I sent a note to the manufacturer and asked about this. They responded they do give instructions in the kit to do this but they did not say if they give the dimensions for the right amount of taper.
Allan
Allan
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- Oct 9, 2020
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Is that pearwood?
Looks great
Looks great
It is pearwood and it's shaping up nicely.
Working with 180 grit to get all the lines smoothed out. Then I'll go back once the shape is right with higher levels of grit to get the smooth finish. As of now you can still see char marks left behind and pencil markings I made early on.
So much sawdust.
Fixed the bow taper.
Small gap in the second photo, will need to fix that before installation.
Small gap in the second photo, will need to fix that before installation.
Made some 3mm strips, with the strips being so thin I use a 1/8 basswood board as support, using double sided tape.
They come out nearly perfect, with little clean up. Also keeps them safe on the workbench.
Putting together the read platform not easy.
Lot of trial and error, shaping and reshaping of pieces. I missed a lot of photos here, but essentially I built downward. Put together all the cabin walls glued them to the platforms and sanded them until they fit into place.
There are probably other ways but I like how it turned out for the most part.
The well isn't glued in place yet, but slowly moving forward. Need to get the mast base in place.
Having an issue with the front platform walls. I have several extra pieces that I don't see where they would fit. But I'm also missing a wall. I have S-8 in place, but there's no second S-8 or same length wall remaining.
So I can either scratch it or leave it without a second wall. We'll see.
They come out nearly perfect, with little clean up. Also keeps them safe on the workbench.
Putting together the read platform not easy.
Lot of trial and error, shaping and reshaping of pieces. I missed a lot of photos here, but essentially I built downward. Put together all the cabin walls glued them to the platforms and sanded them until they fit into place.
There are probably other ways but I like how it turned out for the most part.
The well isn't glued in place yet, but slowly moving forward. Need to get the mast base in place.
Having an issue with the front platform walls. I have several extra pieces that I don't see where they would fit. But I'm also missing a wall. I have S-8 in place, but there's no second S-8 or same length wall remaining.
So I can either scratch it or leave it without a second wall. We'll see.
You just have to trust the process and hope you're earlier builds were in the correct spot. Of the initial set of beams I've only had to remove and relocate one. Another one I just shortened the elbow to fit into place.
I looked at the next step in the plans several times and for whatever reason I didn't realize that the next step was the building the entire floor of L2, otherwise I wouldn't have glued them in place without all the other pieces in place first. Luckily it worked out.
In the meantime I'm debating whether I want to include ballast.
I'm looking at some woodland scenics HO scale ballast, probably course. Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts, I did a quick search and didn't see other builds with ballast, or at least not using the search terms I used.
I looked at the next step in the plans several times and for whatever reason I didn't realize that the next step was the building the entire floor of L2, otherwise I wouldn't have glued them in place without all the other pieces in place first. Luckily it worked out.
In the meantime I'm debating whether I want to include ballast.
I'm looking at some woodland scenics HO scale ballast, probably course. Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts, I did a quick search and didn't see other builds with ballast, or at least not using the search terms I used.
Good morning. Wow, congratulations. This is superb modeling. Cheers Grant
Thanks!
, looking for thoughts here. Here is medium by itself.
Then medium with large mixed in.
There's also a fine ballast that I will likely mix into which every mix I decide. I think I like how it looks so I think I'll keep the ballast, just a matter of scale. At 1/96 are these the right size
I hope you find the following contemporary drawing on ballasting and barrel storage interesting. Note that the ballast laid on the planking was ingots that were laid to within about 5 inches of the limber boards. There was no ballast next to the keelson. be it shingle as in your photos or pieces of iron. The first photo is a piece of iron ballast (kentledge) circa 1800. These ingots varied in size from about 4"X4" X1' to as large as 6" X6"X3' Shingle was then typically laid on top of the ingots to help secure the barrels. The second post is a typical layout using kentledge on the left and the stowage barrels on the right. The last drawing is a plan of the ballast of the HMS Crescent as stowed by the orders of Captain W. M. Ge Lobb, at Deptford on 6 May 1799.
Allan
Allan
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Very helpful again.
So since I have no scale ingots the ballast will have to do. Based on these drawings I believe I'll want to use the small/medium ballast above and keep it in the green highlighted areas.
I wasn't planning on doing barrels, but I wonder if I could find some 1/96 barrels
That should work but you can take it down to the limber boards once you install them. On the plan below I drew in shingle only on the left and kentledge and shingle on the right, both of which end at the limber boards. The limber boards rest in place and are loose so they are easy to lift so the ballast should leave them accessible. Hope this is useful.
Allan
Those limber boards don't appear to be included in the kit, so I think I'll scratch those. Would those run the entire length of the keel?
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if I may,Yes along the keel.Frank
Except where the pump tubes and steps were located.
It is really great to see you go for it and scratch build them as they are so easy to make being no more than a bunch of simple pieces with a couple holes in each end. At 1:96 any scrap less than 1mm thick and 3 or 4mm wide can be used and should look good.
From one contract of 1776:
To prepare Limber Boards of 3 inch Plank of a proper Length, for the more easy taking up, and to do everything in the Hold of the said Ship as shall be necessary, and as usual to a Ship of War.
From a contract in 1702
Limber Boards To be Two Inches and a halfe Thick and One foot Two Inches Broad on Each Side the Kelson.
The Elements and Practice of Naval Archirtecture gives thicknesses up to 3.5 inches for first rates and the individual pieces were not to exceed three feet in length.
Allan
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Just came across this. Lovely build. Well done. Fantastic
True story.
First timber boards in place.
Considering putting some boards down on the sides where the elbows don't look perfect. Debating on what point to put down the ballast, in sections starting now, or once the entire level is in place. Thinking now is probably best.
Considering putting some boards down on the sides where the elbows don't look perfect. Debating on what point to put down the ballast, in sections starting now, or once the entire level is in place. Thinking now is probably best.