LA SALAMANDRE, bomb ketch - POF - (CAF-models, 1/48)

Yesterday I worked a little bit more at the hawse timbers of the La Salamandre.
As you could see in my last post, I finally decided to make the timbers as prepared and proposed by the kit.
After the glue dryed I sanded the outside area and after removing from the small temporary jigs also the inside of the timbers.

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and both sides prepared

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Many Thanks for your interest........ to be continued ......
 
First of all once more many thanks for your interest, all your kind words and the likes given to my posts.
Highly appreciated..... :)

Some small progress on the La Salamandre kit built.....

I finally fixed and glued the elements of the keel together, so that the keel has now the complete length from stem to stern.
Although there are some notches in the jig in which the keel can fit in there is a small possible movement inside the jig to the left and right side of 1 or 2 mm.
Therefore it was necessary to fix the keel with some woodenstrips on both sides. Now no movement can happen and the keel is sitting correctly in the center of the jig.
Now, there are no excuses any more not to fix the frames on the keel........

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Many thanks for your interest ...... to be continued ......
 
.......
Now, there are no excuses any more not to fix the frames on the keel........
....

I found some excuses.......

Yesterday my quality manager decided to make a last and final dry fit of all frames, the hawse pieces and the keelson elements on top of the keel.......
....... also because of the words from @Mike41 in his post, that dry-fitting checks should be done.......

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So far so good -> it is looking good from the top -> Certified for final glue

Ok, now the check with the view @Maarten likes -> Dockyard-view
BTW: I like this also very much (and I am realy happy, that I did not close this part of the jig
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OK! It is looking good also with the view towards the stern and stem -> Certified for final glue

and now the side views checking the frames on top of keel
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Upps - there is a gap

-> further check from the other side necessary ->
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The gaps are not acceptable - So 3 or 4 frames have to be still slightly adjusted -> No certification given
So, at the end it was good, that the chief inspector made once more a final check

Many thanks for your interest ...... to be continued ......
 
I had some gaps too with the last few ribs joining the keel. Not a big problem and easily adjusted.
 
G'day Uwe
Ah memattie! It pays to be fussy. Nice catch there, and your quality control officer should get a pay raise for that discovery.
Keep up the good work.
Are you going to use 'chair doctor' pva glue, so you don't have to remove the dry fitted frames. Just inject the glue into the joints and the frames will be rock solid.
Chair Doctor Pro.jpg
The glue is very viscous and will penetrate the gaps and swell the timbers for a very tight and secure fit.
I've used it and it's brilliant.
Happymodeling mate
Greg
 
G'day Uwe
Ah memattie! It pays to be fussy. Nice catch there, and your quality control officer should get a pay raise for that discovery.
Keep up the good work.
Are you going to use 'chair doctor' pva glue, so you don't have to remove the dry fitted frames. Just inject the glue into the joints and the frames will be rock solid.

The glue is very viscous and will penetrate the gaps and swell the timbers for a very tight and secure fit.
I've used it and it's brilliant.
Happymodeling mate
Greg

Thank you for your kind words......Never tried this glue, but maybe I order one and give it a try.
But not for this situation.....the frames are still dry and are laying only on top of the keel, so easy to adjust slightly the foot of the frame, that it fits into the gap of the keel.....
Your proposed glue is swelling the timber and afterwards hardening, so I think I have to try it first not at the model, but with some scrap wood......
 
