Hohenzollernmodell 1660-1670 Scale 1/75 POF build by Stephan Kertész (Steef66)

Thanks for the visit and the likes and @Uwek thanks for liking my clamps, the concept is more then 500 years old, I just combined it with a parallel clamp and useable for a model ship.

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The first layer after the garboard strake was difficult. Need the hot Frankenstein wood bender to make everything in shape. The second layer of the planking of the bottom was easier to do. Just weak it in water and fasten it wet on the first layer. Gravity does the rest. After drying the plank have the correct shape and can be glued and clamped again.

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Here you can see the result of the first 1,5 layers of planks of the bottom.

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This is not that hard to do, When you feel the wood how it bends and make sure the planks adjust correctly to each other the layers come in the correct way together. Patience is the keyword.

Thanks for watching.
 
Thanks for the visit and the likes and @Uwek thanks for liking my clamps, the concept is more then 500 years old, I just combined it with a parallel clamp and useable for a model ship.

View attachment 365831

The first layer after the garboard strake was difficult. Need the hot Frankenstein wood bender to make everything in shape. The second layer of the planking of the bottom was easier to do. Just weak it in water and fasten it wet on the first layer. Gravity does the rest. After drying the plank have the correct shape and can be glued and clamped again.

View attachment 365812
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Here you can see the result of the first 1,5 layers of planks of the bottom.

View attachment 365815View attachment 365816View attachment 365817View attachment 365818View attachment 365819View attachment 365820View attachment 365822View attachment 365824View attachment 365825

This is not that hard to do, When you feel the wood how it bends and make sure the planks adjust correctly to each other the layers come in the correct way together. Patience is the keyword.

Thanks for watching.
Not hard to do, he says. This is almost as bad as the use of certain saws.
I do look forward to your next updates.
 
The construction in the model is identical to the original construction.
That is admirable!
Thanks Johann, it is also very instructive to do. You learn so much through this. I am starting to get more and more insight into why that typical hull shape of these Dutchmen came about.

Not hard to do, he says. This is almost as bad as the use of certain saws.
I do look forward to your next updates.
I always forget that I'm wired differently Alien. Installing the boards is easy using those old tools. But to take into account the shape of the ship, the sheer and the dimensions of everything. That is indeed a level extra high. Indeed, I have to take so much to consider to get the bottom right. Whether I will manage this the first time. I might just have to start all over again. I hope not so I will take my time.
And then there is also a Japanese saw on the corner of the table calling out in a small voice, "Use me, use me...." :p :cool:
 
Thanks Johann, it is also very instructive to do. You learn so much through this. I am starting to get more and more insight into why that typical hull shape of these Dutchmen came about.


I always forget that I'm wired differently Alien. Installing the boards is easy using those old tools. But to take into account the shape of the ship, the sheer and the dimensions of everything. That is indeed a level extra high. Indeed, I have to take so much to consider to get the bottom right. Whether I will manage this the first time. I might just have to start all over again. I hope not so I will take my time.
And then there is also a Japanese saw on the corner of the table calling out in a small voice, "Use me, use me...." :p :cool:
My standard reflex in these kind of cases is: where are the form templates? That would give me some insurance on the correctness of the shape of the bottom hull (and less risk of unintentional use of the dustbin). Do I understand correctly that it's basically eyeballing the correct shape of the shell?

A whispering saw; nothing to it, you just contracted the SHV (Split Hull Virus). The only thing is now to let it run it's course.... Van harte beterschap!

Joha
 
She is looking great Stephan, can't wait to start mine :)
I would mark the stern and stem post at 1/3 of the depth of the hold.
This as the planking of floor and bilge would not exceed this height during planking according to Witsen.

Look at Ab s book of Abel Tasman where he shows this.
 
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She is looking great Stephan, can't wait to start mine :)
I would mark the stern and stem post at 1/3 of the depth of the hold.
This as the planking of floor and bilge would not exceed this height during planking according to Witsen.

Look at Ab s book of Abel Tasman where he shows this.
Thanks Maarten, yes I know. It's the kwl line in the drawing where to stop. So the sheer will be also correct. So much to keep in mind at every step, but that is the fun of this way of building. Sometimes I imagen I'm on a real build back in the 17th century ROTFROTF and then I wake up.

Abel Tasman - Ab Hoving

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Abel bilge.png
 
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In the old days they used a tool to keep the planks together. The boeiclamp is to avoid the planks to lift up when they are tightly fit together. For clamping the planks together they used a chain like shown here:

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I need something that replace this chain to keep the planks tightly together.
Something like a Japanese Jerre-joint but lighter and not so heavy.
I still got some of the heavy wood and after some sawing and drilling I got this. A L-shape piece of strong wood with a 4 mm. hole where I fit in a piece of brass pipe. so that the hole is 3 mm. where I can put in a piece of threaded rod of M3. And it works perfect. I'm waiting on a delivery of those black nuts to make them complete.

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My conclusion is, when you plan to build a ship and you decide to build it shell first. You need these tools to succeed. This works perfect.
 
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