french 64-gunner LE FLEURON in scale 1:48 by Joachim

The main deck beams are set. The aisles are embedded in the recesses in the deck beams. In this kind I will leave the cannon deck for this moment to allow a deeper look into the hold later. In a few places, such as for example for the cannons, I will still occasionally set deck beams locally, but probably not continuously from bow to stern.FD2674C5-831B-456A-A01C-282F1D6F14A1.jpeg2D7061A3-60D1-414D-9525-04863473CEA4.jpeg8931B8F5-E21D-47E7-9ADB-6394C8B91880.jpegA3B24459-8D26-4CEA-9145-4F31CDE96EFA.jpegCCAFFD21-5095-4DD2-A897-847DA52D0BA5.jpeg5ED5C769-1A30-4F0C-8F9F-30C8CE8F600D.jpeg24E01C50-3800-4291-AED5-4B345125BAF1.jpegA7D4B753-23D2-4BC7-B3C0-94053A3F70C1.jpegBF39B5D1-A42A-4CAF-B0D7-CC6D21D3F331.jpegC638BF8E-F4DA-4592-AD90-D76042D16596.jpeg6A9E0B44-1EAF-4A7F-9C9F-2AE11CE53777.jpeg
 
Thank you Kurt
The next series production is coming, the gun carriages. Here you can see the first pre-series production of 5 pieces, my work of today. The side walls consist of two parts. I drilled several holes before sawing and sanding.60BB6CF0-8279-45E6-B017-6E16B49FCE02.jpeg2376C7A6-2548-4DBC-AF64-C8D29D99D120.jpegEE264197-9837-4931-A890-9807399E6D03.jpeg
 
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The carriages are very time-consuming, I didn’t think before. There are 24 pieces, consisting of a base plate, 4 parts for the outer walls, 2 axles and four wheels. Saw, plate grinder and lathe (for the round ends of the axles that hold the wheels) are all in use. The carriage is also colored. And then there are fittings Many many steps!88F72B13-423E-4C98-BFA0-26D903BFE061.jpeg1A21A50A-26FB-4B99-859C-8A7F1BB17758.jpeg758AE7FF-F55F-4AA0-86A6-E080363DFB8C.jpegA1FC687B-23A3-40AA-868B-1EC545EA8826.jpeg67D73BF9-3178-473E-B766-7252232501FC.jpeg983C1DB7-A8C9-4A03-9A05-F0D8CA14998C.jpeg3E6D0ADA-1D73-4BFA-A493-46BAEDACFFAA.jpeg
 
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Three months have passed again. Above all, I sanded a lot. Many hours. Especially the bow, inside and out, as well as the rear inside.
Then I marked the cannon hatches and reinforced the surrounding gaps in the hull with filling wood. The hull is thus much more stable. The first two planks are also now attached. So far, I have always struggled with bending the timber. This time I put the individual bars in a pot for 45 minutes with slightly cooking water. The wood can then be bent without great effort in all directions without splintering. I noticed the 45 minutes in a film of a carpenter who bends wood for chairs.

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My steam-pot :)

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I also created the hatches for the lower cannon deck.

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Stunning work m8!
 
Very nice work JoachimThumbsupI totally agree with Brian,what is the shade of red?The writing on the tube is out of focus in the pictures

Kind Regards

It is red ochre and Winsor Newton is a french company. Amazon sells this colour.

Nigel
 

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Thanks Joachim,didn't think it would be that simple,with probably around twenty shades of red to choose from

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Nice to see the Red Ochre - On paints .... (having been a fine artist for 30 yrs) do watch quality carefully. Cheap paints are not a 'saving' in the long run. This isn't specific comment to Galeria but a general comment. Cheap paints are generally full of fillers and little pigment meaning over time they fade or change colour. So if you are building a quality model use quality paints. Never use 'student' quality paints. These are my personal opinions based on 30 yrs experience with artist's paints.
 
The 24 gun carriages of the first cannon deck are manufactured and painted. I have already attached the iron rings made of burnished brass to the axles. 4 mm brass rods drilled with a 3 mm drill on the lathe and then turned again on the outside to approx. 3.4 mm outer circumference.1CD3E910-3C7F-436F-BABC-3624AD3DFAE8.jpeg5096F8C0-C752-4805-940D-1793E391661F.jpeg
 
The mountings have a lot of fittings. Many bolts, which go through the wooden boards of the carriage, hold them together. At the end they have nuts.

In the pictures you can also see some of the smallest nuts in the world. I produce the nuts on the lathe: 1.5 x 1.5 mm brass rod clamped, the center grained with a center drill and then drilled 2-3 mm Deep. Then I cut approx. 2 slices on the chain saw. As a rule, 2 nuts per working step. Unfortunately not more, because the drill cannot penetrate very deep into the brass rod: If you go deeper into the thin material, the drill no longer goes straight through the rod. It will make a curve and will destroy the nut.

Pipe and fittings are burnished / oiled.

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Wow - Wow - Wow
Looking very good - and many thanks for showing us the way you do it !!!
 
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