HMS Victory by Y.T.- Mamoli - 1:90 scale

Kkonrath

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Black sharpies sometimes rub off in handling. Also some brands leave a slight shine to color.

I think Indian ink or I have heard others in my railroad community mix black shoe dye or leather dye with alcohol for dyeing wood.
 

Jimsky

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Alright, Y.T. Black Sharpie may also work, I have not used it, though. As an alternative, you may use a Minwax Ebony stain, it will also penetrate the wood.
 

Maarten

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I would dye them with black ecoline or indian ink and finish with oil afterwards. The wood looks like walnut.
 

Kkonrath

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looks good but make sure to degrease and clean well before treating!

I will be waiting to see them installed on the ship.
 

Kkonrath

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Your last post on that subject said you used a sofa solution after blacking, what is this sofa solution.
 
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Your last post on that subject said you used a sofa solution after blacking
Hi Kkonrath, I had to write a "soda" solution. It was a spelling mistake. Sequence of events is this . Put parts to be blackened into warm Sparex (acid used by jewellers to remove oxides after soldering). Then neutralize parts by putting them into SODA solution. Then we dry the parts. Then blacken parts with best blackening method we like.
 

Kkonrath

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Thanks I got the info now, have to test on one of my small bay dredge boats with some small fittings that need blackening.
 
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Now I am looking at brackets on outside of port lids. This is what kit provides. I also look at pictures of existing lids. I do not know how I can use kit brackets. They do not have welded rings for raising the lid. Besides kit instructions suggest just one string to pull the lid up at centre of lids. Existing lids have two strings. One more problem kit brackets are cast and not to high quality standards. I don’t know how to proceed.

A0A15061-D3B8-4467-92B7-6A97D71F0E8A.jpeg

V (91).JPG
 

Maarten

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Looks like if you want high quality you have to make them yourselve from brass strip, a daunting task for 200 pieces.
 
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