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Fully agree. That's superbe!
I concur with those before me. This is really great work
Thanks all, working at such a small scale hides some of the errors. The joiner isn't great on some of these. The alignment also isn't perfect.
There's technically another row that goes on both sides, but I'll probably skip those because that will be planked, not sure yet.
There's technically another row that goes on both sides, but I'll probably skip those because that will be planked, not sure yet.
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it's looks beautiful
Installed and cleaned up to make the decking more level, well level at the curvature it's supposed to have.
Also installed a few pieces of decking to cover up some of the most unaligned portions.
Might put another deck plank or two in to give some added stability and foundation for the next level.
Also installed a few pieces of decking to cover up some of the most unaligned portions.
Might put another deck plank or two in to give some added stability and foundation for the next level.
Looking Fantastic! Lovely work.
True stoy
Story
She is looking beautiful ! Great job !
This may help. They've made a 1/48 version with more details. It appears they're including this sheet which explains that you need to cut out small squares for fitting.
On the 1/98 version it implies you should just cut the pieces flat and glue them to the beams. But what I did and what is proper is to cut into the bream and fit the piece across.
If you look very closely at mine you'll see they aren't perfectly aligned but I got better as I went.
What I eventually did was use one uncut piece and laid it across the beams in the place I wanted. Then used double sided tape to make it stick temporarily, while there I made cuts that you see in the photo, then cut out the middle pieces.
If that makes sense.
I used a flat blade to mark the outside, then I used a Dremel but to bore out the space, and a chisel to square it off.
Hi. How do you know and get the spacing for the beans. Is there a definite measurement ?
Or did you take the measurements from the plan?
Or did you take the measurements from the plan?
These are clearly shown for each deck on the original deck and inboard profile drawings. The round up for each deck is given in the contract as well. In the case of Enterprize, there are two sets, one as she was a fighting ship, and another set when she was de-masted and converted to a receiving ship in the Thames, a rather ignominious end to her career IMHO. An example of the upper deck of the original design is below. Note that some of the beams were shifted when built and shown with red lines
Allan
Rounding varied for each deck. I am curious to know how accurate the rounding is on the kit plans. NOTE: The platform beams in the hold have no rounding
From the contract:
LOWER DECK…. Beams to round 4 ins Plank thick 2 1/2 ins height from the plank of the lower deck to the upper side of the upper Deck Beams at the middle of the Beams, Afore 5ft 11ins & Abaft 5 ft 11 ins
UPPER DECK….. Height from the Upper Side of the Plank of the Upper Deck, to the Upper Side of the Quarter Deck Beams, at the Middle of the Beam, Afore
6 ft 2 ins, Abaft 6 ft 11 ins height of the Waste from the Upper Side of the Plank of the Deck at the Lowest Place 5 ft 2 ins height of the upper side of the lower port sill from the upper side of the plank of the upper deck 1 ft 9 ins, Ports deep 2 ft 3 ½ ins, fore & aft 2 ft 3 ½ ins Beams to round 7 ins, Plank thick 3 ins height from the upper side of the Plank of the upper Deck to the upper side of the fore Castle Beam at the middle of the Beam afore 5 ft 10 ins abaft 5 ft 10 ins.
FORECASTLE Beams to round 6 ins , Planks thick 2½ ins Long taken at the middle line of the deck form the Aftside of the Stem to the After Beam 27 ft 6in
QUARTER DECK… Beams to round 6 ins, Plank thick 2½ ins height from the plank of the Quarterdeck to the upper side of the port sill 18 ins Ports deep 2 ft fore & aft 2 ft the Quarterdeck to be continued in Length so far forward as that the foremost Beam may receive a Tenon in the underside from the Head of the Main Jeer Bitts.
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Does "rounding" refer to the amount of crown on the beam as measured from the clamp to the centerline? How is this compensated for at the ends of the ship where the hull narrows to keep the deck from bulging up disproportionately?
Yes, it's the curve upwards from the clamp to the centerline. I have never found, so far, explicit explanations of the variations from beam to beam. The following is my understanding, but if someone has found a written explanation that is the same or totally different that they can share that would be great. The round up will be less as the beams are shorter in length but the arcs for each beam would be parallel to each other. Basically I make all the beams the same for a given deck then cut each end so it is the correct length to sit on the clamps.
Allan
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When (if
) I get my 1/48 kit, you are welcome to come over and review it to your hearts content. 
So I made a mistake when I did this. I tried to match the beam spacing to the floor plan below based upon the sheet that came with the kit. In fact, you'll see the beam spacing is determined by the pieces that fit between them. When I finally went to finish the flooring the knees and supports didn't fit perfectly because I didn't space them correctly. Really how it should be done is the beams should be installed at the same time as the knees.
See I had to adjust the spacing to make it fit. And you probably want to start from the bow and work backwards, instead of stern forward. The reason why is because the second floor must align to this floor and I think the way it's designed is that will happen if you space things correctly.
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Just my $0.02 worth, but in my opinion, you're better off matching the locations to the drawings like you were. The lodging knees look like they come from a laser cut sheet (if I'm seeing the sheet in the upper left of your photo correctly). That means that you are sanding them to clean up the char. This will introduce inconsistencies in the sizes of the knees. If you then use them to space your beams, the errors could accumulate and cause you more problems later, such as falling short by the time you get to the end or possibly crooked beams. If you place the beams according to the drawings, you can then adjust the size of the knees and carlings to fit.