Awesome work, my friend!!! I can see, you fully enjoying the build, and as the result, we enjoy your constant progress updates!
LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe
Very nice work..Meister
Many Thanks for your kind words and the likes received - highly appreciated
Going further with the wooden bulkheads and interior walls
Taking a look at the first I made - here you can see on top the template, at the bottom the laser sheet from where the separate boards were removed, and in the middle right side the prepared boards and on the left hand half side already glued together
a closer look
I am using wooden glue - Maybe you can also recognize, that I also beveled all edges of each board slightly, so get a little bit more a three-dimensional look of the finished wall, with recognizing the single board better.
I am making this fitting on top of sheet of glass, so I am sure, the parts are laying flat.
After pressing the boards together, I used a chisel scraping along the joint, to remove the squeezed glue away
I am usually preparing each wall in two half - for me it was better to handle during gluing together
and the same from the back side (not final sanded - you can see still the laser dust char)
A first test, to see how it is looking like - still the outline form was not adjusted to fit the form of the template
Going further with the wooden bulkheads and interior walls
Taking a look at the first I made - here you can see on top the template, at the bottom the laser sheet from where the separate boards were removed, and in the middle right side the prepared boards and on the left hand half side already glued together
a closer look
I am using wooden glue - Maybe you can also recognize, that I also beveled all edges of each board slightly, so get a little bit more a three-dimensional look of the finished wall, with recognizing the single board better.
I am making this fitting on top of sheet of glass, so I am sure, the parts are laying flat.
After pressing the boards together, I used a chisel scraping along the joint, to remove the squeezed glue away
I am usually preparing each wall in two half - for me it was better to handle during gluing together
and the same from the back side (not final sanded - you can see still the laser dust char)
A first test, to see how it is looking like - still the outline form was not adjusted to fit the form of the template
What to forget to show.....
I LOVE you all
I LOVE you all
Coming back to the ballast platform - I solved the "problem" with additional bearing strips, so that the cover boards can lay on top of these strips and close the platform to get an even surface
I agree, that they way @PoulD mentioned and showed in post #245 may be the correct way
I agree, that they way @PoulD mentioned and showed in post #245 may be the correct way
LE COUREUR - french Lugger 1776 - POF kit from CAF in 1:48 by Uwe
Hallo Uwe, I also do not know yet exactely in which direction I should tend, But somehow the original Le Coureur appeals to me more. I like the the Lugger rigging very much. The English Coureur is a schooner, If I'm not mistaken. No No After the british captured the Le Coureur, they made only...
shipsofscale.com
Either way, your platform is looking very good and the joinery deserves a 
Some additional work was done on the four main interior wooden walls shown in manual sketch #9
Here you can see the four elements from both sides
You can see also the sliding shutter was done
I was before a little bit skeptic, if the "sliding" will work, like CAF mentioned in sketch #10 and #11, but is really working well - so try it
Here you can see the four elements from both sides
You can see also the sliding shutter was done
I was before a little bit skeptic, if the "sliding" will work, like CAF mentioned in sketch #10 and #11, but is really working well - so try it
Uwe, that looks great and work.
@jeep : Many Thanks for your kind words
It is the big advantage of such a group build and also our main intention to help each other.
Also often there are more than one solution or construction methods possible, so we are able to share the different experiences, so modelers can decide later one, which one could fit best
Today some short impressions with the walls in place, still not finally finished
It is the big advantage of such a group build and also our main intention to help each other.
Also often there are more than one solution or construction methods possible, so we are able to share the different experiences, so modelers can decide later one, which one could fit best
Today some short impressions with the walls in place, still not finally finished
Uwe my friend. It looks very good indeed. But I have again a question. I'm at work so I do not have the drawings available and therefore I may very well be wrong but I'm thinking, could it be the platform should be apr. 2 mm closer to the bow? There are 2 reasons behind my thought:
1) Remember in your post #258 you said the the innner planking should fully cover frame 12? Later I think Chello wrote in his log that the planks was not long enough to do so. So if the platform and the bulkheads is placed like yours I assume Chello (and possibly others) will also get a gap like this:
2) Your bulkhead at the aft side of the platform seems to be located directly under a deck beam. I may be wrong but I would think such a bulkhead would be placed up against either the fore or aft side of a deck beam
I can't see how your bulkhead at the fore end of the platform is located relative to a beam (as your fore deck clamps are not in place) but if i'm right, i think it means the stern section of the inner planking should be longer than you described in post #258, (should then end 2 mm in front of frame 25)
1) Remember in your post #258 you said the the innner planking should fully cover frame 12? Later I think Chello wrote in his log that the planks was not long enough to do so. So if the platform and the bulkheads is placed like yours I assume Chello (and possibly others) will also get a gap like this:
2) Your bulkhead at the aft side of the platform seems to be located directly under a deck beam. I may be wrong but I would think such a bulkhead would be placed up against either the fore or aft side of a deck beam
I can't see how your bulkhead at the fore end of the platform is located relative to a beam (as your fore deck clamps are not in place) but if i'm right, i think it means the stern section of the inner planking should be longer than you described in post #258, (should then end 2 mm in front of frame 25)
You are absolutely correct
-> I put the parts only dry inside, not 100% accurate at the correct places and axis
So there can be several mm at the wrong place
Only to get an impression, and definitely not as a target to achieve
Wery impressive, my friend! Clean and accurate. Did you chamber (edge) individual planks on the wall? It does look prominent. If yes, what tool do you use? Also, did you 'blacken' the edges of the plank?