Thank you for your kind words......Never tried this glue, but maybe I order one and give it a try.
But not for this situation.....the frames are still dry and are laying only on top of the keel, so easy to adjust slightly the foot of the frame, that it fits into the gap of the keel.....
Your proposed glue is swelling the timber and afterwards hardening, so I think I have to try it first not at the model, but with some scrap wood......
Its swell the wood ever so lightly, just enough to make it tight.
I have never used it on the dry mounted bulkheads, but I was told by Janos, he has and he recommended it to me.
I'll be using it on my RC in the very near future.
Havagooday
Greg
 
G'day Uwe
Ah memattie! It pays to be fussy. Nice catch there, and your quality control officer should get a pay raise for that discovery.
Keep up the good work.
Are you going to use 'chair doctor' pva glue, so you don't have to remove the dry fitted frames. Just inject the glue into the joints and the frames will be rock solid.
View attachment 43477
The glue is very viscous and will penetrate the gaps and swell the timbers for a very tight and secure fit.
I've used it and it's brilliant.
Happymodeling mate
Greg

Hallo Greg,
I ordered yesterday a bottle (unfortunately not available here in Austria at normal shops)- I will give it a try ..... thanks for the hint
 
The time starts to make permanent connections on my La Salamandre POF kit :cool:

Yesterday I finaly started to fix the frames on the keel.
Where to start? I made the decision to start at the center, where I can control the fit most easiest.
I addition to the wooden glue I made two wooden pins (cutted toothpicks) per frame to stabilze the frame and to produce a good connection to the keel.

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After drying of the glue I can remove the ends of the pins and the rest of glue......everything will be later on covered with the keelson.

Many Thanks for your interest....... to be continued
 
I made the decision to start at the center, where I can control the fit most easiest.

G'day Uwe
If I was doing this build, not as good as yours though, I would start at midship and place one frame for and aft, until they are placed.
Good decision to star there as well.
She's looking great mate.
Happymodeling
Greg
 
I started my glueing first with sternpost and attached ribs 44/45 then the middle with ribs 20, 21 and 22 and then worked from the back from rib 44 till rib 22, then worked from rib 20 to rib 1 in sequence. Worked out well but what ever is most comfortable with the builder is OK. Though the pegs are not mentioned in the instructions I believe they are desirable especially with the rear ribs which are not notched. Uwek work is looking excellent and stronger than mine as I used only one peg per frame.
 
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Great work, and lovely ship.

I think that that chair doctor glue is an active aliphatic, and if so there are other options. It works almost as cyano. I use MD brand and works very well.

JL
 
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Many thanks for your all kind words and helpfull comments. As well many thanks for your likes for my building log of the La Salamandre built.

Due to the fact, that I do not have, and did not find a drill which is long enough to drill vertical I had to change the technique for the frame No. 43 and this will be also necessary for the frames 42 to 40. I carefully drilled in an angle from the side. For the next one I have to wait until the glue is hard enough, so the next step for today evening is the sanding of the surface of the frame

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The complete status of yesterday evening
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I have to state here, that the elements prepared by ZHL, means the keel, frames and jig are fitting very well, so that the frames are sitting now realy vertical, parallel with regular gap between the frames......The manufacturer made a very good job in the 3D-modeling and design of the kit
 
Hello Uwe,
I completely finished reading your account of the Salamandre from the beginning. It is great to see fine craftsman at work. I wish one day to be able to accomplish the same dream. I was not bored with viewing all the steps of the progression. I am glad that you take the time to perform the images of each step as you go. Again. Fantastic workmanship.

I also plan to visit ADC as time permits to view his log as well.

Donnie
 
Hello Uwe,
I completely finished reading your account of the Salamandre from the beginning. It is great to see fine craftsman at work. I wish one day to be able to accomplish the same dream. I was not bored with viewing all the steps of the progression. I am glad that you take the time to perform the images of each step as you go. Again. Fantastic workmanship.

I also plan to visit ADC as time permits to view his log as well.

Donnie
Uwek is creating such a great log that future builders will have an armchair ride for this model. For me I don’t have the patience to go into such detail. Just content to report on my progress and add bits here and there and no need to compete with what is the better. Because of this I have been working faster than Uwek but soon I am going away for over a month and no doubt Uwek will overtake me. Then I can follow him. I am looking forward to his expertise and attention to detail for the fitting out of the interior. I have now completed stage one of the build with just some finishing sanding left. I concur with Uwek of the excellent planning and design from CAFmodel for this stage of the build. This is my first POF and found few noteworthy problems in completing the hull.
 
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