do a great job, Donnie. I plan to watch your Blandford build closely, as I am hoping to get on board the Frame Train with the Trident Alert build.

 

[Uwek]

Very clean and accurate work, and fits completely correct into the jig
->>> Congratulations for your first finished frame, which is looking for 100% good
->>> Really good my friend

 

[Norway]

Very nice result Donnie, don't make the same mistake with the placement and number of nails as me, you probably see it in the pictures in my build log.

 

[Mike41]

Hi Donnie,
The frames get easier to make as you continue the build, you should not have any problems with the rest of them.

 

[DocBlake]

Very nice job, Donnie! You’ve got this!

 

[Jimsky]

There is really nothing to add what others said, really accurate(clean) and pression joints, not to mention a foot notch!!

 

[Donnie]

I am REALLY humbled by all the expert's builders' comments. I truly am. I really appreciate all the positive feedback.

Kindly and sincerely,
Donald

 

[Winston]

It's looking really good Donnie! Learning to scratch build really opens up your eyes to the possibilities of potential future builds you can take on.

 

[MystRacing]

In post 96 you mentioned a down cut endmill. I've done tons of milling of metal but not wood. Do you use a down cutting mill for everything or just in particular situations.

 

[Donnie]

The down-cut end mill that I bought and used for this, is specifically for wood and plastic. I have never tried using this endmill for anything else. The design of this particular end mill allows for a clean-cut and does not tear or fray the wood or make fuzzies. I tried to use a regular end mill to do wood a long time ago and it did not cut clean. There is something about the TIP design that keeps the cuts clean in wood.
This is the link to get the down-cuts. http://www.2linc.com/endmills_downcut_2fl.htm

• 20° Downcut Helix pushes burrs downward to improve top edge appearance and prevents workpiece lifting on vacuum chucks.
• Extremely sharp cutting edge allows high feedrates while producing an excellent surface finish.
• Center cutting for straight plunging or ramping down into workpiece.
• Standard and Metric Size End Mills.
• Produced from a Premium, Ultra-Fine, Nano Grade Solid Carbide for maximum tool strength and durability.

 

[MystRacing]

Thanks for the link... That just cost me a hundred bucks.


Just kidding, I really appreciate it.

 

[Donnie]

A little break in the action - I am gluing the spreader bar and while that is being done, I took some pics of this bronze looking (actually says antique brass on the label) that I saw at Hobby Lobby that I liked. The color is slightly darker than the pic shows. It is a dull-looking - old copper type look.
I will give a report as to my findings and how it works out.

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[Donnie]

I have these two frames just sitting in the jig for a loose test fit. Nothing is fixed down. Probably a regret later, but instead of filing each notch at an angle to make the frames set in place better, I just decided to make the top of jig lower. About 5 to 6mm or so.

The keel is not lined up - I do not have the 3/32 tubing installed yet. So, we will see what happens when I start securing things down. The Birch is really nice to work with (thank you Dave/ lumberyard).

I finally figured out how to sand off parts w no burn. I just scan the part from the outside of the sanding wheel to the inner inside of the sanding wheel and push in a little as I scan across. The second frame is little evidence of no wood burning. I left a little hangover on the front of the keel and it will be trimmed even. The keel is deflecting a little as nothing is secured down but just sitting in the jig.

The latest. . .

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[DocBlake]

Beautiful job on those frames!

 

[Mike41]

Looking good Donnie keep up the good work.

 

[Donnie]

Thanks, guys for the compliments. Well, I found out that what seems all square is not all square and lined up. I forgot to mill a notch in the spreader bar. Now, that I think about it, I should have milled like a 1/4 x 1/4" or 5mm x 5mm notch so that I could take a square rod to press down into each spreader to make sure the upper part of frames were square. But, I got this technique going and is working well for the moment. I just measured the centerline of each spreader bar and penciled in a line on each bar, then used a square rod of wood to use as a batten for alignment for trueness.
The camera is slightly off-center and makes the frames and alignment bar look off center, but it is not. Therefore, this is what I have so far:

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