Yes jim,
correctly seen!
I chamfered every long side of each board or plank with a sanding block - it is some work, but only with twoi three times going over the edge - It will look very good, latest when the timber is oiled - the same I made already with the interior walls of my Bonhomme Richard
-> It will look very good, latest when the timber is oiled
the same for the walls but also the deck planking I made already with the interior walls of my Bonhomme Richard
USS BONHOMME RICHARD - POF - Cross Section in Pear - 1:48 - by Uwe
Hallo Kurt, interesting question, by accident I discussed the same yesterday evening with some modeling friends here in Vienna. Originally I was too lazy during construction to cut all planks to the absolute correct length, and my intention was from the beginning, to cut / sand them to the...
shipsofscale.com
I did not blacken them
If you mean the endings of the planks? - this is not sanded and still some char from the laser
...no, I mean between the planks (like imitating the caulking), but obviously, there wasn't caulking. It just a way to repersent\emphasize the individual planks in the wall.
Many thanks for the quick response...
The contact area of two parallel planks are sanded, so no more char there...no, I mean between the planks (like imitating the caulking), but obviously, there wasn't caulking. It just a way to repersent\emphasize the individual planks in the wall.
Many thanks for the quick response...
between the planks it is really only shadow because of the chamfer - this effect I wanted to produce with the chamfer
This was exactly what I thought...looks sharp (awesome) as I have mentioned before!
Let us go further with the hull construction of the CAF Le Coureur
Finally I installed the second row of deck clamps parts 2A-1, 2A-2 and 2A-3, once more with some watering before, to get the timber in form
With all installed deck clamps from bow to stern, the framing on top of the keel and fixed keelson and the installed inner planking, the complete hull should be stiff enough to move it out of the jig .....
Now or later ?
Should I go further with the outside planking? Than I have to remove it from the jig.....
Or is it better to leave it inside the jig and go further with the interior works ......
This will be my main question during the coming weekend
Finally I installed the second row of deck clamps parts 2A-1, 2A-2 and 2A-3, once more with some watering before, to get the timber in form
With all installed deck clamps from bow to stern, the framing on top of the keel and fixed keelson and the installed inner planking, the complete hull should be stiff enough to move it out of the jig .....
Now or later ?
Should I go further with the outside planking? Than I have to remove it from the jig.....
Or is it better to leave it inside the jig and go further with the interior works ......
This will be my main question during the coming weekend
I left still the hull inside the jig, I will go in moment further with the interior work of the Le Coureur from CAF as much as possible
In order to get the correct place and location of the interior walls it is necessary to adjust and dryfit all the deck beams.
With this it will be possible to check the correct place of each individual wall /bulkhead
as usual here the sketches from the manual with the beams and their part numbers
Also visible are the carlings so the orientation of the beams (prepared notches fore or aft) should be checked with this sketch
All the deck beams are cnc prepared, so no char removing necessary - and all necessary notches are already well prepared
Here you can see the beams next to the stern laying unprepared next to the notches of the clamps
and now all the beams sitting on the correct place and height
and this has to be done all over the ships length
all beams in place
Important is definitely, that the clamps are installed on the correct height and location - so definitely use the measurement sticks to define the correct location of the clamps
In order to get the correct place and location of the interior walls it is necessary to adjust and dryfit all the deck beams.
With this it will be possible to check the correct place of each individual wall /bulkhead
as usual here the sketches from the manual with the beams and their part numbers
Also visible are the carlings so the orientation of the beams (prepared notches fore or aft) should be checked with this sketch
All the deck beams are cnc prepared, so no char removing necessary - and all necessary notches are already well prepared
Here you can see the beams next to the stern laying unprepared next to the notches of the clamps
and now all the beams sitting on the correct place and height
and this has to be done all over the ships length
all beams in place
Important is definitely, that the clamps are installed on the correct height and location - so definitely use the measurement sticks to define the correct location of the clamps